'65 Barracuda drivetrain swap

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D. Driver

D. Driver

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Ok, my daily transportation is in need of some attention. The 318 is out of an early 80's Ramcharger with unknown miles and 904 is still the cable shifted original, odometer show 137K. The motor is burning and leaking a quart of oil every 300 miles and transmission is leaking at the front seal and slips going into 2nd when pressed hard. I have an opportunity to get the motor and trans out of an '86 5th Avenue with less than 90K that was wrecked in the rear quarter panel, costs more to repair than the car is worth.
I'm not worried about the motor swap, but what parts am I going to need to make the new trans work? Should I ditch the original console shifter and go with a Lokar set up, which looks pretty straight forward, or try to fabricate a bracket to use the original cables?
 
BnM make cables to work with your shifter with slight modification for a 727 , then your going to need a drive shaft personally I would rebuild the 904 save cash and problems . g/l if you need interior or exterior parts I have a parts car sitting here I am parting out 64 ,65 barracuda
 
Be sure to get the driveshaft from the 5th Avenue. You can get it cut down to fit. You can get a cable to work with your original shifter, or just get a B&M shifter from Summit or Jegs. You may need to change the speedometer pinion in the new 904 to match the gear in your cars rearend. Good luck.
 
Take the whole drivetrain and shorten the driveshaft to make it work. YOu will have to plug the smog holes on the 86 318 with little allen screws, but this way there would be no modifications to the original trans. Just hold on to the trans that you are taking out. YOu may even want to use the disk brakes from the 5th Ave. I did the same thing a few years back. Used a column linkage shifter from a 66 Valiant, though, in the car.
 
Imperial Services lists a conversion cable to use your existing shifter with a later transmission. I don't know if a universal cable can be adapted, but it may be possible. You'll need a speedometer cable housing from a 66, or a custom made housing. You'll need to have a later slip-yoke driveshaft shortened. The later transmission cooler lines might be larger.

Unless you really want a lock-up transmission, the best bet might be to grab the low gear set from the later transmission and install it in the 65 while you rebuild it.
 
I would adjust the bands and replace the seal and filter in your current 904. Should take an hour or so to do including removal and re install.
 
I am kinda curious about how you got the early torque convertor required for the 1965 trans mounted to the later crankshaft. The 273 crank hub/convertor pilot was smaller than later engines which means without a special spacer ring your torque convertor doesn't locate properly on the crankshaft. That could be why your front trans seal is leaking the convertor may have some run out.

I recall member "CharlieS" as being a good source of the convertor spacers.

I would retain my original trans just to not have to bother with kickdown linkages, speedo cables, shift linkages, driveshafts.
 
mcnoople that is a good question, I've never had the inspection cover off and the swap was done by my brother in law MANY years ago. The car never got driven much afterward, then sat behind a barn for 15 years before I started messing with it last summer. I'll try and find time to pull the cover this weekend. Thanks for all the good advise.
 
there are shifters -- that will fit in your 65 console --with out much modification-- there is a thread on this --will have to try & find it)

if the newer motor tranny are in good running shape -- I would go that route add a shifter that fits your console -- done!!

Lawrence
 
Pat Blais transmission sells the adaptor ring to space the converter. Seattle Wa. also known as torqueflight patty 206-365-1966
 
I had a chance to pull the inspection cover over the weekend and found that the torque convertor is definitely not centered on the crankshaft. With the engine idling I could see at least 1/8 inch run out. I guess it's time to order the correct adaptor and pull it apart. Thanks for all the replies
 
Explains the fluid leak from the front seal of the tranny. I got the adapter ring from Charlie_S here for $20. Don't fault the engine too quick. Have you done a compression check? Do you see a lot of blow-by and puffing out the oil filler hole with the PCV removed (bad rings)? Blue smoke can be valve stem leaks (can fix w/ umbrella seals) or sucking oil into the PCV (simple fix).
 
D. Driver said:
I had a chance to pull the inspection cover over the weekend and found that the torque convertor is definitely not centered on the crankshaft. With the engine idling I could see at least 1/8 inch run out. I guess it's time to order the correct adaptor and pull it apart. Thanks for all the replies
Click to expand...

Yippee now I feel smart. The little hub ring is something that most mopar guys have never had to deal with so most aren't too aware of it.
 
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