64 Valiant 2 Door Sedan Carpet Questions

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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Got my new carpet laid out in the Valiant tonight to sit there a few days to settle down and lay down against the floor before I start trimming and making holes. The only "landmark" I can see on the carpet is the "scallop" for the dimmer switch in the jute padding on the back side. That's great, as I can use that to locate the entire front piece. No problem. I got this carpet cut long, so that I could cut it how I want to and not have any short sides. So, here's my question. It's been a "while" since I took the sill plates off and removed the factory rubber mat. Does the carpet go under the inner sill plates? I certainly assume so. This car has inner and outer plates. What holds the carpet in place up on the toe boards? If I have to use an adhesive, I don't want something that has a gorilla hold, as if I ever have to remove the carpet, I don't want a fight. Also, what's a GOOD carpet cutting tool? I don't mean a POS utility knife. My hands are gettin old and arthritic and they HURT, so I need something that cuts it GOOD. Thanks for any insight.
 
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If ACC it should be molded to a point. With trimming it should rest under the steering, pedal mount and heater box stuff and more. I had a to trim several inches up there and it all tucked behind to an extent. No glue used. I got the stuff with mass backing and it is pretty stiff. It went almost up to the factory dip line on the primer. Had a least 3” to trim on the rockers to boot!
 
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If ACC it should be molded to a point. With trimming it should rest under the steering, pedal mount and heater box stuff and more. I had a to trim several inches up there and it all tucked behind to an extent. No glue used. I got the stuff with mass backing and it is pretty stiff. It went almost up to the factory dip line on the primer. Had a least 3” to trim on the rockers to boot!

Yes, there's a good bit to trim in the rocker area....and that's good. At least it won't be short. Any pictures would be a big help.
 
If I was to do it all over again. I think i would have installed the carpet at this point.

68DA8C7A-9C2B-4946-8F74-6D03E273FA5E.jpeg
 
It is easy at This level. And overlap on the firewall is not an issue. Much like I did you are dealing with all the stuff up there at your point.
 
Obviously our cars are not the same but think you get the drift!
 
Well, I'm by no means an expert; but this has always worked for me. I lay the carpet in place and let the carpet settle, as you are doing- warm weather helps, but this time of year you take what you can get. A heat gun can help with any errant wrinkles. Go to your local home improvement store and get a GOOD quality carpet knife (not a utility knife. A carpet knife has a hook on the end of the blade) and a roll of carpet tape. Trim to fit with the knife and a GOOD pair of sheet metal shears (not snips, SHEARS- the scissors looking ones. They come in handy for trimming corners and edges). I usually mark the carpet on the bottom with a Sharpie where I need to cut, so it's easier to keep track of if I flip the carpeting up to cut it. I can't emphasize enough to make sure the shears are sharp and you have a fresh blade in the knife (I sympathize with the arthritis. That's why things have to be sharp- if you try to force things along, bad things happen...). Use the carpet tape to hold things in place as you go, as you inevitably move things around as you work, and you don't want your positioning to change. The tape holds things in place nicely, and you don't have a big fight on your hands if/when you remove it next time. One sweet trick I learned (I think it was here on FABO) is to use a cheap soldering pen to make any holes you need for seatbelt bolts, seat mounts, pedal brackets, etc. Melts through like butter and seals the weave so it doesn't fray... works slicker'n stewed prunes. Can seal edges with it too. Carpet goes under the sill plates, but you MAY need longer screws than what you had with the rubber mat. I would probably trim off the jute backing where it goes under the sill plates, though.
Good luck!
 
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Well, I'm by no means an expert; but this has always worked for me. I lay the carpet in place and let the carpet settle, as you are doing- warm weather helps, but this time of year you take what you can get. A heat gun can help with any errant wrinkles. Go to your local home improvement store and get a GOOD quality carpet knife (not a utility knife. A carpet knife has a hook on the end of the blade) and a roll of carpet tape. Trim to fit with the knife and a GOOD pair of sheet metal shears (not snips, SHEARS- the scissors looking ones. They come in handy for trimming corners and edges). I usually mark the carpet on the bottom with a Sharpie where I need to cut, so it's easier to keep track of if I flip the carpeting up to cut it. I can't emphasize enough to make sure the shears are sharp and you have a fresh blade in the knife (I sympathize with the arthritis. That's why things have to be sharp- if you try to force things along, bad things happen...). Use the carpet tape to hold things in place as you go, as you inevitably move things around as you work, and you don't want your positioning to change. The tape holds things in place nicely, and you don't have a big fight on your hands if/when you remove it next time. One sweet trick I learned (I think it was here on FABO) is to use a cheap soldering pen to make any holes you need for seatbelt bolts, seat mounts, pedal brackets, etc. Melts through like butter and seals the weave so it doesn't fray... works slicker'n stewed prunes. Can seal edges with it too. Carpet goes under the sill plates, but you MAY need longer screws than what you had with the rubber mat). I would probably trim off the jute backing where it goes under the sill plates, though.
Good luck!

Stewed prunes? That's not a visual I needed. ....and the jute padding doesn't go as far as under the sill plates. Sounds like all I really need is a sharp carpet knife, I have a soldering iron.....and some good luck. Thanks yall. I will post pictures in my runnin and drivin thread when I get it done.
 
Got my new carpet laid out in the Valiant tonight to sit there a few days to settle down and lay down against the floor before I start trimming and making holes. The only "landmark" I can see on the carpet is the "scallop" for the dimmer switch in the jute padding on the back side. That's great, as I can use that to locate the entire front piece. No problem. I got this carpet cut long, so that I could cut it how I want to and not have any short sides. So, here's my question. It's been a "while" since I took the sill plates off and removed the factory rubber mat. Does the carpet go under the inner sill plates? I certainly assume so. This car has inner and outer plates. What holds the carpet in place up on the toe boards? If I have to use an adhesive, I don't want something that has a gorilla hold, as if I ever have to remove the carpet, I don't want a fight. Also, what's a GOOD carpet cutting tool? I don't mean a POS utility knife. My hands are gettin old and arthritic and they HURT, so I need something that cuts it GOOD. Thanks for any insight.


I'm 69 and stiff as all get out.installing carpet hurts me now, so I use a good set of Wiss scissors to cut my carpets out(I make about 7-11 sets a month) I cut it all from the back . Even trimming it at the sill plates. I make the seat bolt hole with a 75 watt soldering iron that has a tip that fits into the bolt holes so there is no unraveling. I use no glue on the carpet to hold it into position, I do try to put it in on the hottest days I can get though and let it set and form to the car. (I've use cinder blocks to help hold/form the corners on the darts rear section and anything heavy to help the front for before trimming of the molded carpets) I just use the Good Wiss Scissors and a decent cutting knife (not irwin) But Bosch blades and since I fold my carpet over at the trim line and cut from the back there is no need for a carpet knife(which if not used correctly can pull carpet weaves out)


Boss sewing a leather set together.
009.jpg

Custo color heed pad made for the carpet set
326.jpg


heel pad installed.
263.jpg
20180222_172044.jpg

rear section sewn and 40 oz jute glues on the bottom
20180222_172119.jpg

lincolns version of sill plate rocker parts and door panel carpet.
20180222_172324.jpg

You can see the poly backing and that the side I cut from
20180222_172331.jpg
 
My 64 b-body has a few metal brackets at the toe board and the carpet slides into them.

It also had small rectangular brackets under the inner sill plates that hold the carpet down.

Not sure if these are true for same year a-body.

I hate cutting carpet, but it did cut like butter from the back with a new blade in the box cutter.

I left it long on the sides on purpose, then drove it for a while, even though it fit and conformed extremely well. It allowed the carpet to settle more.
I ended up trimming less than I would have if I cut it to fit the first time.
 
Thank yall very much for all the advice and the recommendation for the scissors. I cannot thank you enough.
 
Was thinking about carpet today too. Im considering a couple snaps to retain it to the footboards. I dont like the look of carpet drooping if i look under the dash.
For my old truck i will need to do something as the firewall and footboard are easy to see from the seat.
 
Was thinking about carpet today too. Im considering a couple snaps to retain it to the footboards. I dont like the look of carpet drooping if i look under the dash.
For my old truck i will need to do something as the firewall and footboard are easy to see from the seat.

That's not a bad idea. I've also thought of Velcro strips.
 
If you’re going to use adhesive, get the 3M carpet and headliner adhesive in the spray can. It’s glorified contact cement in a spray can. I would consider using it up in the toe area.

I just finished 2 carpet installs, I used a carpet knife to cut, the kind with the double sided blade. It cuts cleaner than a razor knife. I also start by locating the inner seat belt holes on the hump pressing the carpet down on the hump so it’s tight, then using a soldering iron to burn those holes. Then I install the bolts with a big flat washer to hold down the carpet. Then stretch the rear floor area out to the rocker and do the same with the outer seat belt holes. Then work any wrinkles under the rear seat. Use the adhesive along the sill to hold the contour there. On the front, I measured from an exact point on each side from the back seat to the rear edge of the front carpet to make sure the front was sitting straight on the floor. It’s difficult to get it correct when you’re working around a console, or 4 speed hump. Then I used the soldering gun and burned a couple holes along that rear edge and used a couple screws with trim head washers to hold it down along that edge. I ended up leaving those screws in because they are under the seat. The screws will hold it in place while you horse around pulling the front right up under the toe area and along the sides.
 
Carpet knife,Orcon/Roberts... dont cut yourself , please.

Dbl sided .017 stainless blades will cut like a dream...and to the bone before you feel the 'burn' so be careful.

I'm in over 20yr as a carpet layer.
 
Carpet knife,Orcon/Roberts... dont cut yourself , please.

Dbl sided .017 stainless blades will cut like a dream...and to the bone before you feel the 'burn' so be careful.

I'm in over 20yr as a carpet layer.

I cut myself with mine, and I worked in carpet for years as well. Proves you’re never to old to do stupid shtuff!
 
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