4 speed swap

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1973dusterkid

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Ok so I finely go most of the part t do a 4 speed swap so I guess I will do a thread.

What I have

71 833 trans
Pedal setup form 71 340 Duster
Old Clutch and Press Plate (Going to be rebuilt)
Shiter band new rebuilt from yearone
Shifter Linkges
BellHousing
Cluch Fork
Dust Shild
Floor Hump
Z bar
Yoke

What I know I need
Sifter boot
Throw out bearing
Rebuild clutch/press plate ($100)
Shoftin driveshaft



Some pics


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Best change you can make is to switch to a 4 speed set up.

1)I don't see the bracket that mounts to your frame for the z-bar to pivit off of.

2)You will need a pilot bushing for your crank.You can get one from brewers.

3)Kinda hard to tell from the pictures but you might need the return spring
for your clutch pedal.

4)Step up and get a new hay's 10.5 clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing,rebuilt's don't work.
 
Best change you can make is to switch to a 4 speed set up.

1)I don't see the bracket that mounts to your frame for the z-bar to pivit off of.

2)You will need a pilot bushing for your crank.You can get one from brewers.

3)Kinda hard to tell from the pictures but you might need the return spring
for your clutch pedal.

4)Step up and get a new hay's 10.5 clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing,rebuilt's don't work.


Like this
 
Is that picture of the 4-speed hump mirrored? Or am I just looking at it wrong? Or is that some kind of special passenger side mount?

I don't get it...
 
Is that picture of the 4-speed hump mirrored? Or am I just looking at it wrong? Or is that some kind of special passenger side mount?

I don't get it...

Visually turn it around. In his picture, you are looking at it from the dash's point of view.
 
flywheel bolts?
pressure plate bolts?
do you have a trans mount? the crossmember is the same but idk if the mount that bolts to the trans is.

Other things you might want to think about are neutral safety switch and the reverse lights. don't forget to adjust your brake light switch when you get the pedals in.

Id say your pretty much there parts wise.
 
Make sure you have the correct bellhousing ball stud for the Z bar. I had a 67-72 ball stud on a later bell. I had a HARD time pushing/shifting with the wrong stud in. it put the Z bar way out of line. With the correct stud, made the pedal pressure half as hard.
Buy a new clutch kit. Do not waste your time trying to use the old one, even rebuilt.
 
what cudavert said! also make sure you have the correct hurst shifter adapter for 67 and later or you'll have linkage issues hitting the cross member. also what year is the gear box? could be a big or small yoke (67).
 
flywheel bolts?
pressure plate bolts?
do you have a trans mount? the crossmember is the same but idk if the mount that bolts to the trans is.

Other things you might want to think about are neutral safety switch and the reverse lights. don't forget to adjust your brake light switch when you get the pedals in.

Id say your pretty much there parts wise.


I have the bolts I know I need a mount and was planing on a new safty switch and a new brake light switch.
 
Is the pad/mount for the z-bar to frame installed on the inner fenderwell?

Rear seal cant find it Brewers has them
Trans mount Cant find will the some mount from my auto work with this swap
The auto mount is the same for the 4 spd

Will I need this http://brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PB5300 There are different diameters so you need to measure the ID of the hole. Also, you need measure the depth of the crank hole so the shaft doesn't bottom out in the crank. Mount the bell to the trans, measure the length of the shaft, then measure from the rear of the block to the depth of the crank hole.

As I mentioned earlier, mount the bell to the block and measure the runout with a dial indicator. The bell must be centered w/the crank hole.
 
Good advice right there kid, no sense in having to tear it apart again and redo it.

Or one of these. I know it cost more and I had a hard time making myself buy it, but glad I did. I will be able to remove the overcenter spring from the clutch pedal and will have to put less effort into pushing the clutch pedal.
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That their DYAD clutch? If that is, it sure is a pretty penny spent. I'm curious how it feels with the mechanical clutch linkage. Now hurry up! :D

EDIT: Whew...ran the p# and it's their dual friction. Still curious how it feels and engages.
 
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