# 6 spark plug access hole Big Block

[MidnightSwinger]

Can anyone share some measurements? I want to get the hole cut before I paint the engine bay. I have a 1 3/4” hole saw and a buddy of mine sent me these pics for reference. How does it look? I don’t have the ability to install the engine first so I am going to get it as close as poss. Any help or input always appreciated.

Jared

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

There is no way I would ruin a car by cutting a hole in it for spark plug access. I would rather pull the engine and change the plugs this way than trash that sheet metal in a structural area.

Tom

 

[MidnightSwinger]

There is no way I would ruin a car by cutting a hole in it for spark plug access. I would rather pull the engine and change the plugs this way than trash that sheet metal in a structural area.

Tom

Man,I ruined this thing a long time ago. I cut, hack and drill as I see fit for the task at hand. This task will aid in regular maintenance, and will be well worth the sheet metal removed. I will be plugging the hole with a metal plug to prevent road grime from entering the engine bay.

I appreciate your point of view though, if I wanted to retain full value of the car I would not cut or drill the factory sheet metal.

 

[inertia]

Keep the piece, to plug the hole in the future.
I would appreciate it if I were a later buyer.
Zip lock baggy in the trunk.
my .02 .

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Keep the piece, to plug the hole in the future.
I would appreciate it if I were a later buyer.
Zip lock baggy in the trunk.
my .02 .

Good call

 

[clementine]

I would wait until the engine was in and cut it from the wheel side. It seems every engine has its own place it wants to live. There is no hurry IMO here. Get the engine, exhaust and everything in and then drill a hole. It may end up in a spot that is 3/4" different than your buddies. Getting a socket into a hole that is off onto an object that is just on the other side of the hole could be a challenge. Also, the hole wouldnt have to be 1.75". Its could be more exact.

$0.02

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I would wait until the engine was in and cut it from the wheel side. It seems every engine has its own place it wants to live. There is no hurry IMO here. Get the engine, exhaust and everything in and then drill a hole. It may end up in a spot that is 3/4" different than your buddies. Getting a socket into a hole that is off onto an object that is just on the other side of the hole could be a challenge. Also, the hole wouldnt have to be 1.75". Its could be more exact.

$0.02

I have a shared garage, so I have to rent the cherry picker every time. It can be done though.

 

[clementine]

Here are a couple pics one from over head, then i have a poker stuck through there for reference to some landmarks and then another over head with the poker sticking through...hope this sheds some light. Your friends pictures are actually pretty close. Mine do not show elevation only distance from the rear UCA bushing.

 

[clementine]

I have to rent the cherry picker every time

The hole could potentially be drilled without pulling motor. start from wheel side.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

The hole could potentially be drilled without pulling motor. start from wheel side.

Thanks for the pictures, it definitely helps!

 

[MOPARMAGA]

U wouldn't need to get the hole perfect in line, just close enough to get in there with a wobbly extension and a socket. You could cut the hole just a little bigger than the extension then put the socket on in the engine bay, if you're worried about making a big hole .
Making a small hole is not going to effect anything structural, matter of fact I'm removing my inner fenderwells completely but will be replacing that rigidity with my roll cage bars to the front frame.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

U wouldn't need to get the hole perfect in line, just close enough to get in there with a wobbly extension and a socket. You could cut the hole just a little bigger than the extension then put the socket on in the engine bay, if you're worried about making a big hole .
Making a small hole is not going to effect anything structural, matter of fact I'm removing my inner fenderwells completely but will be replacing that rigidity with my roll cage bars to the front frame.

My thoughts exactly, just get it close enough. I’ve already got the hole saw, might as well use it.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

There it is! My big hole. Thanks for the input y’all.

Jared

 

[MidnightSwinger]

One more shot

 

[GTX JOHN]

I have several Big Block A Bodies with different brand
of headers (Currently TTI/Pro Parts/Hooker/Hedman) and I have never
had to cut any Holes anywhere to change plugs or have to lift engine.
Worst case has been box wrench on end of socket on #6 on TTI's.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I have several Big Block A Bodies with different brand
of headers (Currently TTI/Pro Parts/Hooker/Hedman) and I have never
had to cut any Holes anywhere to change plugs or have to lift engine.
Worst case has been box wrench on end of socket on #6 on TTI's.

Im attempting to run the B body Hedmans. I have it from several trusted sources that a #6 access hole is advisable to ease plug changes. In any case it’s done now.

 

[clementine]

I have a 383 with TTIs and its tight. I don't see the problem with "installing" the hole for easier access. One of the reasons I am happy to have a car without a tag, and a state assigned VIN. Mini tubbed, frame stiffened, hot rodded SOB. Now the 72 Duster with 66K on the clock......prolly leave it.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I have a 383 with TTIs and its tight. I don't see the problem with "installing" the hole for easier access. One of the reasons I am happy to have a car without a tag, and a state assigned VIN. Mini tubbed, frame stiffened, hot rodded SOB. Now the 72 Duster with 66K on the clock......prolly leave it.

That’s how I feel, this is my hot rod, gonna slice it up how I see fit. If I ever get an original 340 or big block car I wouldn’t treat it the same.

 

[halifaxhops]

I have a RB in mine and cannot get to #4 and 6 plugs without wrenching them from the top or bottom. I have the schumacher headers. I will be drilling holes for them when I take the engine out this winter. Hey just FYI there are plugs in all different sixes for electrical caps for junction boxes. What I will use to pug the holes. Lowes and HD have them.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I have a RB in mine and cannot get to #4 and 6 plugs without wrenching them from the top or bottom. I have the schumacher headers. I will be drilling holes for them when I take the engine out this winter. Hey just FYI there are plugs in all different sixes for electrical caps for junction boxes. What I will use to pug the holes. Lowes and HD have them.

View attachment 1715983415

That’s a great idea, thank you. I’m gonna use those for the antenna hole too.

Jared

 

[halifaxhops]

They make them in stanless alo thats what I want no rust then.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

That’s how I feel, this is my hot rod, gonna slice it up how I see fit. If I ever get an original 340 or big block car I wouldn’t treat it the same.

Yep, exactly but things can be done tastefully & most time it won't detract any value on those special cars. Myself, I build to keep forever like my 70 I have now it's going drag race only but the plan is to have it look stock besides the wheels and tires and super stock wheel well openings for tire clearance and changing ease. Oh and I'll have a fiberglass super stock hood but paint will be a factory color and a bumblebee stripe.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Yep, exactly but things can be done tastefully & most time it won't detract any value on those special cars. Myself, I build to keep forever like my 70 I have now it's going drag race only but the plan is to have it look stock besides the wheels and tires and super stock wheel well openings for tire clearance and changing ease. Oh and I'll have a fiberglass super stock hood but paint will be a factory color and a bumblebee stripe.

That is going to be rad! I’m also going to do the S/S wheel wells, purely for aesthetic as this won’t be a racer.

 

[MOPARMAGA]

That is going to be rad! I’m also going to do the S/S wheel wells, purely for aesthetic as this won’t be a racer.

Thanks, It's a bad *** look for sure !

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Thanks, It's a bad *** look for sure !

Are you going to free hand it or did you buy a template? I bought the $40 template from eBay.