65 Dart [ Build Info Needed ]

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SS Lancer

SS Lancer

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Hello , Gents found a decent 65 Dart Gt but want to check with you all about the pro&cons of this era Dart versus later models etc . How much tire can this accept - can all the Mopar goodies to move springs inboard etc fit these years , thanks Chris PS I would like to install bigblock to
 
Any thing can be done if you have the skills to proform the necessary mofications. Or the funds to have a shop do the work if it is out of your skill set.
 
A-body rear suspensions is A-body rear suspensions. You can use any of the commonly available kits to move the springs inboard. Compared to 67 and later Darts...

Pro: Lighter, unique styling.

Con: Narrower engine bay, later cars were built to accept a big block. A big block can be installed in a 65, but will require custom headers. Unique styling, almost no exterior trim parts are being reproduced.
 
The next post was a lot more informative for the relative newcomer. Good luck on your project. Personally, I like small blocks better in early A bodies and even they are pretty tight in the narrow engine room. I think the '67 - up cars were about 2-3 inches wider and that small change made big block production cars possible.

That said, a low deck 400 with aluminum heads and manifold wouldn't weigh a LOT more than an all iron small block. I remember seing "somewhere" that the low deck engines will slide into an early A lots easier, and a 426 crank in a 400 block can be done. So, kinda like that other guy said, "Speed costs money - how fast do ya wanna go? How's THAT for informative, huh? To quote a nasty little goblin in an old movie: "Sometimes I just crack me up!"

BC
 
One thing to consider is the lack of header room for the big block. Stay 400 block or 383, stroke them for cubes. I have a thread here on a home made rack and pinion plus coilover conversion which will free up a ton of room for headers. That also allows modifying the crossmember that houses the torsion bar rear mounts, which is probably not notched for dual exhaust. Newer Mustang wheels will get you some decent tire sizes under there but if you go too deep on offset it may require triangular after market upper control arms to clear the rims on the top. I have 6.3 back space 18 inchers on my 65 and had to go that route. If I recall, I went with a 225x 40 x 18 tire? Be carefull with the rims after mounting, as the tires don't stick out at all on some smaller ones, allowing the rims to get scratched if they fall over on the outward side. BTDT. A 727 will fit by a touch of hammering on the seam in the middle of the trans tunnel, and there are aftermarket motor mounts from Schumacher. This car is a long wheelbase A body, so if you are leaning towards a bigblock, for some traction the lowdeck/aluminum heads really helps, along with putting the battery in the trunk. Mancini has frame connecters (I believe,check it out) and moving the rear springs into the frame rails out back will allow the use of the same Mustang (in my case five spoke polished 18 inchers off a 06 Mustang GT) Setting the axle back 1/2 inch is what I did to make room for the tires in back, but be sure to have everything on hand to trial fit before welding, as that gets you real close the the gas tank with some rear axles. A perfect, cheap match is an axle out of a Ford Explorer. The rear 18x8 wheels fit like the rear was made for the car if the springs are moved in. The explorer rear 8.8 comes in 3.55 3.73 and 3.91 ratios, with posi and discs as stock in most 96 and newer Explorers. Be sure to get the companion flange, flange bolts, and the stub of the rear driveshaft if you can because you will need those parts to build a shaft for it. The brake lines can be hooked up by using two off the same side of the 8.8, can't remember which, I think it is the Drivrers side. Hope this gives you some good ideas. These cars look great with the side trim removed also.
 

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440's fit, some assembly required. Batteries not included.
 
gregsdart said:
One thing to consider is the lack of header room for the big block. Stay 400 block or 383, stroke them for cubes. I have a thread here on a home made rack and pinion plus coilover conversion which will free up a ton of room for headers. That also allows modifying the crossmember that houses the torsion bar rear mounts, which is probably not notched for dual exhaust. Newer Mustang wheels will get you some decent tire sizes under there but if you go too deep on offset it may require triangular after market upper control arms to clear the rims on the top. I have 6.3 back space 18 inchers on my 65 and had to go that route. If I recall, I went with a 225x 40 x 18 tire? Be carefull with the rims after mounting, as the tires don't stick out at all on some smaller ones, allowing the rims to get scratched if they fall over on the outward side. BTDT. A 727 will fit by a touch of hammering on the seam in the middle of the trans tunnel, and there are aftermarket motor mounts from Schumacher. This car is a long wheelbase A body, so if you are leaning towards a bigblock, for some traction the lowdeck/aluminum heads really helps, along with putting the battery in the trunk. Mancini has frame connecters (I believe,check it out) and moving the rear springs into the frame rails out back will allow the use of the same Mustang (in my case five spoke polished 18 inchers off a 06 Mustang GT) Setting the axle back 1/2 inch is what I did to make room for the tires in back, but be sure to have everything on hand to trial fit before welding, as that gets you real close the the gas tank with some rear axles. A perfect, cheap match is an axle out of a Ford Explorer. The rear 18x8 wheels fit like the rear was made for the car if the springs are moved in. The explorer rear 8.8 comes in 3.55 3.73 and 3.91 ratios, with posi and discs as stock in most 96 and newer Explorers. Be sure to get the companion flange, flange bolts, and the stub of the rear driveshaft if you can because you will need those parts to build a shaft for it. The brake lines can be hooked up by using two off the same side of the 8.8, can't remember which, I think it is the Drivrers side. Hope this gives you some good ideas. These cars look great with the side trim removed also.
Click to expand...
U are correct side trim needs to go thankyou Chris
 
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