440 rear main seal... thoughts

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flathead31coupe

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I have my stroker crank installed and the rear main seal. I always am nervous when I do the rear seal. Don't want to take the engine back out to fix a leak so I decided to do this used part of an old oil pan and filled the seal end with oil over the rear seal retainer and rotated the crank a few times. I'm going to let it sit overnight thinking if it doesn't leak this way it may not leak when it's in the car. Thoughts?

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Good idea but I think you need oil pressure and the crank spinning to show it it truly leaks.
Here is what I do to check to see if everything is good.
Install the crank, lower seal and main bearings and torque everything down. Put white grease where the seal rides and turn the crank. I’m looking for a pattern that is 1/16” wide. Then I pull the crank and seal out and just put the seal in the retainer and repeat. If it is also 1/16” wide AND the upper and lower seal make contact in the SAME place on the crank you sould be good. One more thing, apply a small bead of “The right stuff” on the back side of the seals and on the seal ends where they contact each other. I also offset the seals in there saddle to make sure that there lined up as well. This is what works for me. Hope this helps.
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Patience and good prep always wins the day! Not sure why folks fret this personally!

Never have had issues.
 
Most aftermarket cranks are not knurled where the seal rides and that is a big problem. Stick cranks are not an issue but stroker cranks can be a pain. Don’t ask me why I know!!
 
Good idea but I think you need oil pressure and the crank spinning to show it it truly leaks.
Here is what I do to check to see if everything is good.
Install the crank, lower seal and main bearings and torque everything down. Put white grease where the seal rides and turn the crank. I’m looking for a pattern that is 1/16” wide. Then I pull the crank and seal out and just put the seal in the retainer and repeat. If it is also 1/16” wide AND the upper and lower seal make contact in the SAME place on the crank you sould be good. One more thing, apply a small bead of “The right stuff” on the back side of the seals and on the seal ends where they contact each other. I also offset the seals in there saddle to make sure that there lined up as well. This is what works for me. Hope this helps.
View attachment 1716048999
What do you do to correct it if it's not what you want?
 
What do you do to correct it if it's not what you want?
If I find the upper seal (block side) does not have enough “crush” you can add a shim like a strip of aluminum from a coke can works. If the lower seal does not have enough crush then I sand off some material off the cap to give it more crush.
 
crank knurled? and a good knurl, use rope. NOS asbestos for a tractor off ebay...(the seller doesn't know its asbestos, 60s freguson or ford)

or use gland packing...Gland packing Graphite shaft and stem usage (various sizes) | eBay
cheaper to buy it in bulk rather than pay $30 - $60 for 2 small pices in a parts store bag.
check max rotational speed before purchase you need the reinforced stuff.

not knurled, the oil pushing part is the profiled lip on the rubber seal

A profiled lip on a rubber seal and a GOOD knurl on the crank togteher will wear each other out.

when i can be botherd my next seal change will involve one of these viton 1 piece seals for a pontiac from here

5th product down, choose the closesest size

BOP Engineering Engine Accessories

Yes its the wrong size for most of us
but it has a split in the spring steel centre where you cut through the rubber to fit it to the motor.

if thats the case it can be shortend by pulling back the rubber and usuing a hacksaw or cut off wheel

have got one
have cut one
have checked that that pontiac V8 spins the same way, so the lines on the seal lip do infact drive oil back in and not OUT
have checked i can coil it down to an appropriate diameter for my crank 2.75 inch without the lip puckering
all good so far

i have just failed to get the motor out of the car and fit the thing

have asked the owner of the company to do some for mopars in mopar sizes and he said no. He wont sell stuff he has not tested for a motor that he knows little about.
Fair enough said I

obvioulsy you put the single split in the seal at the top.....!
initial fitment with gap at the cap for checking, then turn it round once you have put sealeant in cap and block.

you can also replicate the lines on the rubber seal in 1 place across the rear most bearing

i.e see which way the lines on the seal go and make 1 small groove in the same direction and at same angle across the upper bearing shell before the the oil hole...
if you were oil, stood on the journal you pass out of the oil hole, go on a journey right round the 2 bearings shells and just before you reach the oil hole again you hit the new groove and get slung out the front side of the bearing

minimal impact on bearing surface area but biases the oil spray from that journal away from the seal, more oil will come out the front side than the back side. which may or may not be a good thing.... how much life a seal has may be dictated by how oily it gets. i dont know....

Dave
 
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So I went out today to check on the progress to see if it leaked and sure enough it was leaking out of the rear seal not the sides so back to the drawing board lol
 
Use the billet seal unit, watch Mopar connection!
 
not sure which way to go...... i was positive it wouldnt leak lol
You may have to grind the rear main seal cap to tighten it up, if your brock was line bored and honed it might have caused it to be a loose fit
 
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If I am using a silicon/rubber seal with a crank that has knurling, I get the machine shop to remove the knurling. 0.008" is usually enough to completely remove it & leave a smooth surface.
 
If you grind the cap seal have it done on a rod grinder and it will be square for sure.
 
so i just received my new mancini rear seal retainer kit no instructions....where do i get them?
They are on their website! Likely the best kit you could have bought! Good luck! JMO!
 
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