63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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I've got a minute~ the brake fluid showed up too late, but got the pressure bleeder ready for in the morning. I generally just use gravity, but this works very well. So that's it for today~ thanks to all :thankyou:

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Morning, or Good afternoon;) My how time flies these days:( Got on the bleeding, bled and bled, finally figured why I wasn't getting a decent brake pedal~ the depth of the master cylinder needed a spacer, so I cut off a 3/8 bolt, about an 1" remaining, now I've got a pedal, but need to find the correct spacer/depth. One wasn't included in the package quite a while ago. There is an adjustment inside the booster on the MC side, but it's a scrawny bolt, more like a machine screw. But I know there isn't anything wrong with the hydraulic system and no leaks to be found.
lunch time :lol:
 
back on the ground again, I gave the front torsion bars 4-5 turns, needs to be rolled I suppose to settle. I'm not sure what height to go with. One day when I have it on the 4 post lift I can really pay attention to that when aligning it. Went to get gas, (premium), used 3 -5 gallon cans to put the gas in my gas caddy so I can just pump the gas in.

what's left? steering column, windshield, eventually carpet which is totally last, tidy up wires, when running~check AC again. I know there's a leak around the transmission, really haven't looked at it. WE all know it's a running engine~

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OH, and I have some rocker panel stripes coming!!

The slash stripes I'm playing with, not sure if these will work for this area. Maybe when I cut them like Tin Cups '63, might look ok? I'm really wanting Super Six some where
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Six "Exhaust Ports" on driver's fender, "Pentastar" emblem on passenger lower fender.

That's a Super Six......

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Whoop, Whoop!


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Good afternoon~ amazing the little things can take up so much time. I ran the engine for about 15 minutes or more, sounds great. The AC cools very well (40 degrees) considering all the windows are down and the windshield isn't installed, so no recirculating air.
I was a little reluctant to put it in gear while running, so I pulled the coil wire, put it in first, turned the engine over with the clutch in and it didn't move. So, plugged the coil wire back in, pushed the clutch in, put it in gear and let the clutch out slowly and the cars moves:lol::lol:

I'll post an official video soon

A near future plan, I want to pull out the clutch fork that I welded to make it shorter. I have another clutch fork to work on. I just fear my weld not holding and the car jumps forward. Next week I should have the Dart on the 4 post lift for front end stuff and look at the fork then. Also I can tighten up all shackles, shocks, etc.
I'm going to have a cup of coffee now:thumbsup:

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Good old fashioned stick welding like 6013 rods have a strength of 6,000 lbs per inch.

I doubt your fabbed clutch fork is going to come apart. (unless you burried a bunch of slag in the actual welds)


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Well, it's not that I don't trust my welding ability on many things, just a lot riding on this clutch fork. However, I've noticed when I push the clutch pedal, I think it has more travel than necessary. Meaning, I don't have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to disengage the clutch. I may be able to make the clutch fork a little longer placing the slave cylinder out a bit to accomplish this. Which would offer more leverage and less power to push to disengage the clutch. I'm probably not making a bit of sense. I'll know more tomorrow.

I wish I knew what a normal distance the throw is of the clutch fork, or slave travel would be. this video I took a while back.


George Jets said:
Good old fashioned stick welding like 6013 rods have a strength of 6,000 lbs per inch.

I doubt your fabbed clutch fork is going to come apart. (unless you burried a bunch of slag in the actual welds)


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Dne007 said:
Well, it's not that I don't trust my welding ability on many things, just a lot riding on this clutch fork. However, I've noticed when I push the clutch pedal, I think it has more travel than necessary. Meaning, I don't have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to disengage the clutch. I may be able to make the clutch fork a little longer placing the slave cylinder out a bit to accomplish this. Which would offer more leverage and less power to push to disengage the clutch. I'm probably not making a bit of sense. I'll know more tomorrow.

I wish I knew what a normal distance the throw is of the clutch fork, or slave travel would be. this video I took a while back.
Click to expand...


Making perfect sense.

Carry On


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Must have had a baby cool front come through, so saw opportunity to finish the decklid;) Anyway, I put some work into this deck lid as most you know, not perfect, but will get the job done until I can locate another lid, but this should hold up for a while. I'll install tomorrow with the help of Gary and my brother Robo;)

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