63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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BTW.. i saw your spring post.. did you torque the u-bolts or just crank em? I over tightened mine and the car would not sit down at all... redid them to 75ft-lbs and it dropped right down
 
Hey Icy;) what I did regarding the rear leaves, I left the bolts un-tightend, then when full weight was put on, then I torqued them down. ;) :thankyou:

BTW.. i saw your spring post.. did you torque the u-bolts or just crank em? I over tightened mine and the car would not sit down at all... redid them to 75ft-lbs and it dropped right down
 
OMG, you explain things just like me:lol::lol:
I admit I am a " take 'er a part and put er back to together" guy, Sadly no real mechanic here!!! After all these decades I should know/remember more!
I think what barbee was trying to say is crud can get caught in infinitely small passages in the carb and reek havoc. The idle air bleed slots in most carburetors are so small, just about anything can clog them. If it's a new carburetor (I think I remember you saying you bought it new, but that it was a Chinese source), it may just not have port sizing right (speaking of the idle circuit stuff). It might work better if you use a used and rebuilt 318 carburetor from a 1960's or '70s engine. I've had carburetors that I just couldn't tune, only to switch to another that -- on paper -- was identical, and have incredible success. The defunct carbs looked perfectly normal when I dissected them. Go figure!
YES! It is called the idle air bleed slots!!!!
I have read where guys have bought the new Chineesium 2 bbl knockoffs and they would take them apart and find a lot of "junk" that the Gooks did not clean out from the manufacturing process. I have run several but not that many miles, no issue, other guys say they are must not up to snuff and always better try and rebuild a "real" one!
I rather have a real one, but like me,. they are old! :BangHead: :thumbsup:
 
That tag on the front of the carb should have a model # or somewhere on the carb...

Sometime a while ago, I had cleaned up that/this carburetor, but could not figure what kit to buy, so it was easy to just buy the Amazon carburetor. However, would the 318 carburetor be a better choice if it fits? I hate the way the innards are on the top underneath the little plate~ I had taken mine apart on the Amazon carburetor and have no idea of how to adjust it.

We took a tiny little drive and darn it, there's a game going on at my favorite test drive site!! grrr, so took Dart on the straight up to 50mph, ran great until we turned around, seemed like it was stumbling, but I think it was me, my right leg was shaking being nervous plus amplified by Gary asking me what's wrong! lol Got back to the house and noticed how cold the AC was!

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Hey Icy;) what I did regarding the rear leaves, I left the bolts un-tightend, then when full weight was put on, then I torqued them down. ;) :thankyou:
k.. yeah i over tightened mine and the rear wouldn't even bounce it was insane... lesson learned. Seems i always over tightened them.. i probably would have enjoyed some of my old cars more if i bothered with torque specs
 
Sometime a while ago, I had cleaned up that/this carburetor, but could not figure what kit to buy, so it was easy to just buy the Amazon carburetor. However, would the 318 carburetor be a better choice if it fits? I hate the way the innards are on the top underneath the little plate~ I had taken mine apart on the Amazon carburetor and have no idea of how to adjust it.

We took a tiny little drive and darn it, there's a game going on at my favorite test drive site!! grrr, so took Dart on the straight up to 50mph, ran great until we turned around, seemed like it was stumbling, but I think it was me, my right leg was shaking being nervous plus amplified by Gary asking me what's wrong! lol Got back to the house and noticed how cold the AC was!

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In carter i trust :) a quick search says that is a Carter BBD... used for like 40 years... I would wiggle the throttle shaft. if it's not loose i would rebuild and run it..

 
i have a freind who buys the chinese dcoe sidedraft weber copies and guts them putting all the internals in original weber bodies. they look like webers and have all new internals he said and they run and tune just the same. would it be worth doing that with all the'guts' from your new carb to rebuild your old original one?
neil.
 

btw.. i know people using chinese carbs without an issue.... for some reason people just hate other countries.. it is what it is.. more than likely it needs a cleanup if it's acting up.. even brand new holleys and edelbrocks have junk sometimes
 
I was on a forum on FB, Slant 6? at least one person condemned the knockoff carb, but asked how it did~ never got back to the person. I like this Amazon carb because it looks new and shiny;) Vs my original media blasted "old" carburetor. :lol:

The picture of the top, underneath the little plate~ things like this perplex me~ on the Amazon carb, I had loosened those up and probably messed up a delicate adjustement. Maybe I could take the base plate/throttle plate and put in on my chinese carburetor to see if the mixture screws would work as intended.
I have no ill feeling towards Chinese parts, as long as they work. I put a 50 dollar mini starter on my engine, and it works fantastic (knock on wood) and a 5 year warranty; have no idea how the warranty works.

I'm going to take another drive without Gary, no offense to my husband, he just makes me nervous sometimes. my little brother is no different, he questions everything I do even when I know what I'm doing:lol:

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I was on a forum on FB, Slant 6? at least one person condemned the knockoff carb, but asked how it did~ never got back to the person. I like this Amazon carb because it looks new and shiny;) Vs my original media blasted "old" carburetor. :lol:

The picture of the top, underneath the little plate~ things like this perplex me~ on the Amazon carb, I had loosened those up and probably messed up a delicate adjustement. Maybe I could take the base plate/throttle plate and put in on my chinese carburetor to see if the mixture screws would work as intended.
I have no ill feeling towards Chinese parts, as long as they work. I put a 50 dollar mini starter on my engine, and it works fantastic (knock on wood) and a 5 year warranty; have no idea how the warranty works.

I'm going to take another drive without Gary, no offense to my husband, he just makes me nervous sometimes. my little brother is no different, he questions everything I do even when I know what I'm doing:lol:

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I would take the chinese one apart and blow out all the orifices with some carb clean and re-assmeble.. nice thing with new carbs is you can usually get away with the gaskets not tearing..:)

Would take a hour or 2 and be free...
 
Nothing went right on this carb swap. Weird enough, the choke pulloff on the carter doesn't work with the new electric choke conversion from Mikes Carburetors, then the electric choke broke internally. It's pretty squirrely the way it's made. When I first got it, it rattled. I called the company and was told to super glue the little tiny piece of plastic back (yellow thing circled), lasted until now, but I feel it was doomed to un-glue itself.

I was going to remove the choke pulloff from the Amazon carb and put on the other carb. but the screw twisted right off rendering it useless. I'm not going to go into detail as it's complicated. As it stands, just kind of without a carburetor at this moment.

I did order a carb kit for the Carter, but I think I'll just put it in a box along with the kit and sell it.

I'm tempted to order another Amazon carb and call it day. If the adjustment screws don't work, so be it. After having the Amazon carb apart and side by side, it's quite impressive how well it's made.


Darn, I have a Dr. appointment:(

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the little plastic thing circled in yellow is supposed to be glued to the coil end
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Nothing went right on this carb swap. Weird enough, the choke pulloff on the carter doesn't work with the new electric choke conversion from Mikes Carburetors, then the electric choke broke internally. It's pretty squirrely the way it's made. When I first got it, it rattled. I called the company and was told to super glue the little tiny piece of plastic back (yellow thing circled), lasted until now, but I feel it was doomed to un-glue itself.

I was going to remove the choke pulloff from the Amazon carb and put on the other carb. but the screw twisted right off rendering it useless. I'm not going to go into detail as it's complicated. As it stands, just kind of without a carburetor at this moment.

I did order a carb kit for the Carter, but I think I'll just put it in a box along with the kit and sell it.

I'm tempted to order another Amazon carb and call it day. If the adjustment screws don't work, so be it. After having the Amazon carb apart and side by side, it's quite impressive how well it's made.


Darn, I have a Dr. appointment:(

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the little plastic thing circled in yellow is supposed to be glued to the coil end
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Eck.. sorry you are having such issues.. if you need to fix that get some permatex black plastic weld, it's by far the best epoxy for putting plastic back together, sets up in 30 mins..


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cool.. and that epoxy is amazing stuff.. i use it at work all the time, tried a buncha brands and that was the best by far
 
This is the carburetor that came with the two barrel manifold. I didn't know what kit to install, so I just bought the Amazon, now I'm looking at this carburetor again. :lol:

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You have what is called a high top BBD 2 barrel, believe some of those high tops were used in the higher elevations. Something on how it vents the bowls.

Here is a picture of a reman Low Top BBD 2 barrel.

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Maybe you would have better luck with one of this style being you are closer to sea level there in Texas?

Ebay is your friend:

Item number
124296127025

Around $120


☆☆☆☆☆
 
I tried looking thru some of my junk yesterday, as I though I could have a few Carter BBD's but I only found some 1 bbl carbs. If I can find some good cores in the junk, I will send you one.
 
Hi guys;) I have a question I suppose. When turning in a sharp fashion, like a u-turn, I get this rub sound and it's obvious in the picture. The rub isn't obvious on the tires yet. Anyway I went to talk to my tire store about different wheels, but they don't have the offset in just about any brand rim to remedy this. So, in my petty thinking, I thought maybe a rear sway bar might lessen the effect? I Love the looks of the tire and would hate to have to change tires at this point, but as the new leaf springs settle, it may become worsened.

I'll never drive the Dart hard, or corner hard like on a track, just a street driver. If the answer might be yes, I was looking at rear roll bars, but thought maybe since I'm running an 8.25 rear axle with the leaf spring relocation, like this might limit what I can purchase.
Otherwise, the engine runs great, shifts great, I like the way it shifts from reverse to 1st , and love the pull in 2nd going into 3rd gear;) We had been gone for the last week visiting our daughter in philly, nice to be home.
ok, heading to the shop to work on my pressure washer~ be back :lol:

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Hi guys;) I have a question I suppose. When turning in a sharp fashion, like a u-turn, I get this rub sound and it's obvious in the picture. The rub isn't obvious on the tires yet. Anyway I went to talk to my tire store about different wheels, but they don't have the offset in just about any brand rim to remedy this. So, in my petty thinking, I thought maybe a rear sway bar might lessen the effect? I Love the looks of the tire and would hate to have to change tires at this point, but as the new leaf springs settle, it may become worsened.

I'll never drive the Dart hard, or corner hard like on a track, just a street driver. If the answer might be yes, I was looking at rear roll bars, but thought maybe since I'm running an 8.25 rear axle with the leaf spring relocation, like this might limit what I can purchase.
Otherwise, the engine runs great, shifts great, I like the way it shifts from reverse to 1st , and love the pull in 2nd going into 3rd gear;) We had been gone for the last week visiting our daughter in philly, nice to be home.
ok, heading to the shop to work on my pressure washer~ be back :lol:

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Looks great. A sway bar may help. A Panhard bar may help too. Are you getting a rub on both sides? If so. a skinnier tire will help. You could push out the inner wheel tub (reshape it in the rub spots) but watch out not to push too far.
 
Hi guys;) I have a question I suppose. When turning in a sharp fashion, like a u-turn, I get this rub sound and it's obvious in the picture. The rub isn't obvious on the tires yet. Anyway I went to talk to my tire store about different wheels, but they don't have the offset in just about any brand rim to remedy this. So, in my petty thinking, I thought maybe a rear sway bar might lessen the effect? I Love the looks of the tire and would hate to have to change tires at this point, but as the new leaf springs settle, it may become worsened.

I'll never drive the Dart hard, or corner hard like on a track, just a street driver. If the answer might be yes, I was looking at rear roll bars, but thought maybe since I'm running an 8.25 rear axle with the leaf spring relocation, like this might limit what I can purchase.
Otherwise, the engine runs great, shifts great, I like the way it shifts from reverse to 1st , and love the pull in 2nd going into 3rd gear;) We had been gone for the last week visiting our daughter in philly, nice to be home.
ok, heading to the shop to work on my pressure washer~ be back :lol:

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I wouldn't hesitate to massage that spot with hammer. You'll never see it from the outside. I've had to do the same thing on my 66 and 68 Darts. Is that lip rubbing at all? If so, you could tap that up a little too if needed.
 
:thankyou: :thankyou: I was wondering about that idea, so it's double sheet there, or the inner well? The fender lip seems to be ok, that's what I thought was rubbing. That would have been to easy for it to have been just the lip:lol:.

I wouldn't hesitate to massage that spot with hammer. You'll never see it from the outside. I've had to do the same thing on my 66 and 68 Darts. Is that lip rubbing at all? If so, you could tap that up a little too if needed.
 
You could do the contortionist act in the trunk with a flashlight to see how much space you have between the outer tub and the quarter panel. Then if you're comfortable banging a relief dent into the tub, that may cure it. I believe I'd narrow that wheel lip up just a tad too, just in case. It might make it ride harsher, but if you used Delrin bushings in the leaf spring eyes it may take the wiggle out of it. Did you use the OD version of the 833? I'm too lazy to go back and read....lol. :realcrazy:
 
:thankyou: :thankyou: I was wondering about that idea, so it's double sheet there, or the inner well? The fender lip seems to be ok, that's what I thought was rubbing. That would have been to easy for it to have been just the lip:lol:.
It's just like the 67+ A bodies where there's an inner panel and the outer panel. You just need to expand the inner part a bit. You can buy quite a bit of room just by banging away.

That's one 'drawback' with leaf springs - they do allow for a little side to side movement. Maybe swapping out the rear swing shackles with sliders would help a tad?
 
I just came back from looking down yonder~ it's near impossible to view it. , but offers some hope to get the much needed room at least to lessen the rub. I was thinking maybe trying my portapower to press the inner part outward, then I could keep a watchful eye on what's going on on the visible outer fender. Another thought which I had mentioned, since I had installed the leaf spring relocators which narrows the rear axle fixation?(for lack of better description, geometry, physics stuff). Now perhaps when taking subtle turns, the body can roll a bit more than when stock? That's why I was thinking rear sway bar. They're not terribly expensive and could be beneficial in preventing/lessening body roll?

hm, we had cool front come through last night, kind of cool and the wind is really howling!

You could do the contortionist act in the trunk with a flashlight to see how much space you have between the outer tub and the quarter panel. Then if you're comfortable banging a relief dent into the tub, that may cure it. I believe I'd narrow that wheel lip up just a tad too, just in case. It might make it ride harsher, but if you used Delrin bushings in the leaf spring eyes it may take the wiggle out of it. Did you use the OD version of the 833? I'm too lazy to go back and read....lol. :realcrazy:
 
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