360 Street/Strip Cam?

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CluelessMopar

CluelessMopar

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Hey guys!

Any suggestions on a solid performing street/strip cam for a Mopar 360? The 360 is out of a 76 motorhome and is mostly stock other than a Holley Sniper EFI & Hyperspark setup I've added.

When I do a cam swap I was also going to do a Air Gap intake. Is there value in this for a street car? Or should I stick with my dual plane intake? My end goal is to have a naturally aspirated 360 running in the mid-high 11's that's still street drivable. Is this achievable or should I be focusing on either strip performance or street performance?

Picture for attention...

Thanks!

20211023_160836.jpg
 
Without a overhaul and some pistons that make compression, you need to watch what cam you use.
 
You're not going to run 11s with a stock engine with a cam and intake.
 
toolmanmike said:
Without a overhaul and some pistons that make compression, you need to watch what cam you use.
Click to expand...

I'm almost wondering if it would be best to buy a block, get it machined, and slowly start to build it up. I guess adding a cam to a stock engine might do more harm than good. Would there be an option for a mild cam that's better than stock then?
 
CluelessMopar said:
I'm almost wondering if it would be best to buy a block, get it machined, and slowly start to build it up. I guess adding a cam to a stock engine might do more harm than good. Would there be an option for a mild cam that's better than stock then?
Click to expand...
Just grab this now:

ATK High Performance Engines SP61 ATK High Performance Chrysler 408 A Stroker Short Blocks | Summit Racing

before it’s gone and you have to wait till who knows how long for a similar option (I’d have said to get a Blueprint stroker short block but they aren’t offering those atm) and build times are really unknown with parts availability issues for all.
 
12many said:
Just grab this now:

ATK High Performance Engines SP61 ATK High Performance Chrysler 408 A Stroker Short Blocks | Summit Racing

before it’s gone and you have to wait till who knows how long for a similar option (I’d have said to get a Blueprint stroker short block but they aren’t offering those atm) and build times are really unknown with parts availability issues for all.
Click to expand...

That is a good buy.

Just know that is made from a Magnum block and how the block oils the heads can dictate what heads you can use. Early Magnum blocks can use both LA and Magnum heads, later ones only Magnum unless you modify the block.

So how much strip to street? There are rules to running that fast at the track, plus the supporting pats to do so like chassis stiffening, traction, safty equipment, upgraded trans and converter to match, gears, etc. This is the time to be honest about how your going to use the car as the wrong direction may send you father than you planned to go.
 
CluelessMopar said:
Hey guys!

Any suggestions on a solid performing street/strip cam for a Mopar 360? The 360 is out of a 76 motorhome and is mostly stock other than a Holley Sniper EFI & Hyperspark setup I've added.

When I do a cam swap I was also going to do a Air Gap intake. Is there value in this for a street car? Or should I stick with my dual plane intake? My end goal is to have a naturally aspirated 360 running in the mid-high 11's that's still street drivable. Is this achievable or should I be focusing on either strip performance or street performance?

Picture for attention...

Thanks!

View attachment 1715810529
Click to expand...
The air gap intake is a dual plane intake.
 
dano said:
That is a good buy.

Just know that is made from a Magnum block and how the block oils the heads can dictate what heads you can use. Early Magnum blocks can use both LA and Magnum heads, later ones only Magnum unless you modify the block.
Click to expand...

I'd probably go Edelbrock or Trick Flow heads one I get that far. I've heard quite a bit about Magnum heads cracking unfortunately.
 
12many said:
Just grab this now:

ATK High Performance Engines SP61 ATK High Performance Chrysler 408 A Stroker Short Blocks | Summit Racing

before it’s gone and you have to wait till who knows how long for a similar option (I’d have said to get a Blueprint stroker short block but they aren’t offering those atm) and build times are really unknown with parts availability issues for all.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately $2,600 isn't in the current budget for me :( I have too many other things to get fixed on my Dart
 
CluelessMopar said:
At the moment that's fully correct. But it's the direction I'm hopefully traveling towards with possibly a rebuild & heads.
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Then I'm unclear on your question. You say you want a cam recommendation to help run 11s and you're fully aware the rest of your engine isn't capable. So then clear it up for me. Do you want to put a cam in it now that will be capable of 11s once the rest matches it, or do you want a cam to match the combo you have now? What are you wanting here?
 
Ok then, all it takes is money.
But from what I remember, when you break into the 11s, the cost of the bragging rights goes up exponentially. For instance, right away you gotta cage it.
CluelessMopar said:
Is this achievable or should I be focusing on either strip performance or street performance?
Click to expand...
Is it doable? Yes
but; 11s on motor is not cheap. To go 11s with street suspension/street gearing, you probably should consider a big block. Maybe consider high 12s; it's waaay cheaper, and on the street is same tire-smoking fun.
IMO:
Forget camming the 8/1 360, with a cam to go 11s, and then drive it on the street; the low-rpm power will be weak, and you will need to cough up additional money for a good hi-stall TC, and probably gears as well.
But if you absolutely have to have a cam; at least make it a solid-lifter cam.
So then, with a Normally-aspirated low-compression 360, I think you will have to chose one or the other, else it will do neither very well.

EDIT
But if you want to do both;
Put some worked alloy heads on it, and bump the compression up to 185psi or more with a fast-rate cam of about 244/250@.050, and you should be there.
Don't forget all the usual upgrades including, but not limited to;
a trans and TC that can take it/driveshaft/rear end/gears/tubs/tires/cage/safety; and
the support works like; ignition/fuel-supply/and cooling system; plus
you still gotta slow the beast down at the big end, and turn it around.
I don't think $20,000 Canadian would cover it, but it will depend on what you start with.
But that combo will NOT like to cruise the hiway without an overdrive, and the engine will suck gas bigtime, and so, the car will probably be parked in your carport for most of the time. How much is an overdrive? meh maybe another $3500 installed.

(IDK what 20k Canadian converts to, guessing maybe 14000USd?)
 
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RustyRatRod said:
Then I'm unclear on your question. You say you want a cam recommendation to help run 11s and you're fully aware the rest of your engine isn't capable. So then clear it up for me. Do you want to put a cam in it now that will be capable of 11s once the rest matches it, or do you want a cam to match the combo you have now? What are you wanting here?
Click to expand...

I guess I was hoping there was a best of both worlds here. A cam I could install now, and to be re-used down the road if/when I plan on doing an engine rebuild. Ultimately I am probably misunderstanding how the rest of the drivetrain will need to function when adding more compression/bigger cam.
 
The stock 68 4 speed 340 cam will work real nice, good power and low speed manners.
 
CluelessMopar said:
Unfortunately $2,600 isn't in the current budget for me :( I have too many other things to get fixed on my Dart
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I hear ya! It will cost more (in this case going stroker) as an assembly, but when you factor in acquiring all the parts and labor, traipsing around to machine shops, cleaning etc and now possible wait time (supply issues if applicable) to put together something similar it’s worth it “if it’s in the budget” to begin with:)
 
mopowers said:
What does the combo run now?
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I'm guestimating 15's-16's. But that's because I haven't yet swapped my rear out. I have a 8 3/4 with 355's that I need to take the time to install in the next few weeks.
12many said:
I hear ya! It will cost more (in this case going stroker) as an assembly, but when you factor in acquiring all the parts and labor, traipsing around to machine shops, cleaning etc and now possible wait time (supply issues if applicable) to put together something similar it’s worth it “if it’s in the budget” to begin with:)
Click to expand...
I don't think you're wrong at all. It's cheaper than getting a stroker kit & going to a machine shop. The short block might have to be something I consider. Appreciate the suggestion!
 
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