62 valiant /6 turbo build

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Boost is what creates heat. So sitting in traffic your car is basically Naturally Aspirated. You may get a bit of heat soak by sucking in the under hood air but I don't believe it would be anything to worry about. Maybe use 2 Hobb switches, have 1 Meth Nozzle kick in at say 2 PSI with a light spray and the other kick in at say 8PSI on a bigger nozzle. This way when you move the car 15Ft in traffic you can get it up on 2 PSI the meth kicks in and cools it off. This is just a thought and very inexpensive to do this.

Another thought is a Momentary switch on the Dash that bypasses the Hobbs switch and lets you spray meth at will. Kind of like a Fuel Dump Switch that the Motorcycle guys use to use so they would not go lean and burn up their engines. This would cool it off like right now whenever you seen the need.


Maddart I like the idea about running a bypass switch in the cab of the car my controllerith is in the cab also so it would be easy
 
Maddart I like the idea about running a bypass switch in the cab of the car my controllerith is in the cab also so it would be easy

Aaron,

I am about as far from an automotive engineer as you can get, and still be able to drive a car.... I am really an ignoramous when it comes to thremodynamics as regards the internal combustion engine.

That doesn't mean that I don't have opinions, worthless though they may be...

MY OPINION, and this is just a guess, is that cooling the intake charge of an idling engine (like, in traffic) or one that's at VERY low throttle settings (like in traffic, at snail speeds) is not going to make much difference in overall engine temperatures.

What creates heat in low-rpm, low-power situations, I would think, is the exhaust flow out the exhauast ports, the heat transfer from the exhaust manfold (or, header) to the head, and the combustion process inside the cylinder.

If you have ignition (and, you will, or it will not run at all,) the burning gasoline will create a certain amount of heat, and the small temperature drop in the incoming charge, won't affect that burning, very much at all.

I can't see it having much effect on the overall engine temperature.

But, like I said; I am anything BUT a specialist in automotive (internal combustion) thermodynamics. I could be dead wrong... and, it wouldn't surprise me!

Maybe that college student who was on here a couple of weeks ago, talking about a theoretical engine project, will show up and give is HIS considered opinion. He was studying thermodynamics... Hope so... I REALLY don't know what I'm talking about; I just have a feeling that the burning gasses that heat up an engine aren't going to have their temperature affected THAT much, at an idle, with a meth or water spray... unless, you put the fire completely out, with too much spray... My 2-cents.

Don't take it to the bank, though... as I said, it's just my uneducated opinion.
 
As promised here's a video I just fired it up after a long winter of changes
[ame]http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/srixon4406/VID_20120514_144709.mp4[/ame]
 
Get those rockers adjusted!

I did them last year when the motor was running and I didn't change anything internal in the motor
I'm only let run in short intermediate runs a couple minutes at a time I'm mostly checking for any leaks but I haven't found any yet
I have to get a shorter water line going from the intake to the Turbo and also a shorter oil return line from the Turbo to the pan then I can start hooking the Turbo up probably in the next day or two
stay tuned
 
Here's a couple pics of the turbo all plumbed in oil and water lines I still have to fab up and my downpipe and Alot of little things but once I fire it back up and do my leak test on the water and oil lines ill take some videos and post it in the next day or two

IMG_20120516_103921.jpg

IMG_20120516_103912.jpg
 
its all looking good... one thing though... that radiator... i sure hope its not a stock slant one??
 
Kid yeap its a stock three core rad and thanks for your concern but it's staying till I no for sure it can't handle the flow I need. I'm aware I may need to change it out but the whole car is getting tore back down in the winter for a full paint job so I'm sure there will be some minor changes that may need attended to but during my planning process I left room for a possible upgrade if needed
Thanks Aaron
 
Kid yeap its a stock three core rad and thanks for your concern but it's staying till I no for sure it can't handle the flow I need. I'm aware I may need to change it out but the whole car is getting tore back down in the winter for a full paint job so I'm sure there will be some minor changes that may need attended to but during my planning process I left room for a possible upgrade if needed
Thanks Aaron

i forget your in the NE... much colder... still may at least need a 24"... rather have a big rad on it and be able to go anywhere...
 
Kid I totally agree with you I'm going to upgrade it but at this time it's going to see limited street time most track time
This little car is bleeding my wallet dry I can't see how anybody without any fab ability or somebody to help out could ever complete something like this if they had to pay for the labor. I've spent a ton of money and did all the work myself and where not even going to talk about time.
I believe from your posts you work in a shop so I'm sure you can relate its really all the little stuff that really adds up but I've already went over my budget but what can you do going fast has its price I'm not complaining I really excited I'm planning on trying to make a test and tune on June 1 at 131 motorsport but we'll see
Aaron
 
Kid I totally agree with you I'm going to upgrade it but at this time it's going to see limited street time most track time
This little car is bleeding my wallet dry I can't see how anybody without any fab ability or somebody to help out could ever complete something like this if they had to pay for the labor. I've spent a ton of money and did all the work myself and where not even going to talk about time.
I believe from your posts you work in a shop so I'm sure you can relate its really all the little stuff that really adds up but I've already went over my budget but what can you do going fast has its price I'm not complaining I really excited I'm planning on trying to make a test and tune on June 1 at 131 motorsport but we'll see
Aaron

lol yea... for our 120K darts its 60/60K parts and labor lol... and they paint is only like 15K... LOL parts are crazy... well its 40 a peice for the 1/4 window vertical felt things... WTF!!
 
I understand your thinking on how much the money guys must spend. The car you are building would cost easily 3 times as much if you needed to pay for labour.

How can those guys afford it? EASY. 1 % have 99% of the money.
 
6/9/2012
I'm still putting some hours on the car probably not as many as I should but but I've had a couple small set backs but here's the latest update I've landed and hooked up the front brake and installed some Lakewood 90-10 front shocks here a shot the back would of been done but I'm going to have to get a T4 block for the lines on the 8.75
IMG_20120609_133216.jpg


Also here's a link to a short video of the motor running after I installed some clifford rocker arms
[ame]http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/srixon4406/VID_20120605_092049.mp4[/ame]

I'm getting close baring anymore set backs in the next couple weeks the TOAD will be road ready
Stay tuned:happy1:
 
Update 8/1/2012!!

IMG_20120801_205925.jpg

IMG_20120801_205954.jpg

Cold side all plumbed in I'm going to try and fab up the downpipe in the next couple days and ill post some more pics then
 
Update 8/1/2012!!

That looks awesome, Aaron!!!

It's AMAZING, how many little things crop up to slow you down in getting a car like this finshed, isn't it???

We have been chasing our collective tail with inconsistent (and I mean, REAL inconsistent) fuel pressure at the carb.

I ordered a new Aeromotive regulator to replace this Mallory 4309, which I never could get to work right. It specifies NO SMALLER than a -8 return line, so I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and replace this 3/8" line after all.

Keep us posted; we're all in this together... LOL!

Bill

IMG_20120801_205925.jpg

IMG_20120801_205954.jpg

Cold side all plumbed in I'm going to try and fab up the downpipe in the next couple days and ill post some more pics then
...
 
its all looking good... one thing though... that radiator... i sure hope its not a stock slant one??

About 25 years ago a friend turbo'd a Holden 202 six. It used the standard radiator and was fine.
You would only be in boost for 10 or 15 seconds at a time, and the other times it was like running a stock engine.
 
Here's a short video but i haven't started tuning yet but I think it sound pretty good I have a minor trans leak I have to fix and the TOAD is almost ready to be pulled out of the garage under it own power


[ame]http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/srixon4406/VID_20120805_115449.mp4[/ame]
 
Here's a short video but i haven't started tuning yet but I think it sound pretty good I have a minor trans leak I have to fix and the TOAD is almost ready to be pulled out of the garage under it own power


http://static.photobucket.com/playe...lbums/h431/srixon4406/VID_20120805_115449.mp4

Aaron,

Every time I try to view that video I get an error message that says, "We're sorry, but Internet Explorer has encountered a problem and must close.... etc., etc..."

I don't know if it's just my computer, or what...

Has anybody else watched this video successfully?
I want to see it!!!:violent1:
 
Aaron,

Every time I try to view that video I get an error message that says, "We're sorry, but Internet Explorer has encountered a problem and must close.... etc., etc..."

I don't know if it's just my computer, or what...

Has anybody else watched this video successfully?
I want to see it!!!:violent1:

Bill I emailed a copy of the video to you please let me no if you get it
Aaron :burnout:
 
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