440 cylinder wall cracked

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cudascott

cudascott

It’s a sickness!
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Anyone know what would cause this crack? I think it’s has to do with the head bolt holes having oil or something in them when installed.
6D79D64C-BBAE-4E14-8302-7347915A82BF.jpeg
 
Could be. That's hydraulic pressure. That stuff don't play. That's why I always blow the head bolt holes out, even if they are not blind holes. Just good practice. Time for a sleeve.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Could be. That's hydraulic pressure. That stuff don't play. That's why I always blow the head bolt holes out, even if they are not blind holes. Just good practice. Time for a sleeve.
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I was gonna send you a pic earlier through PM but I couldn’t so I just started a thread.
 
Either way whoever done it has ruined a 69’ Hp block. What is the cost of a sleeve job these days?
 
Not too bad then I guess it’s gonna need two. #5
Is the same but not as bad but may as well be
 
Find another block. 440 blocks aren't too hard to find these days, might as well start over with something better.
 
When sleeving, the cylinders on either side of sleeve need to be checked after sleeve installed as sleeving may put them out of round.
 
R4Sedan said:
will a sleeve in a cylinder still hold up good over time?
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WE HAD A COUPLE OF WRIST PINS COME LOOSE IN THE OLD HEMI CAR BACK IN THE DAY , (5 and7) , HAD THEM SLEEVED WITH 460 FORD SLEEVES, NO OUT OF ROUND BECAUSE THEY ARE BORED AND HONED AFTER THEY WERE PRESSED IN. We did have the mains line honed and deck checked also at the time , raced for aqpprox. 10 yrs. after that , hi nickle hemi block, and hi nickle sleeves , sleeves didn`t wear any more than the block------
 
If the head bolt caused that crack. The crack probably extends to the bolt. You need to have it liquid magna-fluxed. I would look for another block.
 
Just curious. How big is the bore on that cracked block.
No evidence of a crack in the valley?
 
.30 over and no sign of a crack in the valley i can see.
I will investigate it a bit further because
i’m totally puzzled why it would crack there.
 
Sleeves are stronger than the block material. When you sleeve, it's part of a complete rebuild, you re-hone every hole to spec, unless it's some desperate "I need this cause I ain't got no money" 3rd world nonsense. It's so much cheaper to do it right the first time, instead of blowing everything up, repeatedly, and then finally doing it right, if you still have any money or salvageable bits left.

Would you like the story about the 3x blowed up AMC I've recently witnessed? Diamond is gonna send him Christmas cards. S/F....Ken M
 
I’ve looked over the valley in this block around the head bolt area and there isn’t any visible cracks.
I’m just puzzled at what would cause a crack in this area in the cylinder wall.
 
Well for all you know without dissecting it, it could be the scenario RRR gave you or a possibly a flaw in the casting making the area weak and finally letting loose. Out side the box speculation, maybe a bolt was forgotten about when the head was removed at some point. The top of the hole looks a bit suspicious (to me) compared to the others in the picture.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Is this line inside my line a crack?

View attachment 1715427491
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Damn...if there's a crack there I can't see if but if you can, I envy you your eyes!! That's pretty good seeing right there.


I've seen two things do this. A bunch of junk down in the bolt hole that wasn't tapped and blown out (seen that many times in my PER days and you can't get people to understand you need to tap every single hole anyway, let alone if you bake and blast to clean)
And a head bolt that is too long will do that. It bottoms out in the hole and you keep twisting on it and it will seperate the boss from the block like that.

I'd say stick a fork in it, it's done.
 
Ok here’s a close up of the hole even tho at this point it’s irrelevant since. There’s a big ole ugly crack in the valley so I will stick a fork in it cause it’s well done now.
0615CB4C-0D3D-441F-A7BC-3CB44E13C482.jpeg
96465D82-6217-4C87-ACB0-5CFEAA855620.jpeg
 
cudascott said:
….There’s a big ole ugly crack in the valley so I will stick a fork in it cause it’s well done now.
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A crack that size in the valley I would think would have that oil looking like a milkshake. Coolant would just leak right into the crankcase (if there was any in it). It's possible that may just be transfer from the mold. It's hard to determine from the picture.
Unfortunately the cylinder crack is your "scrap it" order IMO.
 
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