440 crank in 383 block

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dustya_383

dustya_383

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How do u guys feel about putting a 440 crank in a 383 wat does this do to the engine, increase stroke or anything of that nature?? Has anyone. Done this before?? thanks
 
alot use the 440 crank in the 400 which has larger bores...and give 451 cu inches...

the 440 crank in the 383 will give ya 426 inches plus the over bore....030 usually is about 431 ...

use the longer 440 style rods to get a light piston....
 
Don't gorget that you may have to clearance the crank to the block, and turn the 440 mains down to 383 size I believe. I may be mistaken!!
 
lo234me said:
Don't gorget that you may have to clearance the crank to the block, and turn the 440 mains down to 383 size I believe. I may be mistaken!!
Click to expand...

No mistake, that's correct. :cheers:

Either clearance the block a ton or turn down the counterweights and cut the mains from 440 size 2.75 to 400 size 2.625 IIRC
 
i run a 431. low compresion, built to run on pump gas, 11.81 112mph with stock 906 heads full exhaust, 3.73s. runs pretty good. i only did it because a shop had the crank sitting already done for a 451 that didnt get used.
 
440 crank in the 383 with 440 rods will be nice saying you have a stroker is always better
 
How much something like that usually cost in a typical machine shop?? And what exactly do you mean by clearanced?? like what needs to be. Clearanced? i wanna know what I'm talking about when I explain to someone what I need done to the engine thanks
 
dustya_383 said:
How much something like that usually cost in a typical machine shop?? And what exactly do you mean by clearanced?? like what needs to be. Clearanced? i wanna know what I'm talking about when I explain to someone what I need done to the engine thanks
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The counterweights on the 440 crank will contact the block unless you turn them down or grind the block. Turning the counterweights down is the better method as you loose rotating weight.Makes for quick revving,as do the light pistons with long rods.

451's are a killer combo.They like to rev and have tons of torque.As a real plus you get a factory rod ratio which aids durability and longevity.
 
Turning the mains down that much will go far below the factory hardening. You will need a very competent machinist that has the facilities to re-harden that crank or don't bother unless you get a kit from a reputable seller. I don't care what MM did in a magazine. That crank is being turned down 1/8"!
 
do you mean the mains on the crank??? WHich main caps do i use?? 440 caps or 383 caps??
 
i think if you make them 383 size so they fit in a 383 block i think you can use the 383 ones
 
Nobody's mentioned it yet so I may be wrong but can't you also align-bore the mains to RB size?
 
As was said, counterweights need to be reduced in diameter and main journals turned down to B wedge size. As far as the amount removed... there is no surface hardening on factory RB cranks unless it's a 426 Hemi. However, it is a lot to be done to a factory crank. It is not cost efficient IMO. Best bet is the 440Source B wedge 3.75 stroke crank. Better part, stronger, heavier (which means easier to balance with the RB rods), and drop in.
 
I read that article....Why do you guys do this to me??lol I like all those oddball engines combos that can be/have been done be it sb or bb. We have all kinds of parts other than the parts that r allready in our cars, few 383 blocks, bunch of assorted 440 cranks, rods, heads etc, and a machinist thats into building about anything lol. Damn you guys lol.
Thanks alot lol,
Jr
 
I asked about this last week.

It was 370-385 to do the grinding required on a factory 440 crank.

A new source crank is about $599

If you factory in a 440 steel crank core at roughly $100+ you are pretty close to a new one that isn't a 40 year old piece.

Yes you can line bore the B block to 440 mains. It's another expensive approach.
 
im not really sold that the source crank is better. im not saying i wouldnt buy it but in my eyes its still some foriegn junk. if you get more cubes for the same price then id go with the source crank. i guess. machinist migh tcut you a break somewhere if you are having a bunch of work done there anyway.
 
moper said:
As was said, counterweights need to be reduced in diameter and main journals turned down to B wedge size. As far as the amount removed... there is no surface hardening on factory RB cranks unless it's a 426 Hemi. However, it is a lot to be done to a factory crank. It is not cost efficient IMO. Best bet is the 440Source B wedge 3.75 stroke crank. Better part, stronger, heavier (which means easier to balance with the RB rods), and drop in.
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All true and a good point.The factory crank is also limited to about 600 h.p at the most. The 440source stuff is good,seems to be a lot of guys using thier stuff.

I dont reccomend boring the mains to the 440 size.First your losing some material in the saddle area and second,your going to a bigger bearing which will rob power from the engine.And you'll still need to turn down the counterweights on the crank.

I think the most cost effective route may be to purchase everything from 440source and have it balanced by your machinist.
 
moper said:
As far as the amount removed... there is no surface hardening on factory RB cranks unless it's a 426 Hemi.
Click to expand...

You sure about that? I've never heard of any factory never hardening their cranks.

This is right from 440 source's website. Granted they are trying to sell a product but still....

"Beware of other kits where shops grind a 440 crank down to 400 size mains after manufacturing, because doing this will grind off the nitriding (hardening.) Our cranks are manufactured at the factory with 400 size mains, and nitrated AFTER the journals are ground."
 
only downfall with source cranks are the radius make sure your machinist checks bearing fit and chamfers them.
 
There was never any nitriding on 440 cranks. 426 Hemi, and IIRC 426 Max Wedges. None on factory cranks. Nitiriding is only about .030 deep at best, so he's right about cutting past it... But the crank has to have been hardened first. Mopar never did it that I'm aware of. There's a lot more I don't know than what I do...lol Can anyone find something beyond Brandon that says that? I'll check my books tonight to make sure. Brandon's cranks need to be inspected carefully, but the cranks are better than the rods. I have yet to have a set of them that didnt need to be re-sized properly to be right. Definately watch the bearings too. You will have to chamfer them.
 
I cant see any manufacturer hardening the crank. The mains etc already ride on a soft bearing material.A hard crank might cause excessive bearing wear.
 
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