-64 A body manual steering box

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Mr Dart

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Hi. What is the difference between -66 onward manual steering box and pre -66 one? In this case -64 one. I would like to renew my -64 Dart steering box but only -66 onward boxes for sale on Ebay. Or can the box be fixed to get rid of the loose feeling and steering wheel free play. I am in Europe so no US shops available. And this should be done at reasonable price.
 
It is my understanding that early A body boxes used bushings. (Oilite) As the original designers did not anticipate heavier V-8 engines in A bodies, only slant sixes. Later they upgraded to bearings because Mopar engineers are thorough and didn't do things half-assed.

I'm 95% they are interchangeable as long as the Pitman arm splines match. A 66 and newer would be an upgrade.
 
At least for power steering boxes, in 1965 V-8 boxes had needle bearings on the output shaft (per my Dart rebuild). But, interchangeable with a slant box. Indeed, all gear-boxes should interchange from 1964 (& earlier?) to 1972. 1973+ have a larger diameter output shaft. The Pitman arms & steering linkage are a different story. In my 1965, the studs face up. I think down in 1967+ when the body also became slightly wider.
 
Hi. What is the difference between -66 onward manual steering box and pre -66 one? In this case -64 one. I would like to renew my -64 Dart steering box but only -66 onward boxes for sale on Ebay. Or can the box be fixed to get rid of the loose feeling and steering wheel free play. I am in Europe so no US shops available. And this should be done at reasonable price.

This is from 340sFastback in 2012
To properly adjust a steering box you have to loosen lock nut on top of box and back out screw to relieve tension. Then loosen the large lock nut where the steering shaft from the steering wheel enters the box. Use a very larger pair of channel locks. Then tighten the inner collar where the steering wheel shaft enters the box. I use a screw driver and hammer to tap that inner collar snug. Be easy you do not want to crack it cause its made of aluminum. Spray WD-40 on it to loosen it up. Retighten large lock nut. Now put steering wheel on center and snug up that top screw and then tighten the lock nut on the top while holding screw still. This procedure is from the Factory Service Manual. You can't just tighten up that top screw and think you are done. That is only half the adjustment of a manual box. That collar/lock nut where the steering wheel shaft goes into the box must be adjust FIRST to get all the slack out of those bearings FIRST then you adjust the slack out of that top screw SECOND. You must have all tension off that top screw before adjusting the bearing preload via the large collar.

That should get the slack out of the box if the bearings are half decent. I rebuilt my manual box myself with a kit from Firm Feel. You need a press for some of the bearings through.
 
All manual steering boxes have the same output(sector) shaft size, unless they are from a C-body or a van. The only difference in pre 67 boxes is the mounting holes are smaller than the later steering boxes. (7/16” vs 1/2”) They will interchange if you don’t mind having a slightly larger mounting hole on your early K-frame. (You shouldn’t mind, ain’t no big deal)
 
I agree with Matto. I was curious where your play was at? In checking my steering boxes, mostly used but one new Direct connection box, all were tight with no play when centered, but all had some play at the extreme left or right positions where holding the output shaft fixed the input would rock back and forth. I presumed this was normal because even the new box had this condition. Point is if that's where your play is it may be much harder to fix.
 
Free play is at center. When I drive straight line I can turn steering wheel slightly both ways with out chance of direction. Mainly this shows car wondering a bit in straight line.
 
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