fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
Lost my wifi. Sorry for multiple posts
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440... Carb or Fuel Injection?
- Thread starter 1BAD72
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fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
Are these from a 69 Chrysler A/C C body 440?
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
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threewood
Well-Known Member
It's kind of hard to take cost out of the equation. Does the price for FI include the tank? Plug and play complete? Seems to be more than $1k for a complete FI setup. Carb can be had for $400+
I would use FI over carb but until the price difference becomes close, I'll stick with the carb.
I would use FI over carb but until the price difference becomes close, I'll stick with the carb.
All depends what you're trying to do. A good race carb is at least $1000 or more and a data logger is another $500 or more. A computer controlled ignition setup can run another $500 to $1000. So if you're going to buy a race carb, computer controlled ignition and a data logger you might as well buy a Sniper kit since it will be less expensive.
If all you want is a $400 carb then buy a $400 carb. But don't compare that to a EFI system which has a lot more bells and whistles than a $400 carb.
threewood
Well-Known Member
The original question was carb or FI. Not carb with data logger and computer controled ignition or FI. If anything extra it would be an a/f meter to tune. There is still a large cost discrepancy. I'm curious if the dedicated drag racers are moving away from dominators to fuel injection.
The Holley Sniper is $999 and it comes out of the box with data logger and the ability to control the ignition. It also has the ability to run a digital dash setup, control electric fans, etc. All of that stuff is built in. If you buy a carb and then add all of that stuff you'll end up spending 3x as much money.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
.............And..........you don't HAVE to have fancy reworked "sumped" tanks, or the "fuel management" tank or whatever it's called. Mine runs a generic Walbro pump mounted on the frame close to the tank, and a home-built return line. I just flooded the tank with my CO2 bottle, and brazed a tube right into the front face of the tank. It was drained, and in the car
JeffisOld
Old, Ugly and generally Disagreeable!
to each his own, but: I don't want classic headaches!
RMS suspension and FI are in my future.
Resto-Mod!
threewood
Well-Known Member
And you still need an efi fuel tank for it, fuel pump and distributor. The $999 kits don't have that included.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I run a stock tank, w/ dual pick ups in the rear lower corners. Pump mounted like dart 273 said. The 3/8" new stock type feed line is used for my return, w/ the sock cut off, left as long as possible to prevent aeration. . You cant hear the pump when the engine is running. It is situated so the dual filters gravity feed the pump. The pump came w/ my f.inj system.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Do you have pics of your setup? Is it made specifically for the stock tank? That would be a nice alternative to buying another, more expensive tank.
famous bob
mopar misfit
When I bought the new tank, I HAD A PRO WELDER WELD TWO OCTAGON SHAPED,1/2" PIPE CAPS ON THE REAR LOWER CORNERS OF THE TANK, THAT I HAD DRILLED THE end CAP PART OUT TO THE THREAD SIZE. After ward I took a long tapered punch and drove it thru the cap, penetrating the tank until the hole was as big as the threads of the cap. I wish I had put them in a little lower tho, maybe even in the very bottom of the back corners. Obviously a person would have to take great precautions w/ a used tank , to avoid an explosion! The tank is tapered up in the rear so it shouldn`t be a problem w/ them in the very bottom
I can send phone pics to ur cell phone , but need a number.
1BAD72
Well-Known Member
Well thanks much for all of the feedback and ideas. Since my Edelbrock 1412 is working well I am going to stay with it for now. Clearly there are benefits with FI but not enough to swing me over based on how I use the car. $999 vs $700 for the 1412 plus a fuel pressure regulator with associated AN fittings and braided lines, insulated base plate, manual choke cable, 1480 calibration kit, etc. isn't that big of a difference.
Riff Raff
Well-Known Member
FI requires a computer to function. When the computer craps out how does one limp the car home or at least to safety? I'm a "worse case scenario" type of guy.
I'm certainly not going to dump on EFI. Lord knows, every modern car and truck has it. That said, my personal preference is a carburetor. I just like them still. It's really not our job to talk you into or out of anything. Go with what you want and are most comfortable with and good luck. Keep us posted.
Not much different than if your chrome box stops working. Or your ballast resistor, or coil, or ignition pickup, or alternator, etc. New cars seem to be a lot more reliable than anything the factory built in the 60's or 70's so I don't see a problem with using the new stuff on older cars. Seems like an upgrade to me.
Considering the number of newer vehicles I see every single day eclipsing 200,000 miles, that's a hard point to argue with. Nothing used to last that long without having had major overhauls and or rebuilds. Now it's nothing to see vehicles with well in excess of twice what cars used to get before it was time they met the graveyard.
I still like carburetors, though. I guess it's because I spent a lot of time in dealerships always in the role of catching work no one else wanted or could fix. I was the last stop. Seems like......at least down here the alignment guy gets all the crap nobody wants or can fix. I learned a lot, enough for me not to want EFI. I am glad others have good luck with it and I know it works well......when it works. It's just not for me.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Cnt blame u there. If I were
fast 2.0 has a limp home built into it, (supposedly) , hope I never find out !!
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