65 Dart Revisited II

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Hi 65. I bought the NOICO through Amazon. Far less in prices, and the product has good reviews. Thanks. Jerry

Hello All. Another update on my Revisited II. Since I last posted, I made an attempt at installing the headliner.....It did not turn out too bad, but for a few wrinkles. They tell me a heat gun or steaming will take these wrinkles out, but I am a bit hesitant as I was cautioned on too much heat. As well, I installed the exterior rear upper quarter trim, the rear window and its trim along with the inner and outer roof rail trim. I found out, today, that my front windshield is in at Auto City Classic/Classic Auto Glass which is located in Isanti, Minnesota.....so a road trip is in the near future. This company is about an hour north of Minneapolis. He just got shipment in, so he does have some Early A body front windshields in stock. Their Phone Number is as follows: 1-800-828-2212.....Denny is the contact name. Regarding the headliner, this is my first attempt at that job, so considering, I can accept the few wrinkles, unless someone has some tips on taking these wrinkles out....please!!! I would like to give a THANK YOU shout to 65 Dartman on his....."over the phone" tutorial on headliner installation. Don, as always, I do appreciate your time and for you taking me under your talented Mopar wing!!! The FSM has a color code on the front to back/back to front where each bow should go. A reminder, as a checklist is always in order....the dome light wiring needs to be installed prior to the headliner....my wife caught me on this one, otherwise I would not have that dome light in the car....thanks Mary Jo. On my rear window, I installed a used window as finding a repop or an NOS is more scarce than hen's teeth. I had two rear windows from my parts cars, and I chose the best of the two. There are a few scratches in the used window I chose.....I think Meecum and Barret Jackson call this "Patina." BTW, the front windshield was quite reasonable in price. As I commented, I installed the rear window chrome trim. So with that said, the outer trim goes on first, along with the window clips. This is an important sequence as if you install the window first, it will be impossible, or near impossible, to install the outer trim clips. There are a number of valuable videos on installing a windshield or rear window using a gasket seal using the "Rope Trick" on YouTube. They recommend using a 1/8 inch cotton rope, but I fund that using a 1/4 inch cotton close line rope works a bit better since it spreads the gasket gap a bit more making it easier to insert into/over the pinch weld. After the window is installed, then the inner trim can be installed upon the clips. I placed a slight bead of window sealant under the outer trim, and a slight bead under the outer window seal on the pinch weld. I read that it is best to use a sealant that remains, somewhat, flexible with regard to movement on the glass, and for the potential of removal at some time in the future. On the Headliner inner trim, this trim butts, parallel, to the roof rail where the roof rail, in what I used, was a seal using a closed cell foam. I found this easier as when I took the car apart, there was some sort of mastic where they glued/caulked the roof rail/window channel to the head. This mastic turned very hard, and I would question the sealing capability. As well, it was quite a mess to clean off. I bought a set of new inner screws from Classic Industries. This set is nicely marked and numbered, as to where they go regarding installation. I also installed the quarter trim and the package tray. The package tray came from Legendary. You will note that the interior quarter trim is painted yellow, and the roof rail headliner trim is painted matte black. I know this is not the OEM color scheme, but, when the doors were painted, it was much easier to paint yellow all the way around. That is about the update for now, but things are moving forward nicely. Again, I hope to be on the road by June 1st. Thank you for following along on my 65 Dodge Dart Revisited II build. As some of you know, I had a 65 Dart Charger back in 71.....right out of High School.....as a foolish kid, I destroyed the car within a few years....too much showing off, and too much fun with it....a price paid!!!! I am, very much, looking forward to getting behind the wheel of this great old Mopar once again. Best to all, and thanks to all of those who have helped me along the way. FABO is a wonderful place to be when putting a project like this together as there is a tremendous amount of knowledge and talent within our great members. Most, I found, are very very willing to share their skills and they are a tremendously great help in finding the parts which I needed to complete this great car. Thank you to all. I will post a few more pics on my recent work. sgrip65

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Hello All. Another update on my Revisited II. Since I last posted, I made an attempt at installing the headliner.....It did not turn out too bad, but for a few wrinkles. They tell me a heat gun or steaming will take these wrinkles out, but I am a bit hesitant as I was cautioned on too much heat. As well, I installed the exterior rear upper quarter trim, the rear window and its trim along with the inner and outer roof rail trim. I found out, today, that my front windshield is in at Auto City Classic/Classic Auto Glass which is located in Isanti, Minnesota.....so a road trip is in the near future. This company is about an hour north of Minneapolis. He just got shipment in, so he does have some Early A body front windshields in stock. Their Phone Number is as follows: 1-800-828-2212.....Denny is the contact name. Regarding the headliner, this is my first attempt at that job, so considering, I can accept the few wrinkles, unless someone has some tips on taking these wrinkles out....please!!! I would like to give a THANK YOU shout to 65 Dartman on his....."over the phone" tutorial on headliner installation. Don, as always, I do appreciate your time and for you taking me under your talented Mopar wing!!! The FSM has a color code on the front to back/back to front where each bow should go. A reminder, as a checklist is always in order....the dome light wiring needs to be installed prior to the headliner....my wife caught me on this one, otherwise I would not have that dome light in the car....thanks Mary Jo. On my rear window, I installed a used window as finding a repop or an NOS is more scarce than hen's teeth. I had two rear windows from my parts cars, and I chose the best of the two. There are a few scratches in the used window I chose.....I think Meecum and Barret Jackson call this "Patina." BTW, the front windshield was quite reasonable in price. As I commented, I installed the rear window chrome trim. So with that said, the outer trim goes on first, along with the window clips. This is an important sequence as if you install the window first, it will be impossible, or near impossible, to install the outer trim clips. There are a number of valuable videos on installing a windshield or rear window using a gasket seal using the "Rope Trick" on YouTube. They recommend using a 1/8 inch cotton rope, but I fund that using a 1/4 inch cotton close line rope works a bit better since it spreads the gasket gap a bit more making it easier to insert into/over the pinch weld. After the window is installed, then the inner trim can be installed upon the clips. I placed a slight bead of window sealant under the outer trim, and a slight bead under the outer window seal on the pinch weld. I read that it is best to use a sealant that remains, somewhat, flexible with regard to movement on the glass, and for the potential of removal at some time in the future. On the Headliner inner trim, this trim butts, parallel, to the roof rail where the roof rail, in what I used, was a seal using a closed cell foam. I found this easier as when I took the car apart, there was some sort of mastic where they glued/caulked the roof rail/window channel to the head. This mastic turned very hard, and I would question the sealing capability. As well, it was quite a mess to clean off. I bought a set of new inner screws from Classic Industries. This set is nicely marked and numbered, as to where they go regarding installation. I also installed the quarter trim and the package tray. The package tray came from Legendary. You will note that the interior quarter trim is painted yellow, and the roof rail headliner trim is painted matte black. I know this is not the OEM color scheme, but, when the doors were painted, it was much easier to paint yellow all the way around. That is about the update for now, but things are moving forward nicely. Again, I hope to be on the road by June 1st. Thank you for following along on my 65 Dodge Dart Revisited II build. As some of you know, I had a 65 Dart Charger back in 71.....right out of High School.....as a foolish kid, I destroyed the car within a few years....too much showing off, and too much fun with it....a price paid!!!! I am, very much, looking forward to getting behind the wheel of this great old Mopar once again. Best to all, and thanks to all of those who have helped me along the way. FABO is a wonderful place to be when putting a project like this together as there is a tremendous amount of knowledge and talent within our great members. Most, I found, are very very willing to share their skills and they are a tremendously great help in finding the parts which I needed to complete this great car. Thank you to all. I will post a few more pics on my recent work. sgrip65

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Members, I have a few more pics regarding my latest work on my 65 Dart Charger Clone. My next work will be to pick up my front windshield, install the dash, build the doors, and upholster the front buckets and the rear seats. Hopefully, I can post an update within the upcoming week. Thanks for following. Best, and thanks for the help. sgrip65

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Jerry! Are you gonna keep the yellow paint on the upper inner quarter? If you go with black interior it should be black paint if you are going factory route.
 
Jerry! Are you gonna keep the yellow paint on the upper inner quarter? If you go with black interior it should be black paint if you are going factory route.
Hi Ulf. Yes, I am going to keep it yellow on the upper inner quarter. I know it is not OEM, but It just made things a bit easier when painting the doors. I painted the doors yellow all the way around, and this follows through. Yeah, I know it is not OEM paint scheme. Thanks for the comment. Best. sgrip65
 
For those who are following my build, yes, it has been a while, but some progress has been made. I do have the engine built and placed upon the K-Frame and dolly. As well, I installed the NOICO....similar to Hush Mat sound deadening a few weeks ago, and the Vinyl Top with trim was completed today. On my 66, I bought the vinyl top from a popular online vendor of Mopar Parts, but this time, I purchased the material DLT Upholstery Supply in Warrenville, Illinois. The material I bought was 2 yards of 49 inch material in Landau T 848, 49 inch Levant Black 04. My 66 top cost over $200.00, and DLT charged $34.52 which included shipping. Pays to shop around. Progress should pick up now that what remains is the assembly of the new/painted/rebuilt parts. I will post some additional pics on the vinyl top install. Thanks for following. sgrip65

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Hello Members. Another Update on my 65 GT II Revisited Charger Clone. I purchased my seat covers for the project from Legendary Upholstery. I have to say that this company is just plain great when it comes to workmanship and service. I watched the videos on YouTube, and Ron did the narration, where Randy demonstrated the install. Despite the great narration and the demonstration, I still had a few questions, and Ron took the calls, and he was extremely helpful walking us through the installation. I am certain that our work is not as nice as Legendary's, but I think the few wrinkles which I have will work themselves out. Anyway, the wrinkles worked themselves out on our 66 Dart seats which we also purchased from Legendary. My wife suggested, on the bucket back rests and seat using the Legendary Foam Forms, to sprinkle some talcum powder on the foam forms prior to stretching the vinyl covers. She said that this might help the vinyl covers to slide a bit easier on the foam forms, and it did work well. The vinyl seat cover backs tended to stick, create adhesive friction, on the foam forms which made it harder to manipulate the forms as we stretched the covers. We found that this trick worked well, but I do not know if Legendary would approve of the talcum. I have to say that Randy, from Legendary, must have extremely strong fingers and wrists to be able to stretch and pull the vinyl as quickly and as tightly as he does...doing it by himself. Randy is the head installer at Legendary shown in the YouTube vids. Anyway, what remains is the lower bench seat rear, and we will get that tackled tomorrow along with my wife's help. She has been a tremendous help throughout this project. Actually, she should have her own name on FABO for all of the help she provides. Enclosed are some pics of the completed bucket seats and the bucket backs, and the back rest for the rear. Thanks for watching. If you purchase upholstery for your project, I have to say that Legendary is the cat's meow. I hope to be on the road by Mid-May. Thanks again for all the help that all of our members have given throughout this build. Best to you. sgrip65

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Hello Members. Another Update on my 65 GT II Revisited Charger Clone. I purchased my seat covers for the project from Legendary Upholstery. I have to say that this company is just plain great when it comes to workmanship and service. I watched the videos on YouTube, and Ron did the narration, where Randy demonstrated the install. Despite the great narration and the demonstration, I still had a few questions, and Ron took the calls, and he was extremely helpful walking us through the installation. I am certain that our work is not as nice as Legendary's, but I think the few wrinkles which I have will work themselves out. Anyway, the wrinkles worked themselves out on our 66 Dart seats which we also purchased from Legendary. My wife suggested, on the bucket back rests and seat using the Legendary Foam Forms, to sprinkle some talcum powder on the foam forms prior to stretching the vinyl covers. She said that this might help the vinyl covers to slide a bit easier on the foam forms, and it did work well. The vinyl seat cover backs tended to stick, create adhesive friction, on the foam forms which made it harder to manipulate the forms as we stretched the covers. We found that this trick worked well, but I do not know if Legendary would approve of the talcum. I have to say that Randy, from Legendary, must have extremely strong fingers and wrists to be able to stretch and pull the vinyl as quickly and as tightly as he does...doing it by himself. Randy is the head installer at Legendary shown in the YouTube vids. Anyway, what remains is the lower bench seat rear, and we will get that tackled tomorrow along with my wife's help. She has been a tremendous help throughout this project. Actually, she should have her own name on FABO for all of the help she provides. Enclosed are some pics of the completed bucket seats and the bucket backs, and the back rest for the rear. Thanks for watching. If you purchase upholstery for your project, I have to say that Legendary is the cat's meow. I hope to be on the road by Mid-May. Thanks again for all the help that all of our members have given throughout this build. Best to you. sgrip65

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Hello Members. I finished my rear seat bench upholstery this morning, and it was a challenge. I found it best to remove the old burlap and cotton batting that was under the original seat. I tried to re-use the pad prep that was there, but wound up with a bunch of wrinkles which would not stretch out. Anyway, I removed it all, and I went by Legendary's video using new burlap, and one inch HD foam over the burlap. Apparently, I must have stretched the vinyl a bit too much on my first try, so I added a one inch cotton pad over the foam....this stuff compresses to near nothing. I mentioned talcum powder in my earlier post, but I found what works even better as a slip sheet between the seat cover and the pad is a piece of 3M masking light weight film...plastic. The seat cover stretches nicely over the film, and it does not bind or have any friction. Made the job much easier. There are a few wrinkles....hardly noticeable, and I think these wrinkles will work themselves out. The seats are complete, and now it is on to the carpet, window glass, and door panels. Enclosed are some photos of the finished rear seat bench. I am picking up my front windshield this weekend from Classic Auto Glass in Isanti, Minnesota. Again, a great price on the windshield, and I have their phone number listed in one of my previous posts. New, not used, for a great price. I understand that rear windows are no longer available from any source....Am I correct on this? Thanks for following. sgrip65

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Hello Members. I finished my rear seat bench upholstery this morning, and it was a challenge. I found it best to remove the old burlap and cotton batting that was under the original seat. I tried to re-use the pad prep that was there, but wound up with a bunch of wrinkles which would not stretch out. Anyway, I removed it all, and I went by Legendary's video using new burlap, and one inch HD foam over the burlap. Apparently, I must have stretched the vinyl a bit too much on my first try, so I added a one inch cotton pad over the foam....this stuff compresses to near nothing. I mentioned talcum powder in my earlier post, but I found what works even better as a slip sheet between the seat cover and the pad is a piece of 3M masking light weight film...plastic. The seat cover stretches nicely over the film, and it does not bind or have any friction. Made the job much easier. There are a few wrinkles....hardly noticeable, and I think these wrinkles will work themselves out. The seats are complete, and now it is on to the carpet, window glass, and door panels. Enclosed are some photos of the finished rear seat bench. I am picking up my front windshield this weekend from Classic Auto Glass in Isanti, Minnesota. Again, a great price on the windshield, and I have their phone number listed in one of my previous posts. New, not used, for a great price. I understand that rear windows are no longer available from any source....Am I correct on this? Thanks for following. sgrip65

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Members. Today, I began putting my deck lid together. It takes a while to remember how things go together, but, after a while, the BRAIN lights go back on. I installed the tail lights on the car, and I installed the tail lights into the deck lid. I installed the the deck lid bezel and trim, and tomorrow, I will install the deck lid onto the car. I will post the completed progress again tomorrow. I have to say that polishing the anodized and the stainless ahead of time takes the work out of the trim re-installation. Hope all is well with everyone's projects. Thanks for following. sgrip65

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Members. Today, I began putting my deck lid together. It takes a while to remember how things go together, but, after a while, the BRAIN lights go back on. I installed the tail lights on the car, and I installed the tail lights into the deck lid. I installed the the deck lid bezel and trim, and tomorrow, I will install the deck lid onto the car. I will post the completed progress again tomorrow. I have to say that polishing the anodized and the stainless ahead of time takes the work out of the trim re-installation. Hope all is well with everyone's projects. Thanks for following. sgrip65

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Hello Members. Good thing to be able to spell....at least the word D O D G E....as I got the letters on the decklid in the right order. I installed the wiring harness to the trunk area today along with installing the deck lid. It was kind of hard to get the margin correct around the perimeter along with the height matching to the top of the rear fenders, but, close enough. I found the DODGE letters, and I installed them as well. Tomorrow, I am going to install the gas filler tube along with the gas tank...possibly the rear bumper. Would anyone know the correct position of the jack instruction sheet shown in pic 004? I think it goes somewhere on the underside of the deck lid, but where...exactly. I bought my deck lid gasket from DMT, and there was an adequate amount for installation with about 30 inches left over. I adhered the gasket with some left-over vinyl top adhesive which I applied to the truck opening edge and the back-side of the gasket with a wide artist brush. There was not any degree of masking but for the bottom edge of the trunk opening. One other item to discuss is that the painting was done in groups where the body was done as a separate unit; with that said, the doors, hood, fenders, and decklid were done at another time. We used PPG DBC and 4000 Clear coat with a medium reducer. I was concerned, having these parts painted at a different time regarding color match, but the decklid and the body seem to match nicely. First time today that I could note one part against the other. I was happy about that. Anyway, that is it for today, and I may post the gas tank install tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help and for following my build. sgrip65

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Hello Members. Good thing to be able to spell....at least the word D O D G E....as I got the letters on the decklid in the right order. I installed the wiring harness to the trunk area today along with installing the deck lid. It was kind of hard to get the margin correct around the perimeter along with the height matching to the top of the rear fenders, but, close enough. I found the DODGE letters, and I installed them as well. Tomorrow, I am going to install the gas filler tube along with the gas tank...possibly the rear bumper. Would anyone know the correct position of the jack instruction sheet shown in pic 004? I think it goes somewhere on the underside of the deck lid, but where...exactly. I bought my deck lid gasket from DMT, and there was an adequate amount for installation with about 30 inches left over. I adhered the gasket with some left-over vinyl top adhesive which I applied to the truck opening edge and the back-side of the gasket with a wide artist brush. There was not any degree of masking but for the bottom edge of the trunk opening. One other item to discuss is that the painting was done in groups where the body was done as a separate unit; with that said, the doors, hood, fenders, and decklid were done at another time. We used PPG DBC and 4000 Clear coat with a medium reducer. I was concerned, having these parts painted at a different time regarding color match, but the decklid and the body seem to match nicely. First time today that I could note one part against the other. I was happy about that. Anyway, that is it for today, and I may post the gas tank install tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help and for following my build. sgrip65

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Hello Members. I did get my rear side glass installed which was a bit of a challenge.....read the directions first, and take good notes. I did not do that. Anyway, the two door hard top does not use that lift triangle piece as the sedan does shown in pic Window Lifts II, 001. That is where I ran into a bind, and I had to do some additional research....but there it was under 2dr HT rear glass right in the FSM. The 2dr HT uses a lift bar on the rear side glass as shown in the pic marked Rear Glass Lift Bar 001 and shown installed in pic #Gas Tank and Rear Side Glass 004. I also installed the gas tank. Just a note, install the gas tank first, then install the filler tube as it is near impossible to do it the other way around. As well, be sure the sending unit wiring is not tucked up under between the top of the gas tank and the trunk floor before tightening the J-Hook.....yeah, that is what I did x**$^^^-. I had to loosen the J-Hook from the gas tank strap to get it back out. Nobody else would do that, I am sure...just me. Seems I make a bunch of extra work for myself. Tomorrow, I am going to start assembling the doors. BTW, I bought a jack instruction decal from Classic Industries a while back. Would anyone know the OEM spot to place this decal? Thanks for the information and for following along. sgrip65

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Looking good Jerry! I would be proud to drive it! You need to drive it to the Nationals!
 
Looking good Jerry! I would be proud to drive it! You need to drive it to the Nationals!

Hello Don. Thanks for the comments...as always. If I bring the car to the Nationals, I will borrow a friends enclosed trailer for transport. My old '03 Chevy....(Bad Word to some....CHEVY), has the gumption to manage the pull. It would be fun to show the car after these past three to four years of effort on the build. Again, thanks to you and to so many others who have helped me with parts, advice, and guidance along the way. Indeed, FABO is a great place to be with a group of talented members who are so very willing to share their expertise. Thanks to all. I am hoping that I can share what I have learned with new members of our Forum as the time goes on. Best. sgrip65
 
Hello Members. Another Update on my 65 GT II Revisited Charger Clone. I purchased my seat covers for the project from Legendary Upholstery. I have to say that this company is just plain great when it comes to workmanship and service. I watched the videos on YouTube, and Ron did the narration, where Randy demonstrated the install. Despite the great narration and the demonstration, I still had a few questions, and Ron took the calls, and he was extremely helpful walking us through the installation. I am certain that our work is not as nice as Legendary's, but I think the few wrinkles which I have will work themselves out. Anyway, the wrinkles worked themselves out on our 66 Dart seats which we also purchased from Legendary. My wife suggested, on the bucket back rests and seat using the Legendary Foam Forms, to sprinkle some talcum powder on the foam forms prior to stretching the vinyl covers. She said that this might help the vinyl covers to slide a bit easier on the foam forms, and it did work well. The vinyl seat cover backs tended to stick, create adhesive friction, on the foam forms which made it harder to manipulate the forms as we stretched the covers. We found that this trick worked well, but I do not know if Legendary would approve of the talcum. I have to say that Randy, from Legendary, must have extremely strong fingers and wrists to be able to stretch and pull the vinyl as quickly and as tightly as he does...doing it by himself. Randy is the head installer at Legendary shown in the YouTube vids. Anyway, what remains is the lower bench seat rear, and we will get that tackled tomorrow along with my wife's help. She has been a tremendous help throughout this project. Actually, she should have her own name on FABO for all of the help she provides. Enclosed are some pics of the completed bucket seats and the bucket backs, and the back rest for the rear. Thanks for watching. If you purchase upholstery for your project, I have to say that Legendary is the cat's meow. I hope to be on the road by Mid-May. Thanks again for all the help that all of our members have given throughout this build. Best to you. sgrip65

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The seats look great Jerry! For my new Dartcharger I will use our wifes idea when installing the seat covers. Thanks!
 
Members. Today, I began putting my deck lid together. It takes a while to remember how things go together, but, after a while, the BRAIN lights go back on. I installed the tail lights on the car, and I installed the tail lights into the deck lid. I installed the the deck lid bezel and trim, and tomorrow, I will install the deck lid onto the car. I will post the completed progress again tomorrow. I have to say that polishing the anodized and the stainless ahead of time takes the work out of the trim re-installation. Hope all is well with everyone's projects. Thanks for following. sgrip65

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Jerry! Just from looking at your pictures I get flashbacks from the assembly time. I think it's the best moment on a restoration. Polishing the stainless steel mouldings takes time. Lots of time! But the result looks great on your car. Did you get new clips or could you re-use the old ones? When you add the big panel on the trunk, don't forget the tejp that covers the holes between thr trunk lights.
 
Hello Members. I did get my rear side glass installed which was a bit of a challenge.....read the directions first, and take good notes. I did not do that. Anyway, the two door hard top does not use that lift triangle piece as the sedan does shown in pic Window Lifts II, 001. That is where I ran into a bind, and I had to do some additional research....but there it was under 2dr HT rear glass right in the FSM. The 2dr HT uses a lift bar on the rear side glass as shown in the pic marked Rear Glass Lift Bar 001 and shown installed in pic #Gas Tank and Rear Side Glass 004. I also installed the gas tank. Just a note, install the gas tank first, then install the filler tube as it is near impossible to do it the other way around. As well, be sure the sending unit wiring is not tucked up under between the top of the gas tank and the trunk floor before tightening the J-Hook.....yeah, that is what I did x**$^^^-. I had to loosen the J-Hook from the gas tank strap to get it back out. Nobody else would do that, I am sure...just me. Seems I make a bunch of extra work for myself. Tomorrow, I am going to start assembling the doors. BTW, I bought a jack instruction decal from Classic Industries a while back. Would anyone know the OEM spot to place this decal? Thanks for the information and for following along. sgrip65

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I might have been in the same class re adjusting the quarter glass. It takes alot of time. But it is worth it.
 
Hello Members. I did get my rear side glass installed which was a bit of a challenge.....read the directions first, and take good notes. I did not do that. Anyway, the two door hard top does not use that lift triangle piece as the sedan does shown in pic Window Lifts II, 001. That is where I ran into a bind, and I had to do some additional research....but there it was under 2dr HT rear glass right in the FSM. The 2dr HT uses a lift bar on the rear side glass as shown in the pic marked Rear Glass Lift Bar 001 and shown installed in pic #Gas Tank and Rear Side Glass 004. I also installed the gas tank. Just a note, install the gas tank first, then install the filler tube as it is near impossible to do it the other way around. As well, be sure the sending unit wiring is not tucked up under between the top of the gas tank and the trunk floor before tightening the J-Hook.....yeah, that is what I did x**$^^^-. I had to loosen the J-Hook from the gas tank strap to get it back out. Nobody else would do that, I am sure...just me. Seems I make a bunch of extra work for myself. Tomorrow, I am going to start assembling the doors. BTW, I bought a jack instruction decal from Classic Industries a while back. Would anyone know the OEM spot to place this decal? Thanks for the information and for following along. sgrip65

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Here is the spots for my cars. First one out is the show car assembled January 27th. The decal goes to the right side. My second car has it to the left(convertible), assembled December 14 and the with the Dartcharger with the serial number after the convertible, assembled December 9, had it on the left too! So I guess you can put it on either side!

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Hello Members. I did get my rear side glass installed which was a bit of a challenge.....read the directions first, and take good notes. I did not do that. Anyway, the two door hard top does not use that lift triangle piece as the sedan does shown in pic Window Lifts II, 001. That is where I ran into a bind, and I had to do some additional research....but there it was under 2dr HT rear glass right in the FSM. The 2dr HT uses a lift bar on the rear side glass as shown in the pic marked Rear Glass Lift Bar 001 and shown installed in pic #Gas Tank and Rear Side Glass 004. I also installed the gas tank. Just a note, install the gas tank first, then install the filler tube as it is near impossible to do it the other way around. As well, be sure the sending unit wiring is not tucked up under between the top of the gas tank and the trunk floor before tightening the J-Hook.....yeah, that is what I did x**$^^^-. I had to loosen the J-Hook from the gas tank strap to get it back out. Nobody else would do that, I am sure...just me. Seems I make a bunch of extra work for myself. Tomorrow, I am going to start assembling the doors. BTW, I bought a jack instruction decal from Classic Industries a while back. Would anyone know the OEM spot to place this decal? Thanks for the information and for following along. sgrip65

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Hello Don. Thanks for the comments...as always. If I bring the car to the Nationals, I will borrow a friends enclosed trailer for transport. My old '03 Chevy....(Bad Word to some....CHEVY), has the gumption to manage the pull. It would be fun to show the car after these past three to four years of effort on the build. Again, thanks to you and to so many others who have helped me with parts, advice, and guidance along the way. Indeed, FABO is a great place to be with a group of talented members who are so very willing to share their expertise. Thanks to all. I am hoping that I can share what I have learned with new members of our Forum as the time goes on. Best. sgrip65
That would be great to have it at the Nationals! You will get lots of thumbs up!
 
Jerry! Just from looking at your pictures I get flashbacks from the assembly time. I think it's the best moment on a restoration. Polishing the stainless steel mouldings takes time. Lots of time! But the result looks great on your car. Did you get new clips or could you re-use the old ones? When you add the big panel on the trunk, don't forget the tejp that covers the holes between thr trunk lights.

Ulf. For the most part, I used new clips. Some I bought on line, and others from the local parts stores. You would think that the parts stores are pretty generic, but the sizes seem a bit different. I had better fitting with the online clips. Have to say that sealing the penetrations was a challenge. I used silicone on the back of the nuts which seemed to work quite well. Thanks. sgrip65
 
Here is the spots for my cars. First one out is the show car assembled January 27th. The decal goes to the right side. My second car has it to the left(convertible), assembled December 14 and the with the Dartcharger with the serial number after the convertible, assembled December 9, had it on the left too! So I guess you can put it on either side!

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Ulf. Thank you for the decal information. I got the decal from Classic, but they did not indicate placement, so your information helps a great deal. Best. JJ
 
Jerry! Just from looking at your pictures I get flashbacks from the assembly time. I think it's the best moment on a restoration. Polishing the stainless steel mouldings takes time. Lots of time! But the result looks great on your car. Did you get new clips or could you re-use the old ones? When you add the big panel on the trunk, don't forget the tejp that covers the holes between thr trunk lights.

Ulf. For the most part, my trim parts were very nice as this car had been restored once before. As well, I had various trim pieces from my 66 restoration which helped as I gleaned one piece from that group of parts. One of my deck lid bezel trim parts, the lower part with the key hole, was not the best, but it will be easy to replace once I find one. Most of the stuff polished very nicely, and I believe the car will show that. I am looking at a few more Early A Darts for that lower deck lid bezel to start. Thanks. Jerry
 
Ulf. For the most part, my trim parts were very nice as this car had been restored once before. As well, I had various trim pieces from my 66 restoration which helped as I gleaned one piece from that group of parts. One of my deck lid bezel trim parts, the lower part with the key hole, was not the best, but it will be easy to replace once I find one. Most of the stuff polished very nicely, and I believe the car will show that. I am looking at a few more Early A Darts for that lower deck lid bezel to start. Thanks. Jerry
Do you mean the lower moulding on the trunk?
 
The seats look great Jerry! For my new Dartcharger I will use our wifes idea when installing the seat covers. Thanks!

Hi Ulf. Indeed. First I tried the talcum powder, but that stuff did migrate into the seams.....took some time to clean up. After that, I used a slip sheet using 3M masking film. I do not think that that film is much more than a mil thick. The film really helped in keeping the back side of the seat cover from sticking/binding to the foam forms. It did make the job much easier, and I wound up with fewer wrinkles. The wrinkles, which I had, surprisingly, stretched themselves out a few days after the installation was complete. Like they say, walk away for a few days, and it will look better. Thanks for following. sgrip65
 
Do you mean the lower moulding on the trunk?

Hi Ulf. Thanks for asking. Yes, the lower molding on the truck....the one that covers the bottom edge of the deck lid bezel. That is the one that was a bit pitted, so I, in time, will find a replacement. It looks like it got eaten by some form of acid. Best. Jerry
 
Hi Ulf. Thanks for asking. Yes, the lower molding on the truck....the one that covers the bottom edge of the deck lid bezel. That is the one that was a bit pitted, so I, in time, will find a replacement. It looks like it got eaten by some form of acid. Best. Jerry
Hey, I have a couple of the lower mouldings. I'll check and get back to you.
 
Wow Jerry,, you sure are getting a lot done and you sure do have the skills. Looking great.
 
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