63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

-
we used my portapower with a block of wood to push the inner arches out on a mates 70 coronet, we got a 295 tyre on an 8 1/2 torq thrust wheel under the arches which we're told won't fit.
so long story short it should work well for your dart too :thumbsup:
neil.
 
Problem Solved
Rock Auto rear shocks for Dart.

Screenshot_20251029-194823_Gallery.jpg


Nice soft ride, totally adjustable > 25 psi should do the trick. Hauling some big passengers put them up to 40 psi.

Do not buy the encased bag Hijackers, it will ride like a lumber wagon... way too stiff.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Jeez.....Instead of bashing the car with hammers and blocks of wood, why not put the proper wheels and tires on the car ? :BangHead:
 

Problem Solved
Rock Auto rear shocks for Dart.

View attachment 1716473031

Nice soft ride, totally adjustable > 25 psi should do the trick. Hauling some big passengers put them up to 40 psi.

Do not buy the encased bag Hijackers, it will ride like a lumber wagon... way too stiff.


☆☆☆☆☆
And No, this is not the answer. In fact air shocks can do irreversible damage to the upper shock mounts. Do a search, and you'll get a thousand hits on the subject.
 
And No, this is not the answer. In fact air shocks can do irreversible damage to the upper shock mounts. Do a search, and you'll get a thousand hits on the subject.

Works for us just fine, just a little shot of air keep it from rubbing.

Not the 1960s where people are putting M 60s on them, jacking them up so high they need to readjust the headlights, and carry the whole car load on the upper shock crossmember.

I actually put the short "Big Block Leafs" on the bottom of the original spring stack on my '67 that worked out fine too.

20200712-020702.jpg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
Works for us just fine, just a little shot of air keep it from rubbing.

Not the 1960s where people are putting M 60s on them, jacking them up so high they need to readjust the headlights, and carry the whole car load on the upper shock crossmember.

I actually put the short "Big Block Leafs" on the bottom of the original spring stack on my '67 that worked out fine too.

View attachment 1716473071


☆☆☆☆☆
so you weren't talking 'thunderbolt and lightfoot' then :rofl:
 
This morning, I'm going back over to the tire store and see about different tires, they did it for the front tires, so doesn't hurt to ask, even if they just allow me a "TRADE IN" on these current tires. Kind of sad, just these tires I have look incredible.
 
Take the "wheel of death" to that outer wheel housing and split it, take the big hammer to it, and then weld ion a patch!!! Then roll the outside edge with a ball bat!
Louisiana method! You love close enough! :thumbsup: :steering: :confederateflag:
 
Make sure your rear end is "Centered" in the car, they can be off by as much as 1/4" - 1/2" just by bolting up the leaf springs.

One side will usually rub.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Just got back from the tire store, I told him how I really wanted to keep the tires that are on it, so he said American Racing can make me a set of wheels, and will somewhat match what I have on the front. Be about 550 per wheel which I don't mind paying. This way the tire will be centered in the well.
Yes, I can beat the inner well in the meantime so can drive it. I'm not going to get cheap at this point~ oh, also he said they can do the rim wider so the tire won't be so bellowed out.
just the calculation is messing with me to determine the offset. So I'm going to put the Dart on the 4 post lift in a little bit to start figuring out what I need for a offset. If you guys have an suggestions, I'm listening as always;) I did make the suggestion as I'd like to have one tire removed to see where the tire should be in the well, of he said sure.

tire offset.jpeg
 
See which side is actually rubbing. You can cheat the rear end over to the other side to gain clearance needed.

1 thousand for 2 wheels???

I think you should put on that magic thinking cap. These cars are not made symmetrical, made by people of the 1960s.

It's been said lockers near the assembly lines were filled with Whiskey bottles... helping them to overcome the boredom of their repetitive work.

20251030_100239.jpg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
Yeah I know, kind of pricey, both sides are rubbing pretty good, and I haven’t even driven semi aggressively. I dropped off one wheel, The guy is calculating what backspace is needed. I’ve spent a fair amount of money on this build, another grand isn’t going hurt my feelings ;) probably my last build so I want to do it right;)

IMG_0032.jpeg


IMG_0028.jpeg


IMG_0031.jpeg


IMG_0036.jpeg


IMG_0033.jpeg
 
How about lopping at inch off the axle tubes. I can't remember what rear axle you've got, but if it's an 8-3/4, you may have enough spline on the axles to just cut off the amount you take out of each axle tube. Just throwing ideas out there.
 
What is the Flange to Flange measure, from where the backing plates bolt on? On your 8 1/4?

Want to compare that number to what the A-Body 8 3/4s measure???

Darts have tight wheel/tire clearance, now Dusters are wide open.

What are your break shoe width package? 2 1/2"

Now the 8 3/4s have a 1 3/4" break shoe, allowing the wheels to sit closer in on the car...


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Hi George;)
I'll have to get the measurements tomorrow for the flange to flange. , but I can tell you the brake shoes are 10 x 2 1/2
It's a shame that Dr.Diff doesn't cater more to the 8 1/4 regarding shortening, maybe a variety of different length axle shafts? Since they're splined and use that C clip, not much to do about it.
 
Might have to raise the car just a bit for more clearance.

Before we found the good Monroe Max air adjustable shocks, we had made up a 2" drop down bracket for the rear leaf spring hanger that worked well. Kind of like a shackle but not as gaudy.

Will have to see if I can dig up a picture of them. Think it was 2" x 2" steel angle.

Think they bolted up to the A body factory spring hanger holes in the body, then dropped down at 90° and bolt the spring leaf bracket to that.

Gives the car a little rake, you can bring the front up with the torsion bars a bit too if you want...


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Looks like that 8 1/4 rear end setup is just a hair too wide for your A body.

I can see where the "Rub" is on the outer inner wheel house.

20251031_022755.jpg


Perhaps it is time to use the "Steal from Peter to Pay off Paul" approach?

There are 3 areas to pick up some slack on your 6 cylinder powered A Body.

1. First pull the axles and knock out the studs, then machine off 1/8" off of the axle face.

2. Machine off 1/8" off of the inside face of the aluminum Torq Thrust wheels to give them an additional 1/8" more back spacing.

These two adjustments will give you 1/4" more clearance per side and 1/2" more clearance over all.

3. You can message the inner outer wheel house with the likes of a leather mallet or a careful push with a port-to-power and a 2x4 to push it out for more clearance without damaging the outer 1/4 panel skin.

Then you won't be messing up the look of the car the way it sits now.

It all ads up... an inch is as good as a mile.

IMG_0028.jpeg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
Here is another approach you may have not of thought about with the Torq Thrust II available wheels.

We ordered the exact same wheel tire package that my '69 Satellite had for my Cousin's '67 Coronet R/T. Unknowingly the R/T had tighter clearance on the rear quarters.

The new wheels came in and we mounted up the tires. Come to find out the new generation of Torq Thrust II wheels had 3/4" more outward facing offset, they would not fit the '67 R/T.

I had the earlier generation Torq Thrust II wheels on the '69 Satellite with less offset so we traded wheels and tires.

The wheels off the Satellite fit the R/T just fine. The brand new wheels with the additional 3/4" offset fit my Satellite just fine, giving the car a cooler look with the overall 1 1/2" wider stance. And still did not have any clearance issues.

Screenshot_20240111-213218_Gallery.jpg


69 StPaul 2019.jpg


Moral of the story, there are different offsets of the factory cast Torq Thrust II wheels in your size that are out there, you just have to dig to find them.

Pull a wheel off and measure your backspace, like 3".

Then run some ads looking for 3 3/4" backspace Torq Thrust II wheels. This should pull the wheels in giving you the clearance you need without the chop, chop, chop.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
That gave such a cool look with the wider offset wheels, just by chance.

EC931C7B-F1F2-41FE-82C6-30DAE2EA9680.jpeg


And my Cousin got a nice set of wheels and tires to fit his '67 R/T in the process.

Screenshot_20240111-213513_Gallery.jpg



☆☆☆☆☆
 
What are the specs on your Rear Torq Thrust II wheels?
15x7, 4.5 Bolt Pattern, 3" - 3.25" Back Space? Just Guessing...


Here are 3.76 Back Spacing wheels from Summit Racing that I believe will take care of things:

15x7 4.5 376 BS.png


VN515 Torq-Thrust II
Part Number: ARE-VN5155765
In Stock, Free Shipping



Search Words:
15x7 Torq Thrust II 3.75 back space 5x4.5


* * * * *
 
-
Back
Top Bottom