64 Dart with 273 4-speed Carb

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Vcode

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What is a good carb to use on my friends 64 Dart with a 273 4-speed. It has a Edelbrock 1406 2166 on it. Sometimes it runs good and sometimes after driving it and you come to a stop it cuts off, will not idle correctly. Starts back up and then runs rough for a little while. Idle set at 700-750 any ideas on the 4bbl.
 
Vcode said:
What is a good carb to use on my friends 64 Dart with a 273 4-speed. It has a Edelbrock 1406 2166 on it. Sometimes it runs good and sometimes after driving it and you come to a stop it cuts off, will not idle correctly. Starts back up and then runs rough for a little while. Idle set at 700-750 any ideas on the 4bbl.
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A 600 is fine on a 273. You may have fuel delivery issues or pressure. Sounds like may be some issue in the idle circuit. Hard to say from here.
 
New Spark plugs and wires. The plugs look good (Tan)after a 15 mile drive. I does backfire a few times. new fuel filter and new stock pump, that's why I am thinking Carb. It does idle pretty good most of the time.
Thanks
 
It's at 12 btdc at 750 and has an chrysler electronic dist with no vacuum to dist. It's a driver and stock. Thanks
 
I agree, but my friend wants to fix this carb or just easier for him to replace it with the 1406
 
Sounds like one of three things:
- vapour lock
- fuel boiling in carb. Use a 1/4-3/8" insulated base gasket
- flooding due to excessive fuel pressure
 
Ok, my next step is to check the stock fuel pump pressure. Thanks
 
I ran a 1401 on my 273. It ran ok however it seemed to run rich. Changed out metering rods and jets several times. Still the same issues. I went ahead and had one of my Carter 9636 carbs rebuilt. Carter performance replacement for the 340/383. Ran the same carb on my other 273 with no problems. Now, after changing out the plugs I found the motor overall is running lean. Plugs on the white side. I figure it has a little too much advance or it’s the exhaust. I’m running a 2 1/2” single pipe back to a Turbo the from there to the stock resonator.
 
why no vacuum advance? Id check the mechanical advance plate for snappy action. When its idling crappy. stop motor and check fuel level in carb. must take the top off but its only 8 screws and a few clips. If its low then its a fuel delivery issue but usually a plugged filter or bad pump will cause trouble after a few minutes of idling or into a drive. It could even be flooding. See if the boosters are dripping fuel. thats a needle/seat issue or a electric pump with no regulator (blue or black holley)
 
Long story but, that is how they had it running. So I set basic timing at 12 btdc and now need to check total at 2700
I just realized that it was running good for him years ago with no power to electric choke. I am fixing the Dart back for him and now the choke is working. Maybe that's the problem, before the choke staying on some corrected the very lean condition. Can't drive it right now with rain and maybe snow in PA
 
Well I got it running pretty good. All I did was disconnect the electric choke that was never hooked up in the first place and it runs good.
This car is running so lean that when the choke is connected and opens up it leans out so much it will not run right. The choke blade stays about 1/2 closed giving that extra fuel to air ratio.
What now, get a new carb, but not a 1406 Edelbrock. Try and find a stock carter one or rebuild this one.
Thanks
 
Vcode said:
Well I got it running pretty good. All I did was disconnect the electric choke that was never hooked up in the first place and it runs good.
This car is running so lean that when the choke is connected and opens up it leans out so much it will not run right. The choke blade stays about 1/2 closed giving that extra fuel to air ratio.
What now, get a new carb, but not a 1406 Edelbrock. Try and find a stock carter one or rebuild this one.
Thanks
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Update: I had the carb rebuilt and run on the bench flow tester. All seems to be good. Back on the car and its doing the same thing. Mostly backfires out of the carb on accel in 1st gear and no power. Well after checking everything over again I bumped the timing up from 12 to 18 and it seemed better, I am up to 24 basic and the car seems to run better with no backfire or ping. I am going to try 26 or 28 Why does it need so much basic timing? I did a quick check on timing and had piston up and rotor on #1 and balancer on tdc 0. Any help please
Thanks Bob
 
Does it have a 'big-ish' cam? That would explain the timing numbers.
 
Bewy said:
Does it have a 'big-ish' cam? That would explain the timing numbers.
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It does not sound like it has a big cam. It sounds more stock but can't be sure not known what was done 6 years ago.
 
Yur gonna have to prove your TDC mark with a Piston stop; AND Fix the choke so it opens ALL the way and stays open. Most likely with the factory cast-iron intake, your heat cross-over passage under the intake is plugged.
But if it is not plugged, then you will have to check your cam-timing to make sure it is at least in the ballpark. You can start by rocking the crank back and forth, stopping when it hits resistance. to measure the chain-stretch.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yur gonna have to prove your TDC mark with a Piston stop; AND Fix the choke so it opens ALL the way and stays open. Most likely with the factory cast-iron intake, your heat cross-over passage under the intake is plugged.
But if it is not plugged, then you will have to check your cam-timing to make sure it is at least in the ballpark. You can start by rocking the crank back and forth, stopping when it hits resistance. to measure the chain-stretch.
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I'm with you on the cam and timing chain. A new chain was put in about 6 years ago (not by me) And we are not sure it's correct at this point. I did a quick check with Piston up and rotor on #1 and Balancer on 0 tdc but without a degree wheel. So not 100% but it's close. Thanks for the help. My friend just wants to get it running for now and just leave the timing where the car runs the best without going crazy with the engine until the winter.
Bob
 
Vcode said:
I did a quick check with Piston up and rotor on #1 and Balancer on 0 tdc
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this proves exactly nothing, except you tried, lol. The cam could be out several teeth and somebody just re-clocked the D. It looks right, but the engine is beotch to start, takes a lot of advance to run and a stinking lot of throttle the more retarded the cam is;
but it runs, between the backfiring., lol.

Vcode said:
My friend just wants to get it running for now
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Ummm ; My experience with friends is this;
1) you can do it right and it costs him money, and he hates you; or
2) you can refuse the work cuz you know how much it will cost, now he hates you more; or
3) you can fudge it up, it sorta runs, do it for free and now he hates you the most; but now he tells his friends what a chitty job you did and those friends write you off, and you go broke.

As for me, I would rather be disparaged as the first guy.
 
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I'm with you 100% about the cam and timing. It's his choice but I would like to do thinks right.
Thanks Bob
 
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