426 Whipple Supercharged Gen3 Hemi Swap
- Thread starter 1meanfish
- Start date
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Yes, It's snug...everywhere!
I haven't even measured or tried to test fit the hood yet. I have a scoop, but that Whipple is so wide, I'm still wondering if it'll fit.
I got the tranny installed this weekend and relocated those rack and pinion brackets. Almost about down to plumbing the intercooler system, radiator, fuel lines, exhaust, etc. Hopefully things will move a little faster from here.
Making some more progress. I want to run the oil pressure sensor for the dash and came up with this idea as opposed to a tee off the one running the Holley Terminator. The alternator is in the way, but this squeezed in barely.
Also, here are the brackets that I made to relocate the rack down a touch. I lowered as minimally as I could and you can see that there is still just a little bit of clearance. Overall it dropped about 3/8”-1/2”.
I already ordered some tied rod end spacers in case the drop causes some bump steer issues. If it does, it shouldn’t take a lot to fix.
I already ordered some tied rod end spacers in case the drop causes some bump steer issues. If it does, it shouldn’t take a lot to fix.
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jbc426
Well-Known Member
I like how you think!
CudaFish1968
Well-Known Member
This is a little late. I have a early 5.7 that "shoe horned" in my barracuda. I had same problem with oil pan too. $400. later and a Kevco made to order oil pan solved my problem.
Yeah…. It’s a tight squeeze for sure. I have a power rack too so that might be making things even tighter.
The front of my oil pan is only 2” already. My easiest solution was just to cut off the old brackets, fab up some new one and drop them down just enough to get me some clearance.
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Last night I was able to get the top two bolts on the tranny installed.
Another very tight squeeze. Especially with that huge Whipple Supercharger in the way! I went from 1 -1/4” bolts to 1”. Tedious, but one more box checked.
I’m at the point where I can finish wiring up the Terminator X, run 10an PTFE fuel lines, and start buttoning things up.
Another very tight squeeze. Especially with that huge Whipple Supercharger in the way! I went from 1 -1/4” bolts to 1”. Tedious, but one more box checked.
I’m at the point where I can finish wiring up the Terminator X, run 10an PTFE fuel lines, and start buttoning things up.
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I haven’t updated lately. I haven’t had a ton of time to work on things lately either. A little here and there. But I did get the radiator/fan in, and fuel injectors, the inline flex fuel sensor and built out the fuel lines with PTFE since I want to be able to run E85 and 93.
I also got the starter wired up where the engine turns over when I turn the key. I wired up a 120amp relay, triggered by the yellow starter wire coming off the factory relay so the factory neutral safety would still work like factory. I wasn’t getting a full 12v at the solenoid. But now with this set up, it does.
I’m pretty close to being able to fire it up. I was hoping to have it running by now.
But been busy with other things lately. Hoping I can get out in the garage and get some work done this weekend.
I need to finish fabricating a bracket for the drive by wire has pedal next. And wire up relays to the Terminator-X/electric fans
I’m pretty close to being able to fire it up. I was hoping to have it running by now.
But been busy with other things lately. Hoping I can get out in the garage and get some work done this weekend.
I need to finish fabricating a bracket for the drive by wire has pedal next. And wire up relays to the Terminator-X/electric fans
Missed this comment, i have been looking at those covers but thought they may be taller and make things harder than it already is haha. Once it all fits and working i may use those covers as they look so much better
I am going to run the terminator x as well, does the harness have a bulk head connector or do you have to take the harness off the motor to be able to remove motor? Where did you enter the fire wall with the loom?
Also i notice you look to have decent clearance from booster to valve cover what booster kit and size did you use? Ho much room do you have from booster to the valve cover as i have to have ten mm to keep my engineer happy
I bypassed the factory bulkhead connector completely when I was cleaning up the wiring. I pretty much completely rewired the entire car. Without that big square bulkhead connector there is a lot of room through the big square that’s left to run wires.
I used one of these things to clean and seal everything up. I’ll try to take a pic of it and post it. It’s still pretty stuffed, even through this thing. But to me it was a lot better than drilling more holes. Plus, it eliminate the PIA bulkhead.
Amazon.com: MOTOQUEEN for Holley Terminator X Max Billet Aluminum Fire Wall Pass Through Raw Bracket : Automotive
I used to run an 8” booster. This one is a 7”. Hopefully it still has the same stopping power. But it definitely down open things up a bit better.
O yep i have been looking at the same bulk head connector. I want to make the loom so you can just unplug from the bulk head and leave it all connected to the engine so its like an engine loom so to speak.
Nice build! I like how the engine bay is turning out. Very professional!
Thanks. I’ve been trying to take my time and make everything as clean as I possibly can, for a home garage project anyway…lol
Chipping away at it! I haven’t seen much written about mounting a DBW gas pedal. There is a company that makes some sort of bracket, but from what I was reading it won’t fit with the factory AC box. And it was pretty expensive for a bracket. So maybe this will help someone else on their project.
I took the factory bracket, cut off the actual pedal and fabricated my own bracket. I started by zip tying the new DBW pedal to the old bracket and adding spacers and maneuvering it around to try and get the best orientation, height and spacing between brake pedal.
Once I got about as good as I could and still work around the AC box, I welded a plate, installed rivnuts so if in the future the pedal needs to be removed or replaced, all I’ll have to do is unbolt it from the mounting plate.
I took the factory bracket, cut off the actual pedal and fabricated my own bracket. I started by zip tying the new DBW pedal to the old bracket and adding spacers and maneuvering it around to try and get the best orientation, height and spacing between brake pedal.
Once I got about as good as I could and still work around the AC box, I welded a plate, installed rivnuts so if in the future the pedal needs to be removed or replaced, all I’ll have to do is unbolt it from the mounting plate.
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The DBW pedal has a screwy curvature to it. It makes it hard to get it exactly where you want it.
I had also thought about cutting the pedal at that curvature and mounting the factory pedal to the stub that would have been left.
If this one feels weird or funny once I get it on the road. Then tha will still be plan B. But I think this set will work pretty good.
I had also thought about cutting the pedal at that curvature and mounting the factory pedal to the stub that would have been left.
If this one feels weird or funny once I get it on the road. Then tha will still be plan B. But I think this set will work pretty good.
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