4 speed clutch replacement

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JamesRR

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I have a 1974 Duster 360 with a 4 speed and the clutch is shot. I was looking up replacement clutches online and there seem to be quite a few variations due to spline count and fly wheel tooth count. Anybody know what I need most likely? The car is original stock. Wanted to get the parts ordered before dropping the trans. Please let me know. Anything helps.

James :burnout:
 
I would go to Rock Auto or Summit and enter your vehicle specifications. That will thin out the variations in the parts you need. Then, knowing all of the specifications for the parts you need, you can order the parts you need (Don't necessarily need to order from that website).

If the parts are all stock, you should need a 10.5", 23 spline clutch. While you're in there, I would replace the throwout bearing (Cheap insurance).

You may be able to have your flywheel resurfaced if it's not too damaged. Heck, You may not need to change it at all. Has the clutch been slipping a lot? You could always order one and have it on hand, just in case you do need a new one while you're doing the job. You will need a 130 tooth flywheel for a stock 360 (I believe all small blocks with a 10.5" clutch used the 130-tooth count flywheel).

-Mike
 
I would go to Rock Auto or Summit and enter your vehicle specifications. That will thin out the variations in the parts you need. Then, knowing all of the specifications for the parts you need, you can order the parts you need (Don't necessarily need to order from that website).

If the parts are all stock, you should need a 10.5", 23 spline clutch. While you're in there, I would replace the throwout bearing (Cheap insurance).

You may be able to have your flywheel resurfaced if it's not too damaged. Heck, You may not need to change it at all. Has the clutch been slipping a lot? You could always order one and have it on hand, just in case you do need a new one while you're doing the job. You will need a 130 tooth flywheel for a stock 360 (I believe all small blocks with a 10.5" clutch used the 130-tooth count flywheel).

-Mike

So I started in on this yesterday. Got the trans out of the bottom. Now have no room to get the last few bolts off of the bell housing. Do most people have the move the engine forward to access them? Seems pretty much impossible to get to those bolts. Thanks.

James
 
The engine will tilt back towards the firewall without the trans and the trans mount supporting it. Jack up the back of the engine and support it under the oil pan to make it level.
Why are you removing the bell housing?
The clutch and flywheel removal can be done without removing it.
 
So I started in on this yesterday. Got the trans out of the bottom. Now have no room to get the last few bolts off of the bell housing. Do most people have the move the engine forward to access them? Seems pretty much impossible to get to those bolts. Thanks.

James

The last time I pulled the bell housing, I remember I did have to access some of the bolts from the top. I probably had it a lot easier since I have manual brakes and my hood was off. I didn't have any problems accessing any of the bolts. I think you can fit a 3/8" ratchet with a socket on the bell-housing bolt heads by sliding it between the engine and the firewall. If not, a box end wrench should fit back there. It may take a while, but they'll come off.

Let me know if you have any other issues.

-Mike

PS- Make sure you put the clutch on facing the correct way. If you put it on backwards, it WILL create an issue and cause some damage. Ask me how I know...
 
The engine will tilt back towards the firewall without the trans and the trans mount supporting it. Jack up the back of the engine and support it under the oil pan to make it level.
Why are you removing the bell housing?
The clutch and flywheel removal can be done without removing it.

He makes a good point. The last time I pulled my clutch and flywheel assembly out (because, ya know, the effing clutch was on backwards!!! :banghead: )I just pulled the tranny and unbolted the flywheel from the crank. The whole assembly will slide out the bottom of the bellhousing, and this saves a lot of time.

-Mike
 
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