[FOR SALE] 5.2 5.9 magnum EFI plug and play harnesses

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393foureyedfox

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I make 5.2/5.9 Magnum retrofit plug and play wiring harnesses. Drop in your engine, plug the harness in to all the sensors and computer, and splice a half dozen wires into your car, and fire it up. Instructions are included. Rear the ebay listing for more details. Buy them directly from me for $350 plus $15 shipping ( i avoid the seller fees = you get them cheaper)


any questions, feel free to ask!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261086266223?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649
 
Looks good. I thought the 5.2/5.9's used a crank position sensor for the electronic ignition? How is this handled if i were to use a 4 speed?
 
it will work fine with a 4 speed. The way I wire it, the computer has no control over, and needs no inputs form, the transmission EXCEPT the neutral safety switch. All the neutral safety switch does is grounds the circuit when in N or Park, and allows the starter relay to then become active. If running a 4 speed, all you have to do is take the center wire from the neural safety switch plug and either ground it permanently ( the computer thinks it is always in park/neutral) OR do it the right way and run that wire up to the clutch pedal safety switch, so the car will only start when the clutch pedal is depressed, just like factory.

the only other wiring going to the transmission is the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), but that is not necessary to use, you can leave it unplugged. It is only required if 1), you are running an electronic speedometer, or 2), you want to at some point wire cruise control back into the harness. Other than that, leave it unplugged and run your original cable driven speedometer instead.

you don't need a manual trans specific computer, any dakota/ram/van 92-95 computer will work fine. They all use different color wiring in the harness, but the PCM pinout is the same.

any more questions, feel free to ask!


Doug
 
sorry, i overlooked half of your question. the computer does require a crank sensor, which mounts between the block and transmission using two bolts on the block. To make this work with a 4 speed you would have to use a flywheel made for a dodge truck with a magnum engine, you can't use an LA flywheel. You'd have to use a magnum flywheel anyway though, as the balance is a bit different. A factory magnum flywheel is 143 tooth, so you'd need to make sure your bellhousing can handle a 143 tooth flywheel. that's where it can get tricky. I am not aware of (but that doesnt mean it doesnt exist) a small block 143 tooth bellhousing. I believe Lakewood make SFI approved ones, but quit last year, so youd be left to old stock or used ones. Other ideas I have heard guys do (but havent seen it personally) is to take the 143 tooth flywheel to a machine shop and have them lathe the ring gear off and weld on a 130 tooth gear. I've seen that info online, but never in person. I guess you could also take a MP magnum flywheel to your machine shop and have them cut the crank sensor "windows" into it.


so the answer is....maybe

the computer, engine, and harness don't care what transmission youre using. the hangup is finding a small block bellhousing that can accomodate a 143 tooth flywheel. I'll look into it more and get back....

thanks!
 
seems like a GREAT product: innovative, useful, and affordable!!! Wish i was doing a magnum swap lol. Are these only for 95 down motors because of 96+ OBDII stuff?
 
the point was to keep it simple, and all factory. It uses all factory sensors, computer, etc....with the malfunction light I keep wired in, you can do the 3 flip key test and get the codes from the computer just like if you were in a 95 dodge truck. the self test connector remains wired in for diagnostic computers. you just pull a magnum setup out of a 92-95 dodge truck or van, drop it in your car, plug my harness in and make a few connections and drive it. no aftermarket crap, no expensive stuff. junkyards are full of magnums. For a nice cruiser or a mild street toy, this is all you need. You start wanting 400+hp, THEN you can go spend a couple grand on some aftermarket system, but for most people this is a fantastic low-buck upgrade. I gained a lot more power over my original 318-2bl, AND get right at 20mpg in a 4000lb Fury without even using the overdrive. it's win-win.
 
Yes, it is for 92-95 only. I have not yet attempted to try a 96-up setup. The engine on my test stand, where every harness is tested on a running motor before being sold, is a 95. I'd need a whole other setup on my stand before i can try the 96 setup.
 
I was under the impression that the ECU was pretty year specific. I know the harnesses are different between a '93 and '94, but I can't remember if the ECU was different.

Do you build them for a certain year? How do you deal with that?
 
DionR said:
I was under the impression that the ECU was pretty year specific. I know the harnesses are different between a '93 and '94, but I can't remember if the ECU was different.

Do you build them for a certain year? How do you deal with that?
Click to expand...


there different from year to year and there also different for computers meant for standard transmissions
 
To recap:
1) you need the crank trigger to operate the stock ECU which means that you need to use the tranny that came with the magnum or install the crank trigger setup the ECU is looking for
2) The discussion above about difference between balances between magnum/LA are relevant to the 5.9 not the 5.2. Believe that the 5.2L is internally balanced so that any LA tranny setup (auto or manual, big or small flywheel) should work.

Bottom Line: to use this harness, you must have have the correct crank signal.
 
Patrick said:
To recap:
1) you need the crank trigger to operate the stock ECU which means that you need to use the tranny that came with the magnum or install the crank trigger setup the ECU is looking for
2) The discussion above about difference between balances between magnum/LA are relevant to the 5.9 not the 5.2. Believe that the 5.2L is internally balanced so that any LA tranny setup (auto or manual, big or small flywheel) should work.

Bottom Line: to use this harness, you must have have the correct crank signal.
Click to expand...


and the correct computer
 
as far as computers, I would recommend you sue the computer that came off the vehicle the motor came out of. that way, you're sure it matches. I do not know what specifically differs from one year to the next on computer calibrations, but i have tested 92, 94 and 95 computers on these harnesses, from dakotas, rams, and ram vans, and all work just fine. THe pinouts are the same, the calibrations may differ slightly from year to year. As I said, just take the motor and computer from the same truck and youre fine. The setup in my personal car is a 95 5.9 from a 1 ton van; i took the motor, trans, and wiring/computer and used it all. you can't go wrong that way. Even if you cant get both (someone nabbed the computer but left the motor in the junkyard truck), just get one from the same year and engine size.

as far as the manual trans setup, does anyone know of a small block 143 tooth bellhousing....factory or aftermarket? Lakewood seems to have made one until last year, but I don't know any more than that. This would be one sweet setup with a stick! My original intention was to do this with a stick in my charger, but sold that before I got around to it. the flywheel/bellhousing thing is the only trick. any bellhousing can be notched to accomodate the CPS.
 
After talking to Mopar Action's Rick Ehrenberg, he told me some ideas for the flywheel for you guys that want Magnum EFI but want to keep your 833 trans....

1, sandwich the automatic flexplate between the crank and your flywheel. put the flexplate in position, then put your manual 130t flywheel over that, and bolt it down. the thin flexplate won't make any difference, and is the easiest way to do this. you then only need to cut an opening in the bellhousing for the CPS to fit through.

2, he said McLeod was talking about making a 130T flywheel for these applications and you should call them and ask if theyve done it yet.

3, take your 130T flywheel to a machine shop and have them cut the index notches into it. you should probably also take them the flexplate or the 143T flywheel so they can get it degreed exactly.

any of these will work in getting Magnum EFI into your car and keeping the factory 3 or 4 speed. Much simpler than any of us thought!

Thanks, Rick....and your awesome magazine and tech articles!
 
maybe post a video of one running on your test stand, the price is good but its still alot of money for someone to jusify spending if they don't know much about it

to me I would be including OD and lock up in the harness, most guys wanting to go to EFI are also wanting to go OD at some point

I know you can do it with pressure switches but the computer is capible of doing it so why not have it?
 
I made it independent of the transmission for several reasons. Some people will want to use an 833 4 speed, some a 727/904, some a 500/518, others may even go with a tremec. I wanted it universal. Secondly, Chrysler really dropped the ball and made overdrive a pushbutton actuated decision. Keeping the factory trans controls means you at least have to run an on/off toggle switch to turn OD on and off, but the computer would at least control lockup. The pressure switch control that PATC offers is far superior to any other method, especially at $85. put it in drive and everything is automatic....lockup and OD, the way mopar should've done it in the first place.

So, my options were to leave it like the factory wired it and leave the buyer to have to wire in a toggle switch for OD anyway, or to leave it to the buyer to decide whether they wanted to wire in a toggle switch or a pressure switch. It seemed an easy decision to me, particularly knowing that the majority of guys would likely be running the 727's and 904's their cars already have in them. Not everyone wants to do floorpan surgery to put a 518 in their car, particularly A-body guys

Finally, this harness setup will work with every transmission except the 46RE (1996+ 518's) or their weaker equivalent the 42RE, as those transmissions have to be controlled by the JTEC 96+ computer
 
393foureyedfox said:
I made it independent of the transmission for several reasons. Some people will want to use an 833 4 speed, some a 727/904, some a 500/518, others may even go with a tremec. I wanted it universal. Secondly, Chrysler really dropped the ball and made overdrive a pushbutton actuated decision. Keeping the factory trans controls means you at least have to run an on/off toggle switch to turn OD on and off, but the computer would at least control lockup. The pressure switch control that PATC offers is far superior to any other method, especially at $85. put it in drive and everything is automatic....lockup and OD, the way mopar should've done it in the first place.

So, my options were to leave it like the factory wired it and leave the buyer to have to wire in a toggle switch for OD anyway, or to leave it to the buyer to decide whether they wanted to wire in a toggle switch or a pressure switch. It seemed an easy decision to me, particularly knowing that the majority of guys would likely be running the 727's and 904's their cars already have in them. Not everyone wants to do floorpan surgery to put a 518 in their car, particularly A-body guys

Finally, this harness setup will work with every transmission except the 46RE (1996+ 518's) or their weaker equivalent the 42RE, as those transmissions have to be controlled by the JTEC 96+ computer
Click to expand...

incorrect, mopar only used the pushbutton switch to turn off the overdrive when you were towing (like newer tow haul button) when not in the off postion the transmission is completely automatic in every way

IE the pushbutton provided power to the transmission, the computer provided Negative power for lockup and overdrive

when the vacuum and throttle postion was correct lockup would occur

as well as with overdrive when the speed; throttle position and vacuum were correct
 
that's a thought. then again, some trucks came with OD and lockup, some with OD but no lockup, and some with neither.

again, universality was and is my aim.
 
have any pictures of this installed? like to see where the computer will mount. i really want it out of site if i do something like this.

i have a 94 van out back with a 5.2. so i just need one of your harnesses and the van computer and it will swap right in?

do i have to send you my harness to modify? of do you supply that for me?

if i wanted to use the 518 from the 94 van what would i have to do?

what would i need for a fuel system? how many psi does the pump need to make? is it a return system?

you have me interested here..
 
The one in my 66 Fury is the only "mounted" one I have pictures of, but the batch I have for sale differ in mounting.

The ones I am selling now mount the computer behind the passengers side of the motor. THe harness is long enough that you could feeed it through the firewall and put it behind the dash if you so chose. There is a small power distribution box that then mounts in the drivers front corner of the engine compartment. It houses the 3 fuses and 3 relays you need in a small, neat, self contained unit. You could hide this under the battery tray if you so chose. The wires that mate to your car come out at the rear of the drivers side head, right where they'd need to tap into your bulkhead. Simple and easy....

From your donor van, youd need the entire motor assembly, sensors and all. All the sensors are bolted to the engine (coil, injectors, throttle body, intake temp, coolant temp, dist, CPS) and you can remove it as one unit. Youd just need your motor assembly and the matching computer.

You do not have to send me your harness, I am selling them outright....no core needed.

To use the 518 from the 94 van, just bolt it into your vehicle. This harness connects to the neutral safety switch just as your 904/727 did. You can use your speedo housing/cable from your old trans. To get OD to work, you can use either method mentioned above. Some people want it on a manually flipped toggle switch, others choose to get the $85 pressure switch from PATC that makes all 4 gears fully automatic, even lockup (if your van has it.....2 wire plug is non-lockup, 3 wire is lockup). You'd need a driveshaft 3 inches shorter than your old 727 trans, but the yoke is the same. Obviously, you know the 518 requires a bit of floor surgery to fit....

for a fuel system, go to any parts store and order a fuel pump for a 1991 lincoln mark 7 LSC. Its the same pressure and flow rating as the magnum, but is small enough to put inside the tank. pull your sending unit out of your tank, cut off the pre-filter, and mount this fuel pump onto the intake tube. Make a small bracket to keep it firmly attached. Drill a small hole at the highest point in your tank, put a grommet in it (tightly), and feed the two pump wires out through it. put the sending unit back in (with a new seal!). One wire from the harness goes to the pumps positive wire, the pumps other wire goes to ground.

Magnums used both returnless and return fuel rails/regulators depending on year. You will want the one WITH the pressure regulator on the rear of the drivers side fuel rail, as this will return excess pressure to the tank via a return line. Seems the dakotas had these systems. If it doesnt have the regulator on the rail, then the vehicle originally had the regulator in the tank with the pump. You can still use this style, but you must buy a (pricey) external regulator. Just nab a dakota rail and be done.

anything else?
 
So do I supply the harness, or are you modifying one you already have?

I could see the only difference being that other wires in the harness are different, but the ECU pin-outs being the same, year to year. I find it interesting that each year truck had a different part number for the MP ECU, but who know's.
 
DionR said:
So do I supply the harness, or are you modifying one you already have?

I could see the only difference being that other wires in the harness are different, but the ECU pin-outs being the same, year to year. I find it interesting that each year truck had a different part number for the MP ECU, but who know's.
Click to expand...

only reason i asked was that when i called street performance a couple years ago about a magnum harness they wanted $700 plus my harness to modify. said something about chrysler not releasing the plugs neededs and they had to reuse my old plugs..
 
Exactly. My harnesses are rewired factory production units. I think Hotwire makes new harnesses, but they will set you back about $900.

Looking around online, there are places that will modify one for you....providing you ship them YOUR harness at YOUR expense, pay them $700+ and pay them to ship you YOUR harness back.

Or, I'll sell you one with no core for half that, shipped.

Years ago, when I wanted one of these, I'd have GLADLY given $500 to not have to deal with the hassle of figuring them out myself. I'm not going to get rich off of these; my goal is to just hopefully pay my way through nursing school with them.

As stated earlier, every one of these are built on a stand with a running 5.9/518, and every one is started and test run before being taken back off of the test stand. I know for sure they work when they go out the door, and instructions/guidelines are included.


Doug
 
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