65 glass install

Mopar Body and Trim

  1. swing69

    swing69 fightin' socialism

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    Looking at alot of videos on "lockstrip" type window installs.

    SOME put the gasket on the window and rope it in.

    SOME put the gasket on the pinchweld and set the glass in, and work the lip over.

    What is best? easiest? factory did it, how? gasket on pinchweld?
     
  2. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The guy I hired first pulled the seals (Precision) that had been inserted on the fence for a least month to relax. After seeing the fences were nice and straight and perfectly clean he popped them back on and unlocked them. Together we laid the glass back on top and he worked them in with this tool and the palm of his hand then locked the strip back. Took about 30-45 minutes to seat both front and rear. Rear glass was original and was prepped clean. Front was new AMD. Came to my house and was more than happy to pop them in and took pics of of the car and his work! Was really awesome to watch him work and the care he took!

    00D6C96F-8F13-483F-8108-B3B69DBE1A30.jpeg
     
  3. PSegarra

    PSegarra Well-Known Member

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    I just did my front windshield. Put butyl around edge frame and then the gasket around the window frame. Using a little Dawn and water sprayed around gasket and started installing the glass at the bottom all the way around. Make sure you slap the window softly with the palm of your hand while installing and after installation. Then put the lockstrip around the gasket. On the back window you have to installed gasket on glass first and use the rope method. It is not that hard. Good luck...
     
  4. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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    Gasket on the window pulled in with rope is the only way I've ever done it. Done literally hundreds. It's easy. Once the gasket is on the window and the rope in place I squirt some Dawn dishwashing liquid all the way around on the rope, place it against the pinch weld. Literally ten minutes later, the window is in and you can put the lock strip in. I always rinse the Dawn out with cold water, let it sit a day or four to dry completely then run a bead of heavy duty silicone calk between the outside of the gasket and pinch weld. I have never had one leak doing it this way.
     
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    • BobW

      BobW Curmudgeon At Large FABO Gold Member

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      Thanks for the good description of your method.
      I have a gasket on order from DMT, as well as a new windshield from a glass distributor, that search came from your recommendation Rusty, thanks again!
      I've installed plenty of rear window sliders on pickups, always placing the gasket on the frame, and roping the glass in.
      So today I pulled the old shield & gasket out, pretty easy.
      After reading your method, and seeing the difference in thickness of the fence gasket lip vs the glass gasket lip it makes a lot of sense to follow your method. The fence gasket should certainly be more flexible than the glass side.
      A few questions:
      Do you install the lock strip after roping the windshield in or before?
      Just regular black silicon instead of window sealer?
      My old, I think original, gasket had a very light coating of gray pliable putty like material spread thinly on the fence, a bit heavier concentration in the corners. Looks like what we called dum-dum used for installing aftermarket van windows & sunroofs. I guess that's what to factory used back then.
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Well, I have to recant the rope trick with the early A cars. What I do is install the gasket to the pinch weld first. You'll probably have to tape the top to the roof to keep it held up. Start the windshield in the bottom groove of the gasket. Spray it generously with a soap and water solution to keep it slippery. Keep working it in the groove all the way around. Popcicle sticks work really good. Once in the groove all the way around, Then you start the lock strip right in the center at the bottom. It takes a special little lock strip tool that both opens the groove and pushes the lock strip in at the same time. I use this one.

      https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...,Tip swivels in 90 Degree in either direction.
       
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      • BobW

        BobW Curmudgeon At Large FABO Gold Member

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        Thanks Rusty, I used the rope with the truck sliders, gasket installed first in the frame. I have a few of nylon flat sticks with a tapered end that help slip the rubber open. With the lockstrip out it should still flex quite a bit.
        Good tip on the tool too! :thankyou:
         
      • Scamp Rhonda

        Scamp Rhonda Well-Known Member

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        All good information here. I'd like to add a couple more things. That plastic tool mentioned above is the best tool for installing the windshield into the gasket. Do not use a screw driver, you will crack it for sure. When installing the locking strip Rusty's tool that he mentioned is a good option. You can use a screw driver for that but it's probably going to leave marks in the strip. The plastic tool can be used for this purpose without leaving marks. It just takes longer. When installing the strip keep pushing it back in the gasket channel as it has a tendency to stretch and it will shrink back and leave a gap in the channel. Don't cut it too short. Also make sure you don't have any rust in the frame that will cause the gasket to heave up later. I've put over 1200 windshields in locomotives and the process is basically the same for automobiles. Really the only difference is the locomotive windshields were 9/16" thick. Oh yeah, use lots of soapy water, lol. Steve
         
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        • BobW

          BobW Curmudgeon At Large FABO Gold Member

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          LOL Steve, late 70's - early 80's I built locomotives at Brookville Locomotive in PA! Helped install lots of flat glass.
          Thanks for the tips on the lockstrip, I have the Lisle tool on it's way.
          Frame is cleaned, coated wit with POR and will be epoxied before paint.
          What are your thoughts on adhesive or sealer on the gasket?
           
        • Scamp Rhonda

          Scamp Rhonda Well-Known Member

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          Yeah, in the early 80s we had to swap all the windshields out for bullet resistant glass. My hands were really sore after that. Lol. That's really cool that you built them power houses! I worked for 40 years on the railroad. Welding and cutting on cars and wrenching and supervising on locomotives. Sorry, I don't want to give you any misinformation on sealers or adhesives. Other guys here have more experience with that. Good luck!
           
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          • BobW

            BobW Curmudgeon At Large FABO Gold Member

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            Here's a video from Precision Products on installing the lockstrip:
             
          • Scamp Rhonda

            Scamp Rhonda Well-Known Member

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            • BobW

              BobW Curmudgeon At Large FABO Gold Member

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              Thanks Steve, I have a few of those, including one with a 'handle' I made from a spatula that *someone* left on the stove..... :rolleyes:
              Actually works really well having something to wrap your fist around.
               
            • Scamp Rhonda

              Scamp Rhonda Well-Known Member

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              I wish I had a handle on the ones we used back in the day, lol.
               
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