4 speed hump/swap question

-

BigBlockMopar28

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
382
Reaction score
85
Location
Corbin, KY
Im leaning towards a 4 speed on my project, and ive been reading swap threads and articles and such. Just wondering about the 4 speed hump. My far was a column shift 3 speed, so it doesnt have one. As far as i can tell (noob warning) the clearance that a 4 speed hump allows is for the shifter and such, not the actual transmission housing. If that is true, do i NEED the hump for a 4 speed? Not saying i would hack up my floor, just a hypothetical question. Lol, thanks
 
Im leaning towards a 4 speed on my project, and ive been reading swap threads and articles and such. Just wondering about the 4 speed hump. My far was a column shift 3 speed, so it doesnt have one. As far as i can tell (noob warning) the clearance that a 4 speed hump allows is for the shifter and such, not the actual transmission housing. If that is true, do i NEED the hump for a 4 speed? Not saying i would hack up my floor, just a hypothetical question. Lol, thanks
You have to have the hump, as that houses the shifter.
 
The 4 speed would clear fine without the hump but you wouldn't be able to install
the shifter without it. Are you planning a 4 speed on the column:lol:
 
trust me, you need the hump - when we got into my 'Cuda we found it was 4-through-the-floor - correct carpet but with the shifter rods running between 2 holes in the tunnel, under the carpet - what a mess!
 
You need the hump, and you wouldn't be "hacking up" the floorboard and different than ma mopar did when she made 4 speeds. You'll actually take your time and do a good job.
 
Hypothetically speaking,
you could install a long-tail tranny and put the shifter way at the back and up high,on a custom mount, putting the top bolt in from the cabin side, like I did. This requires no hump. But then you have to connect the shifter to the tranny.....I think it could be done without the hump, but you would probably still need to split open the tunnel a bit, for rod clearance. With the shifter moved back,waaay behind the cross-member,and over to the right a tad,there is plenty of room to set the gate up.
Of course, without the hump, there is no good place to mount the boot/floor-seal.
I suppose you could hide all that with a console, bringing the stick up through the storage compartment.
I really like my relocated shifter.
But if you don't have buckets this won't work anyway.
For a shifter in the factory location, the floor-hump is the way to go, plus the new carpet is designed for it.
 
Alright, one more question lol. So HYPOTHETICALLY (doesn't mean i would do it), is the hump only for covering the shifter and making it look nice and all that, or would the floor be weakened if there was a hole where the hump would be? I know that there has to be clearance for the shifter and the shifter rods (hence the nessecary cutting in the tunnel), im just wondering if the hump is just for looks or also the integrity of the floor. Thanks
 
I'm sure you could just cut a hole where the shifter comes out but you'll find you won't have any room for linkage LOL
 
As far as structural Integrity goes my hump is just barely screwed on there. It's in a race car so it makes it easy to remove the transmission if I can take the hump off quick and easily to get to the upper transmission bolts. Instead of crawling under and trying to use swivels I could just sit in the driver seat and undo my transmission.
 
used humps are not that expensive, just the friggin postage!! (unless you buy from a person that thinks these used rust humps are gold plated! ) ha
 
Im leaning towards a 4 speed on my project, and ive been reading swap threads and articles and such. Just wondering about the 4 speed hump. My far was a column shift 3 speed, so it doesnt have one. As far as i can tell (noob warning) the clearance that a 4 speed hump allows is for the shifter and such, not the actual transmission housing. If that is true, do i NEED the hump for a 4 speed? Not saying i would hack up my floor, just a hypothetical question. Lol, thanks
Hypothetically speaking;
You might be able to hook the column shifter to the 4-gear; but you'd have to do something else for reverse....... that probably involves going thru the floor........lol.
The 2-3 shift would still suck.
You might have to hook the rods up in a creative manner tho, probably before the rear cross-member got installed, and hook it to the column last. But then you would still need to solve the neutral-gate adjustment. I think that could be done with custom turnbuckle adjusters. And reverse could be a solenoid or cable deal.
I think you would want some custom HD rods tho, cuz the originals are like spaghetti.
But you know, I was thinking; if you are a streeter, you could gear the car to rev out in second at 60ish, And then you would only need to shift 2-3 occasionally under light duty application. And so the fact that the 2-3 sux would not be as aggravating.
Another idea is if you had an engine with a mega powerband, you could use the A833od, and the 2-3 is actually into direct, so then you would not be going there nearly as often. Just don't gear this one the same as the regular 2.66 low box!
If you went with the od box, a turbo would pretty much override the 2-3 sux shift
 
I was going to put a four-speed in my car, but I have a handicap issue that has gotten progressively worse since I started my project. I don't know how long after I finish my project I will be able to drive a 4spd. So I changed directions to automatic. I have a brand-new AMD hump that was welded in, but then cut back out. I cut it to the outside edges of the piece, so in spots there are parts of my floor still attached. They are 160 from AMD plus shipping, I'll take 120 + if you want it. Shipping shouldn't be bad from Virginia, it's light.

A big hole in your floor to accommodate a shifter would wreak havoc on your carpet if you ever drove in the rain. Plus there's the noise and fumes issue.
 
Rusty Rat Rod must have missed this thread, otherwise ..........
Have no fear, J par is here!
To hump or not to hump, that is the question?......Rimshot
Humping got us here in the first place...... rimshot
You can't get a pistol grip without doing some humping.......rimshot
 
Put the hump in it and move on!
 
Well I'll tell you my experience with this:
When I bought my 67 Barracuda some previous owner moved the 3 speed manual from the column to the floor without putting in a floor hump. They found out that the shifter mechanism would not clear the transmission and torsion bar cross members, so they notched the cross members so it would clear. Now I'm sourcing parts to fix it when I put my 4 speed in.

IMG_20150731_1937476_rewind.jpg
 
What did they suppose would happen when the crossmember snapped right at that cut? Wow, some people are total morons! You are lucky to have found that mess before it caused even more damage.
 
Alright, one more question lol. So HYPOTHETICALLY (doesn't mean i would do it), is the hump only for covering the shifter and making it look nice and all that, or would the floor be weakened if there was a hole where the hump would be? I know that there has to be clearance for the shifter and the shifter rods (hence the nessecary cutting in the tunnel), im just wondering if the hump is just for looks or also the integrity of the floor. Thanks

Since the floor is spot welded to the trans cross member, the body will lose some of its strength when cut for the hump, very little though, but one can compensate for this by boxing the cross member like you see in the pic. Also hump when welded to the floor, will add to the over all strength of the body.
FABO.jpg
 
In "Doctor Strangelove, Major Kong, after getting the "Go Code" states "Let's get this thing on the hump, we've got some flying to do"
 
-
Back
Top