64 Valiant 2 Door Sedan Carpet Questions

Mopar Interiors

  1. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    Got my new carpet laid out in the Valiant tonight to sit there a few days to settle down and lay down against the floor before I start trimming and making holes. The only "landmark" I can see on the carpet is the "scallop" for the dimmer switch in the jute padding on the back side. That's great, as I can use that to locate the entire front piece. No problem. I got this carpet cut long, so that I could cut it how I want to and not have any short sides. So, here's my question. It's been a "while" since I took the sill plates off and removed the factory rubber mat. Does the carpet go under the inner sill plates? I certainly assume so. This car has inner and outer plates. What holds the carpet in place up on the toe boards? If I have to use an adhesive, I don't want something that has a gorilla hold, as if I ever have to remove the carpet, I don't want a fight. Also, what's a GOOD carpet cutting tool? I don't mean a POS utility knife. My hands are gettin old and arthritic and they HURT, so I need something that cuts it GOOD. Thanks for any insight.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
  2. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    If ACC it should be molded to a point. With trimming it should rest under the steering, pedal mount and heater box stuff and more. I had a to trim several inches up there and it all tucked behind to an extent. No glue used. I got the stuff with mass backing and it is pretty stiff. It went almost up to the factory dip line on the primer. Had a least 3” to trim on the rockers to boot!
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
  3. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    Yes, there's a good bit to trim in the rocker area....and that's good. At least it won't be short. Any pictures would be a big help.
     
  4. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    If I was to do it all over again. I think i would have installed the carpet at this point.

    68DA8C7A-9C2B-4946-8F74-6D03E273FA5E.jpeg
     
  5. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    It is easy at This level. And overlap on the firewall is not an issue. Much like I did you are dealing with all the stuff up there at your point.
     
  6. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Obviously our cars are not the same but think you get the drift!
     
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    • Professor Fate

      Professor Fate Push the button, Max...

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      Well, I'm by no means an expert; but this has always worked for me. I lay the carpet in place and let the carpet settle, as you are doing- warm weather helps, but this time of year you take what you can get. A heat gun can help with any errant wrinkles. Go to your local home improvement store and get a GOOD quality carpet knife (not a utility knife. A carpet knife has a hook on the end of the blade) and a roll of carpet tape. Trim to fit with the knife and a GOOD pair of sheet metal shears (not snips, SHEARS- the scissors looking ones. They come in handy for trimming corners and edges). I usually mark the carpet on the bottom with a Sharpie where I need to cut, so it's easier to keep track of if I flip the carpeting up to cut it. I can't emphasize enough to make sure the shears are sharp and you have a fresh blade in the knife (I sympathize with the arthritis. That's why things have to be sharp- if you try to force things along, bad things happen...). Use the carpet tape to hold things in place as you go, as you inevitably move things around as you work, and you don't want your positioning to change. The tape holds things in place nicely, and you don't have a big fight on your hands if/when you remove it next time. One sweet trick I learned (I think it was here on FABO) is to use a cheap soldering pen to make any holes you need for seatbelt bolts, seat mounts, pedal brackets, etc. Melts through like butter and seals the weave so it doesn't fray... works slicker'n stewed prunes. Can seal edges with it too. Carpet goes under the sill plates, but you MAY need longer screws than what you had with the rubber mat. I would probably trim off the jute backing where it goes under the sill plates, though.
      Good luck!
       
      Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
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      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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        Stewed prunes? That's not a visual I needed. ....and the jute padding doesn't go as far as under the sill plates. Sounds like all I really need is a sharp carpet knife, I have a soldering iron.....and some good luck. Thanks yall. I will post pictures in my runnin and drivin thread when I get it done.
         
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        • 66Dvert

          66Dvert Working on my custom car parts again! FABO Gold Member

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          I'm 69 and stiff as all get out.installing carpet hurts me now, so I use a good set of Wiss scissors to cut my carpets out(I make about 7-11 sets a month) I cut it all from the back . Even trimming it at the sill plates. I make the seat bolt hole with a 75 watt soldering iron that has a tip that fits into the bolt holes so there is no unraveling. I use no glue on the carpet to hold it into position, I do try to put it in on the hottest days I can get though and let it set and form to the car. (I've use cinder blocks to help hold/form the corners on the darts rear section and anything heavy to help the front for before trimming of the molded carpets) I just use the Good Wiss Scissors and a decent cutting knife (not irwin) But Bosch blades and since I fold my carpet over at the trim line and cut from the back there is no need for a carpet knife(which if not used correctly can pull carpet weaves out)


          Boss sewing a leather set together.
          009.jpg
          Custo color heed pad made for the carpet set
          326.jpg

          heel pad installed.
          263.jpg 20180222_172044.jpg
          rear section sewn and 40 oz jute glues on the bottom
          20180222_172119.jpg
          lincolns version of sill plate rocker parts and door panel carpet.
          20180222_172324.jpg
          You can see the poly backing and that the side I cut from
          20180222_172331.jpg
           
        • matthon

          matthon Well-Known Member

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          My 64 b-body has a few metal brackets at the toe board and the carpet slides into them.

          It also had small rectangular brackets under the inner sill plates that hold the carpet down.

          Not sure if these are true for same year a-body.

          I hate cutting carpet, but it did cut like butter from the back with a new blade in the box cutter.

          I left it long on the sides on purpose, then drove it for a while, even though it fit and conformed extremely well. It allowed the carpet to settle more.
          I ended up trimming less than I would have if I cut it to fit the first time.
           
        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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          Thank yall very much for all the advice and the recommendation for the scissors. I cannot thank you enough.
           
        • Tooljunkie

          Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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          Was thinking about carpet today too. Im considering a couple snaps to retain it to the footboards. I dont like the look of carpet drooping if i look under the dash.
          For my old truck i will need to do something as the firewall and footboard are easy to see from the seat.
           
        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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          That's not a bad idea. I've also thought of Velcro strips.
           
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