65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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Been away for a while Don. Got old with this Type 1, but will try to keep up with your sedan delivery progress!
 
If you have a steamer, it will help with getting the wrinkles out. I discovered using paint stir sticks and binder clips are good for holding the sides in place while you're working. I bought a bag of medium sized binder clips at Wal Mart pretty reasonable. Keep band aids handy.....cause you know one of them Gator teeth that bite the headliner is also gonna get your finger!
 
I wanted to set it out on a couple of tables in the warm sun; it was warm but too windy. I think I might have a steamer but will have to verify that. I have the “gator teeth” stock parts that goes abovecthe doors. I’ve shortened them to fit just above the 2 doors. I’ve got a couple of ideas on how to secure the headliner the rest of the way back. Irregardless I can see my back will kill me back there!
 
I'm right there with you Don. Installing a headliner was hard enough when I was young, because they can be such a pain in the butt. Now that my patience and knee cartilage has worn thin....I'm dreading the next one! :BangHead:
 
65 Dartman said:
Finally, Some progress after my lengthy break I dug out the brand new off white headliner I bought years ago. I soon discovered that it was next to impossible to unpack it in the wagon, much less install even one headliner bow. I needed a big flat table like in an upholstery shop - the queen bed ought go work

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I used this chart I found online for the correct order of headliner bow location and the respective biw colors. It will be interesting installing thead headliner by myself!

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Make sure you snip a slit at the 3 or so inches at the end of each listing wire channel in the headliner. It'll make pulling wrinkles out MUCH easier. You can do it!!
 
mopowers said:
Make sure you snip a slit at the 3 or so inches at the end of each listing wire channel in the headliner. It'll make pulling wrinkles out MUCH easier. You can do it!!
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Thanks for the tip. I’ll take all the tips you guys know about. When it was laying on the bed and stretched out, it didn’t look too bad; installed probably wrinkle city
 
Nothing I hate worse that installing a headliner back when I could actually get up and down!
Body Schultz is a long time fancy undercoat, I use that on the inside of roof, and call it good!
 
mopowers said:
Make sure you snip a slit at the 3 or so inches at the end of each listing wire channel in the headliner. It'll make pulling wrinkles out MUCH easier. You can do it!!
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I was looking in my FSM about the headliner and it mentioned slitting the listing as well when it’s stretched in place

barbee6043 said:
Nothing I hate worse that installing a headliner back when I could actually get up and down!
Body Schultz is a long time fancy undercoat, I use that on the inside of roof, and call it good!
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abdywgn said:
good sound deadener but adds to much weight :)
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I have this package of insulation i bought fir a 70 Dart maybe 30 years ago I could try if I was so inclined. There was nothing under the old tattered headliner
 

I am using the headliner retainer (as described in my parts book) above each door. You know the part that will get your finger with its teeth if not careful.

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It cane off the 4 door so I cut it down to fit just about the door. This will secure the headliner.

Now I have the last 6 feet after the door to the rear to find something to secure the headliner to that smooth inner wall. A straight line of headliner retainer would be ideal. In lieu of that, any ideas ladies and gentlemen
 
Cut just a little at a time on each side. You want the headliner to stay on the curve downward until the bow goes into the clip. If you cut the listing too far up, the headliner will then make a straight shot from the cut to the bottom. It's a delicate balance that I've screwed up more than once with over enthusiasm...lol.
 
The Magnum were just plain 14 inch wheels I had on hand for a car that I eventually got rid of. At the time the wagon’s 8.75 was on a stand ready to install. I wondered if the Magnums would come close to clearing the 94-04 Mustang disc brakes. SOB they cleared the calipers by less than a quarter inch. Any other wheel I bet I would have had to run 15 inchers
 
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65 Dartman said:
My youngest son stopped by to shoot the **** and of course the topic was the wagon and 47. He didn’t know that I bought a 318 stroker crank kit for the motor we went to MD to pick up. Told him the crank and an overbore on the 318 would yield 390 cubes. He knew that the dual quad D66 was for that motor since we picked it up as the same time as the motor. He figured it was for the 47. Then I showed him the triple SU intake and the picture of the triple SU manifold and carbs.

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He thought for a moment and said that i need to put the slant with the SUs in the 47, scrap the idea of the 273/235 in the 65 and go with the stroker dual quad 318 instead.

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Interesting idea! For those of you following this thread, what say you?
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I agree with your son, WOW ! I have been missing a great build thread!!! Congratulations Dartman, I love it ! BUNCH!! Your not to to far, maybe I will get to see it at a show or cruise next year, you have truly out done yourself sir..
 
in a previous post (quoted by memike), I was discussing with my youngest son the 318 stroker parts I had bought. That engine was to be for the 47 Dodge project. Per my last post in that thread, that has all changed as I have acquired my old Gen I 392 back and it will go in the 47.

Because this thread is about my 65 Dart, what about all those stroker parts and 318 block? It was a pretty easy decision - make the 318 a 390 and not use b273/235! What’s not to like with 390 cubes vs 273 with the increase in HP and torque. It’ll be painted early A red and dressed with the Charger 273 valve covers and air cleaner
 
I have the 318 and the Eagle 4 inch crank (that’s been balanced) with the Eagle forged connecting rods and ICON forged pistons with all the bearings and other necessary stuff for the 318/390 conversion. For you knowledgeable engine guys, The question now is what to use for the heads, intake and exhaust.

1. I have a set of fresh rebuilt 65 closed chamber head's with matching 65 4 barrel intake with stock exhaust manifolds

2. I have a set of 60179 Eddy aluminum heads I bought from another member and a Holley Street Dominator and an Air Gap (depending on air cleaner to hood clearance) AND stock exhaust manifolds

3. I also have a set of LA block hugger headers BUT they might probably won’t fit with PS and if they did would require a custom Y Pipe to fit the brand new Charger 273 exhaust system.

The Dart is NOT for racing but a nice local and long distance cruiser. Since it’s quite likely I will have to use the stock exhaust manifolds, i will loose some power. Thoughts on using stock iron heads/intake vs the aluminum ones/aftermarket intake?
 
I vote for number 2 with the Holley Street Dominator. It will look like the stock 273 single plane manifold, flow better, and provide you with hood clearance. The heads will help the extra cubes breathe even with stock exhaust manifolds. When I built my 400 I spent some time with a grinder making sure the outlet on the stock exhaust manifolds was the same size as the head pipes, so as not to create a restriction.
 
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Another change of plans (sort of). A local guy heard about my stroker kit and made a nice offer on the kit and 318 that the stroker was destined first and gave me a down payment on it. So another change of plans (sort of!). It’s back to the trusty 273/235. I hope to get it assembled and mated to my 42RH within the next couple of weeks

EDIT: same basic post but cleaned up with correct spelling and word choice.
 
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