440 swap on slant six 73 duster

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73 Duster_forever 73

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Hello, I am a 16 year old wondering everything I will need to do a 440 engine swap in a 1973 Plymouth duster that came with a slant six. I have been searching for awhile and haven’t been able to find much.
 
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Conversion mounts, BB specific 727 trans and basically upgrade everything else to deal with the extra weight & power - radiator (hose locations are different too.), brakes, torsion bars, leaf springs, driveshaft, rear end, etc. Headers can be a pain. Others with hands-on experience can offer more details.
 
Build a 383/400 with a 440 crank, it will fit much better and save a few lbs..
I would not wast my time looking for mounts and just go with a front engine plate.
 
I did mine with a Schumacher kit. If I would do it again I would go small block way easier and cheaper.
 
I have a 1973 /6 Duster I’ve installed a 440/727 into. I love A body cars with big block power. This is my 2nd bb-A body so I have a little bit of experience. That said, if you haven’t bought the big block yet and you are new to hot rodding, I build a small block/auto car first. The much lighter and smaller engine will make life much easier. However, if you are like me and have the need to do the biggest engine in the lightest car, big block Duster is super cool ! Research, research, research ! If you have any questions, feel free to ask me or any one of the other members. That’s what we are here for. (No such thing as a stupid question)

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Hello, I am a 16 year old wondering everything I will need to do a 440 engine swap in a 1973 Plymouth duster that came with a slant six. I have been searching for awhile and haven’t been able to find much.
If you are starting from scratch and do not already have the 440 I would steer you in another direction. Get a used 360 magnum motor for a couple hundred bucks and save yourself some money and headaches.
 
I have a 1973 /6 Duster I’ve installed a 440/727 into. I love A body cars with big block power. This is my 2nd bb-A body so I have a little bit of experience. That said, if you haven’t bought the big block yet and you are new to hot rodding, I build a small block/auto car first. The much lighter and smaller engine will make life much easier. However, if you are like me and have the need to do the biggest engine in the lightest car, big block Duster is super cool ! Research, research, research ! If you have any questions, feel free to ask me or any one of the other members. That’s what we are here for. (No such thing as a stupid question)

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what headers are you using?
 
I have a 1973 /6 Duster I’ve installed a 440/727 into. I love A body cars with big block power. This is my 2nd bb-A body so I have a little bit of experience. That said, if you haven’t bought the big block yet and you are new to hot rodding, I build a small block/auto car first. The much lighter and smaller engine will make life much easier. However, if you are like me and have the need to do the biggest engine in the lightest car, big block Duster is super cool ! Research, research, research ! If you have any questions, feel free to ask me or any one of the other members. That’s what we are here for. (No such thing as a stupid question)

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NO offense but he already did ask the question. Why don't you spend 10 min and post a paragraph on everything needed and what you have to do to swap from slant 6 to 440. Like motor mounts, headers, steering box, k-member mods, etc. Its really not that hard to write what you have done and your experience.
 
Start with a mild big block. Easier to add power as you add years of driving experience. The placement of the engine starts with the transmission mount. If you don't already know, Mopars have the engine offset to the passenger side. Use the same offset you measure at the trans mount and use that for the front of the engine. Crank snout should be about 5-1/2" above the lip of the k-member. You can make mounts or a motor plate from there. Once one thing is done you will have more questions. Keep on asking.
 
Looks like Mancini makes inline 6 to BB motor mounts. You just have to notch the k member to clear the oil filter housing
 
I used a motor plate from arengineering. And expensive tti headers. You may be able to use 62-65 b body log looking manifolds. They exit to the very back. I used them on my dakota and they should squeeze in. Dont take that as gospel. If you get some 73+ spool mounts and put them on the engine drop it close. Trans mount should keep you close. Try to keep the steering column in or nearby so you don’t have to run into that later. Have the bare kmember close. See what needs to be cut off. Whatever may interfere. Once you like where the motor lies. Tack the new mounts, box them in. Make it nice, get the right oil pan and steering linkages for bb. I had to do alot of pounding on new expensive parts for my first bb a body
 
I used a motor plate from arengineering. And expensive tti headers. You may be able to use 62-65 b body log looking manifolds. They exit to the very back. I used them on my dakota and they should squeeze in. Dont take that as gospel. If you get some 73+ spool mounts and put them on the engine drop it close. Trans mount should keep you close. Try to keep the steering column in or nearby so you don’t have to run into that later. Have the bare kmember close. See what needs to be cut off. Whatever may interfere. Once you like where the motor lies. Tack the new mounts, box them in. Make it nice, get the right oil pan and steering linkages for bb. I had to do alot of pounding on new expensive parts for my first bb a body

Rear dump logs won't fit. the right side hits the firewall before you even get close to having the engine in place.
 
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