64-65 Hemi swap? Anyone do it with the stock K-Member?

New Hemi Engine Swaps

  1. MonkeyMadness

    MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking for any info on this swap with the stock K-member on a Narrow/early A-body.
    Kind late to the hemi swap game. Built my car for a magnum swap w/ 46re. But have a line on an 06 5.7 w/ 545RFE trans. and swap kit.
    I've heard some chatter about being able to use the /6 K-member but can't find any early A builds to back it up. I don't mind going out on a limb and winging it but I would at least like to know it can be done. Not worried about the a/c or the p/s pumps they will not be used.

    Thanks ahead of time for any and all comment or info. :thumbsup:

    Oh and I have not purchased this setup "yet." It will depend on a lot of the feed back I get from this thread and if I can sweet talk my wife enough not to notice the funding used. Wish me luck :rolleyes:

    thanks
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2021
  2. Professor Fate

    Professor Fate Push the button, Max...

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    • MonkeyMadness

      MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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      Thanks this will help. I'm going tomorrow after work to look at the motor and trans. Pretty sure I'll be coming home with it. I've already found a buyer for my 5.9/46RE
      Surprisingly the Wife didn't put up any kind of fight... lol My "Honey Do list" did get much bigger :rolleyes:
       
    • chryslerfat

      chryslerfat Well-Known Member

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      Not sure if you knew the early A has the same K for /6 and 273.
       
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      • MonkeyMadness

        MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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        Yea, I guess I just looking for a build that used the stock K just to get a few pointers. Like I noticed all the gen3 swap mounts only go back as far as 67 fitment and I'm trying to figure out if that's due to the K-member motor mounting location or the narrow fender wells?
        -Unless I'm wrong the mounting "holes" for the motor mounts on the early K's are in the same location as the later K's that use the biscuit style mounts. From what I understand the /6 mount didn't change between the two K's (narrow 64-66 vs. wide 67 n up) until the spool mount upgrade.... So in theory "if" this is true the 67 gen3 mounts should bolt directly to the early (narrow) k's no problem. Meaning the only fitment issue would be the fender wells? upper shock mounts? ?????
         
        Last edited: Jun 9, 2021
      • chryslerfat

        chryslerfat Well-Known Member

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        Correst on the mount location and I agree the fenderwells etc. would be the difference.
         
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        • KosmicKuda

          KosmicKuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          You are concentrating on physically fitting the engine but don't forget the exhaust!
          And steering shaft!
          And removing most of the trans tunnel!

          On 67 and newer swaps the steering shaft just barely clears the rear-most valve cover lower corner. That's after shortening the approx 2-1/4" tube that contains the lower bearing. A little grinding of the valve cover corner helps as does reducing the 1" diameter shaft. The column mounting holes can be elongated a little to shift everything outboard a little.
          It could be a lot worse on the narrower A-body. It may require after market column and 2-3 u-joints street rod style.

          I'm not trying to discourage you, just the opposite. I hope you move ahead with this.
           
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          • DionR

            DionR Well-Known Member

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            I would look at Tincup's build pretty closely to see what he had to do to fit the motor. Pretty sure he notched the inner fender to be able to get the valve cover off and the frame rail to fit the exhaust.

            Don't think there are any manufacturers for headers to put a 5.7 in an early A-Body.

            If you use a car timing cover, almost certain you will have to notch the frame rail for the alternator. I know the later cars sometimes get away without it, while other's need a small one. Being that your frame rails are like 2.5" closer together, I bet you need a good sized one. But a truck cover with the alternator up top would solve this (I think). Might be info in Tincup's thread about this, too.

            I'm unsure if the steering box moved out when they widened the rails, but if it didn't then the box should be in the same spot. But I know the column is angled on the later cars, so it will probably be even closer to the cylinder head than in the later cars. My gut says the box is closer to the motor and will be an issue with a 5.7, but I'm just guessing.

            Selling your blower manifold with the 5.9?
             
          • MonkeyMadness

            MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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            Yes I have taken into account of the steering setup. My current build I have a EPAS setup with the power unit mounted under the dash and a 3/4 shaft from a rav4. Shifting this a bit would not be much of a issue as well as adding a few joints.
            As for the trans tunnel the 545RFE isn't "that much" bigger than the 46RE that's fitted to my build now and I've moved the tunnel quite a bit, Hope I may only need a small amount of mod to make it fit. if its more of an issue I'll retain the 46re and just use a standalone controller for it.
            yea... Exhaust manifold that's my hang up at the moment. As much as I hate the idea, the stock log manifolds my be my best bet. Cutting the ball flange mount and rewelding it on to get more of a downward angel might be the ticket or we say screw it a flip the manifolds and turbo the piss out of it could be fun.... lol :poke::eek:
             
          • MonkeyMadness

            MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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            :eek:
            Its available, And would entertain offers... It has everything it needs from modified harness and fuel lines to oil pan.
             
            Last edited: Jun 8, 2021
          • KosmicKuda

            KosmicKuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I didn't realize your car was so far along. I assumed you were starting from scratch.

            Check out Blake's videos here.
            There is one showing the smaller Jeep alternator mounted in a different location. This avoids frame rail notching which is not the big deal everyone makes it in my opinion.

            Also, he has a video comparing manifolds.

            https://www.diyhemi.com/just-the-tip
             
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            • MonkeyMadness

              MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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              Nice, I also found last night a few relocation options for the alt. Holley makes 2 different options for moving it north of its current location. I also found a power steering pump delete pulley that should make all this much easier on the fitment. My biggest worry is the fender wells and the exhaust manifolds at the moment.

              Here is a picture of the Motor I'm getting tonight.
              00U0U_4iGmOeiMY93z_0CI0t2_1200x900.jpg

              This is the two transmissions first it the 46RE I have, and on the other is the 545RFE I'm getting as well.
              20161017_184636.jpg 00f0f_8gLD9xa2GRCz_0CI0t2_1200x900.jpg

              These are the alt relocation mount Holley offers. I like the 1st one but depending on the fender wells clearance the 2nd one maybe what I use.
              97-347_14.jpg
              97-368_15.jpg
               
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              • MonkeyMadness

                MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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                Ha, the motor I'm getting is out of a jeep Commander and has installed already (see the motor picture above) the smaller Alternator assembly. I may not have to worry about it at all.... :rolleyes:
                If i do it would be this setup
                97-368_15.jpg
                 
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                • DionR

                  DionR Well-Known Member

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                  I was looking forward to seeing you run that blower. I'd love to jump on it but really need to finish some other projects on the car. But maybe I will go back and re-read what all you did/have.
                   
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                  • DionR

                    DionR Well-Known Member

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                    Looks like a sweet package.

                    Only thing I would add to it is a cam. The 5.7 is kind of a truck motor and I always wished mine pulled a little farther up rather than run out of steam at 5200 rpm. Not that it wouldn't be fun either way, but I would want something more 6.4 like if it was mine (maybe a 6.1 cam?).
                     
                  • DionR

                    DionR Well-Known Member

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                    Good point, but don't forget his frame rail is over an inch closer than for most people doing this swap. I really doubt he will get away without mods to his engine bay.
                     
                  • MonkeyMadness

                    MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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                    No I'm expecting some mods for sure... Just trying to limit them as much as I can!
                    I'm pretty sure the moment I get out of my truck to look at this motor I'll be in over my head :rolleyes:
                     
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                    • MonkeyMadness

                      MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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                      Lol So I ended up buying everything the guy had for the swap and the hemi. It comes with a swap oil pan, BPE swap harness and programmed ECU, this harness is a motor swap dream it's soo badass! www.BPEusa.com

                      I guess now I just have to figure out which mounts I want to run and how to get my car back from paint and body so I can stuff this damn thing in

                      Any suggestions motor mounts? I've seen a few different options

                      Edit Notes: Oh and I forgot to mention the 545RFE trans is exactly the same length and same location for the mount point as the 46RE :eek: It looks like I may only have to massage the tunnel just behind the bell housing just a bit but it should be and easy fit other wise... lol knock on wood...

                      20210608_192106.jpg 00i0i_dhfUOiPomOJz_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg 00P0P_fclhQicbiT3z_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg 20210608_205014.jpg 00r0r_3pB7Syv3OqDz_0t20CI_1200x900.jpg
                       
                      Last edited: Jun 9, 2021
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                      • DionR

                        DionR Well-Known Member

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                        Been re-reading your build thread and waiting to see what you would do. I was guessing you would come home with it.
                         
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                        • TheGreatGazoo

                          TheGreatGazoo Member

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                          Yes I did a 66 valiant ( early abody ) with stock 6 cyl K member super tight lots of mods to tunnel and cross member. Also I'm using manual box with jeep manifolds. Had to file down the side of the manifold to allow the steering shaft to pass and cut back the outer tube up to the firewall. Added power brakes had to move the booster to the left side about 3 inches.

                          20201122_141701.jpg
                           
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                          • chryslerfat

                            chryslerfat Well-Known Member

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                            Pure sexy thanks for sharing.
                             
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                            • MonkeyMadness

                              MonkeyMadness Well-Known Member

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                              What motor mounts did you run on this.
                              I've got two I'm looking at

                              the TTI57MMA
                              biscuit-style-engine-mounts-66.gif
                              Or the Schumachr kit SCHA67H6
                              engine-conversion-and-replacement-kit-817.jpg
                               
                            • jw97neon

                              jw97neon Well-Known Member

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                              • TheGreatGazoo

                                TheGreatGazoo Member

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                                No one made mounts for the early A body with G3 hemi motors. So I made my own. I found a set of flat plates that bolted to the block and started from there and I had a set of schumacher poly loc B body that I had laying in my garage. Then dropped the motor in place with a jack stand and shims right where I want it then started building my mounts. Tacked them all together pulled the motor and welded all togeather. Remember the center of the crankshaft should be offset to to the passenger side about 5/8 inch I used the attached chart from tti.

                                Screenshot_20210121-201659_Drive.jpg

                                20200817_173228.jpg

                                20200817_173207.jpg

                                20200817_163144.jpg

                                20200817_144606.jpg
                                 
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