Boris
Member
Any suggestions for a 8.25" or a 8.75" rear end swap for my Barracuda? I just replaced the stock 273 motor for a 318 and i want to replace the 7.25" rear end that is in the car now.
64 Barracuda rear end
- Thread starter Boris
- Start date
-
A body 8 1/4" or A body 8 3/4. You could probably get a B or C body unit but it wouldn't be right without narrowing or may be strange offset wheels.
J Glenn
Well-Known Member
The "Chrysler Performance Upgrades" book by Frank Adkins has a table with details of axle lengths and hanger spacing, etc. I recommend it. I struggled with this on my 1965 Valiant -- I wanted big bolt pattern and gearing options. It looked like I would have to go to 8 3/4 to get everything I wanted. And that would be expensive. In the end I went with a Ford 8" from a '65 mustang (v8). It's built just like the bullet-proof ford 9" (except not ash heavy-duty as the Ford 9"). Axle lengths and hanger locations matched the '65 7&1/4.
Large bolt brakes on 8 1/4's and 8 3/4 conversions to BB leaves little room for tire clearance on those older barracudas . Just a thought. If I was doing one I would redrill 67 8 3/4 axles and drums to BB.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I have a 8 inch Ford 4.30 spool to put in one of my "A" bodies.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
If you're keeping the 4" bolt pattern wheels, you're pretty much looking for a complete A-body 8 3/4. If you're changing to the 4 1/2" bolt pattern, the '73-6 A-body 8 1/4 will bolt in. With either conversion, you'll need the shock plates, to shorten the driveshaft the appropriate amount, and change the wheels. Depending on what you have in the front, you may have to do some converting there too if you want things to match and carry only one spare. Good time to do a disc brake changeover up front too!
searcher1990
Well-Known Member
I swapped out my 7.25 on my 66 barracuda with an 8 3/4 out of a 68 dart and it swapped right in. The only thing I had to change was the emergency cable brake lines because they were different length's but the ones on my 7.25 fit right in. super easy.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I found an 8 3/4 rear end (489 case) in my '65 Barracuda when I purchased it. Must be from another ABody because it has the smaller bolt pattern. I had a driveline shop change out the front driveshaft ball and trunion joint to a conventional slip joint (still have the original torqueflite). The vehicle also came with the Mopar Rallye wheels when purchased.
The Rallye rims on the vehicle in the middle photo are mounted as follows: front 195/70R-14 and rear 235/60R-14.
The Rallye rims on the vehicle in the middle photo are mounted as follows: front 195/70R-14 and rear 235/60R-14.
Last edited:
Boris
Member
Thanks for the info, the disk brake changeover is in the plans.
Boris
Member
Thanks for thanks reply
J Glenn
Well-Known Member
FWIW, episode 97 of HotRod Garage just did a Ford 8.8" into a mopar a-body (and by adding this comment here, I can find it later when I google-search!)
70SwingerGT
Active Member
IMO, you obviously are not concerned with keeping the car original so stop by the local pick-N-pull parts place and find yourself a 98-01 Ford Explorer 8.8 rear end. It will come with factory disc brakes and likely a 3.73 limited slip gear setup. You need to cut down the long side of the housing to match the short side. Then, go find the short side axle from another rear end and you got yourself a nice setup for under $300-$400. MANY have already done this since for some reason a factory A-body 8-3/4 cost is ridiculous.
Then again...
There's a guy in PA (Dustin Brown) that makes Dana 60s for around $500 (plus shipping)...you just need to get your own axles from most any place that sells them. Why pay $1800+ when you can have one custom made for whatever you drive?
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
There is another JY option. They are not real easy to find, but some 8 inch ford rears are almost a drop in swap. Early Mustang/Comet with V-8, is one. Need to be V-8 to get the 5 on 4 1/4 bolt pattern (6 Cyl was 4 bolt). I found one drum to drum for $100. got a 4.30 mini spool pumpkin for $200. Lots of parts available for them. Just bring a tape measure with you to measure distance between spring perches.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,900
- Reaction score
- 12,255
Just so you know; on the street, the 7.25 is strong enough for the 318, so long as you don't spin just one tire, and do NOT do neutral-drops or J-hooks.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I ran 7 1/4 rears in slant six street and drag cars for many years, without problems. However mine were sure grips, which are much stronger then opens
cudamark
Well-Known Member
If you could get some billet spiders and side gears, that would take care of the main failure problem. The ring and pinion hold up pretty well until you get to 350 HP or so. If you corner carve, the axle bearings are pretty weak though. Nothing like a nice big tapered roller bearing for side loads.
-
