505 stroker starters

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famous bob

famous bob

mopar misfit
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Lost my starter recently , have read a lot about guys using stock dakota starters and such , do they really hold up cranking a supposedly 700 plus h.p. engine ?
Leaning towards a 4 h.p. double ball bearing 3:73 gear reduction , mini starter w/ the elec. lugs on the rear side of the soelinoid .
ALL THOTS APRECIATED --------------Bob
 
Assuming you run TTI headers, the approved Powermaster is a better choice
 
roccodart440 said:
Assuming you run TTI headers, the approved Powermaster is a better choice
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Yes on the headers ," a ***** w/ raised port heads !" Took every bit of 1 1/2 hrs to get the bolts out . Dont want to do this again , would try the MSD starter if it weren`t so expensive , the one I `m looking at tis the same thing w/o the brand name.
How long has ur powermaster held up ?
 
Just a thought. I know it may not be feasible, but on high compression Harley motors we use to build, there was a tool that allowed you install a manual compression release by drilling and tapping into the head next to the spark plug. You would depress the button on top of the compression release which essentially allowed the exhaust to exit and once the motor completed a few revolutions the CR would close. Many starters were sacrificed until this gadget was devised. Later on Harley developed the ACR (automatic compression release) that was internal and electrically activated. Obviously there are different reasons why on an automobile engine it would pose quite the challenge, but still you wouldn't need to have all 8 cylinders affected, maybe only 2 that would drop the compression enough. Hope this thought doesn't side track your initial question or hi jack the thread.
 
i have a stock dakota starter from car quest, 3 years strong so far. turns my 440 over with 12.5 compression. i did raise the timing this year to 38 and its struggles when the motors hot
 
famous bob said:
Lost my starter recently , have read a lot about guys using stock dakota starters and such , do they really hold up cranking a supposedly 700 plus h.p. engine ?
Leaning towards a 4 h.p. double ball bearing 3:73 gear reduction , mini starter w/ the elec. lugs on the rear side of the soelinoid .
ALL THOTS APRECIATED --------------Bob
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LOST YOUR STARTER!!???.. I've had one go out but I've never lost one LOL...
My aftermarket mini starter didn't last very long..
I went to the junkyard and pulled a true Factory starter well hold on I found one on the ground underneath a truck I didn't pull it. $22 and took it home and cleaned it with WD-40 extremely well and I have not had one problem since...
 
j par said:
LOST YOUR STARTER!!???.. I've had one go out but I've never lost one LOL...
My aftermarket mini starter didn't last very long..
I went to the junkyard and pulled a true Factory starter well hold on I found one on the ground underneath a truck I didn't pull it. $22 and took it home and cleaned it with WD-40 extremely well and I have not had one problem since...
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STILL LOOKING AT STARTERS ,didnt know there were so many options. Thinking about replacing the soleinoid on mine , as it spins the engine pretty darn fast when it worked ,
 
famous bob said:
STILL LOOKING AT STARTERS ,didnt know there were so many options. Thinking about replacing the soleinoid on mine , as it spins the engine pretty darn fast when it worked ,
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UPDATE , nose is broke out on the end = weired . Still looking at new ones . What number on the powermaster, many to choose from ..??
 
famous bob said:
UPDATE , nose is broke out on the end = weired . Still looking at new ones . What number on the powermaster, many to choose from ..??
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That’s why I put a bushing in the hole where the stud used to be. I measured .060 diameter difference of the nose cone and the pilot in my OE bell housing.

I’ll measure it on my scatter shield one of these days.
 
Have to agree with @j par on this one, I have found the factory starters superior in quality to the aftermarket ones, the only thing that typically fails in them are the contacts in the solenoid. About $10 in parts and 20 mins to fix if needed. Cheap-simple-reliable
 
replicaracer43 said:
Have to agree with @j par on this one, I have found the factory starters superior in quality to the aftermarket ones, the only thing that typically fails in them are the contacts in the solenoid. About $10 in parts and 20 mins to fix if needed. Cheap-simple-reliable
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Was going to go that route , but when I went to get the part # off the starter , found the nose cone broke .
Bought a rebuilt factory starter ,90`s dakota supposedly , looks just like the one I pulled off , which I bought about ten yrs. ago , off the internet .---------???
 
famous bob said:
Was going to go that route , but when I went to get the part # off the starter , found the nose cone broke .
Bought a rebuilt factory starter ,90`s dakota supposedly , looks just like the one I pulled off , which I bought about ten yrs. ago , off the internet .---------???
Click to expand...
I use the nippendenso mini. Dakota i think. Bought from Mancini years ago on my 12.5:1 511. Works awesome.
 
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