'66 Barracuda front end rebuild

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Rustyfish

Rustyfish

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So I'm onto the last real shortcoming functionally before I can start to enjoy driving my car finally. I've got the electrical safe (ammeter bypass, upgraded alternator, electronic voltage regulator) and working, new fuel tank and seals, brakes are good with new dual master, new 4bbl eddy and ld4b intake. Starts easy now even cold and seems to run pretty well. Made a few drives now that the weather is getting better but still not safe over 34-40 because of the front end. I've got a PST stock replacement kit in hand and ready to start the front end rebuild.

So far I've got it up on heavy duty jack stands and a 3 ton floor jack for backup.

Removed the wheel and brake drum to the point you see in the pic below.

Two questions at this point:

1. Can I remove the brake assembly without disconnecting the brake lines and just hang it all over the side out of the way?

2. I tried to loosen the torsion bar adjuster counter clockwise and it seems to just not want to get "loose." Steps I've read suggest removing uca bump stop but I can't see anything like that preventing me from unloading the adjuster.

Comments?
IMG_2720.jpg
IMG_2719.jpg
 
Is the suspension fully hanging - wheels off ground and able to spin?
Picture does not show tire on or off.
Penitration oil on those adjuster bolts also. TAke all the weight off them before you loosen them.
 
How do those adjuster threads look? They are a biotch to move if they’ve been sitting in the same place for a long time. Repeated pre soaking is a must, followed by some heat, and maybe a long breaker bar an leverage. I hasten to use an impact, but may suggest it for the concussion action, it may help. Tapping not so gently on the head of the bolt with a hammer may help too. Patience grasshopper, is a must here, or a torch and new bolt and thread plate may be in your future!
 
I’ve been going back and forth with the impact gently. Maybe soak it with pb blaster for a bit and try again
 
cosgig said:
How do those adjuster threads look? They are a biotch to move if they’ve been sitting in the same place for a long time. Repeated pre soaking is a must, followed by some heat, and maybe a long breaker bar an leverage. I hasten to use an impact, but may suggest it for the concussion action, it may help. Tapping not so gently on the head of the bolt with a hammer may help too. Patience grasshopper, is a must here, or a torch and new bolt and thread plate may be in your future!
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If you have a rusty, stuck adjuster bolt, you have a few options.
As previously mentioned, try and keep soaking it with the rust penetrant of your choice.
Then some heavy duty tools.
A 3/4 drive ratchet, or breaker bar, a good impact wrench, or the flame wrench.

Me, I've been pretty happy with Kroil, or Justice Brothers JB-80, on suspension parts at the wrecking yards.

Big Ratchet 005 (Small).JPG


Torches 001 (Small).JPG
 
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hemi71x said:
If you have a rusty, stuck adjuster bolt, you have a few options.
As previously mentioned, try and keep soaking it with the rust penetrant of your choice.
Then some heavy duty tools.
A 3/4 drive ratchet, or breaker bar, a good impact wrench, or the flame wrench.

Me, I've been pretty happy with Kroil, or Justice Brothers JB-80, on suspension parts at the wrecking yards.

View attachment 1715314231

View attachment 1715314232
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help.

Looks like heat was my friend. Got the threads loosened up and backed it down enough to break loose.

Removed the cotter pin on the lca pivot and backed the nut off about 3/4"-1" but can't budge the lca at all or the torsion bar.
 
hemi71x said:
If you have a rusty, stuck adjuster bolt, you have a few options.
As previously mentioned, try and keep soaking it with the rust penetrant of your choice.
Then some heavy duty tools.
A 3/4 drive ratchet, or breaker bar, a good impact wrench, or the flame wrench.

Me, I've been pretty happy with Kroil, or Justice Brothers JB-80, on suspension parts at the wrecking yards.

View attachment 1715314231

View attachment 1715314232
Click to expand...
Sometimes you just have to get out the heavy artillery!
 
You do have the clip removed from the rear of the torsion bar, don't you.
I have only ever ran across one car that i couldn't get the torsion bars out, at a wrecking yard.
Wound up going back with a battery pack grinder to cut the torsion bars in half, before they stopped letting you use grinders, due to all the sparks, and fire hazard.
Anyway in your case the official torsion bar removal tool, might me necessary to whack on, in getting the torsion bars out.
Or keep prying between the crossmember and the LCA, and then hoping that it comes out.
Or hitting the shaft in the front of the crossmember, with a hammer, or the side of the LCA itself, with the hammer.
Good luck.
Don't F up the threads on the front of the shaft.
Put the nut on backwards, flush with the threads, and try the hammer method.
Don't whack on the LCA too hard putting lots of hammer marks in it.
Possibly a block of wood between the hammer and LCA.
 
hemi71x said:
You do have the clip removed from the rear of the torsion bar, don't you.
I have only ever ran across one car that i couldn't get the torsion bars out, at a wrecking yard.
Wound up going back with a battery pack grinder to cut the torsion bars in half, before they stopped letting you use grinders, due to all the sparks, and fire hazard.
Anyway in your case the official torsion bar removal tool, might me necessary to whack on, in getting the torsion bars out.
Or keep prying between the crossmember and the LCA, and then hoping that it comes out.
Or hitting the shaft in the front of the crossmember, with a hammer, or the side of the LCA itself, with the hammer.
Good luck.
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Can't you break the lower ball joint loose and lower the control arm to unload the torsion bar fully? I remember doing that once upon a time.
 
You do have the LCA torsion bar adjuster bolt all the down, or out, now, don't you?
 
Yep I removed the c clip on the back of the torsion bar. There is so much old grease and dirt I'm thinking these have never been out. I did also turn around the nut on the lca pivot and used a piece of wood as a buffer and took some whacks at it like that without it budging.

I do have new 1" bars from PST to install so I may use vice grips on these since I won't be reusing them. I'll try some heat at both ends too. Haven't tried that yet.
 
rustyfish said:
Yep I removed the c clip on the back of the torsion bar. There is so much old grease and dirt I'm thinking these have never been out. I did also turn around the nut on the lca pivot and used a piece of wood as a buffer and took some whacks at it like that without it budging.

I do have new 1" bars from PST to install so I may use vice grips on these since I won't be reusing them. I'll try some heat at both ends too. Haven't tried that yet.
Click to expand...
Ya, go for it with the flame wrench.
You have nothing to loose, at this point, in the removal process.
Lucky that you have a torch to use, and know how to use it.
 
Break the LCA from the spindle and lower the LCA even farther. I took a big pipe wrench and further twisted the torsion bar socket (unload direction) then you can unbolt and tap/pry the LCA back off the K and itll push the torsion bar back with it.
 
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Put your small jack under the lower arm and lower it slowly after breaking the ball joint loose.
 
pishta said:
Break the LCA from the spindle and lower the LCA even farther. I took a big pipe wrench and further twisted the torsion bar socket (unload direction) then you can unbolt and tap the LCA back off the K and itll push the torsion bar back with it.
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I would agree with that suggestion, also.
Good luck.
 
After heat on both ends I finally got it to move at the rear socket, so I used more heat up front and finally it broke loose. One more old torsion bar to go later after full disassembly on this side.

To my original post, is it ok, possible to hang the brake assembly to the side to finish the process or is it a must to remove the brake lines?
 
rustyfish said:
After heat on both ends I finally got it to move at the rear socket, so I used more heat up front and finally it broke loose. One more old torsion bar to go later after full disassembly on this side.

To my original post, is it ok, possible to hang the brake assembly to the side to finish the process or is it a must to remove the brake lines?
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Ya, you can leave all the brake parts on the backing plate, and remove the plate from the spindle, (knuckle) and support everything to the side with a coat hanger, or wire.

Pat On The Back.jpg
 
So I'm down to the spindle, uca, lca. Rear strut nut is loose, lower control arm pivot is loose, tie rod is popped.

Is it easiest to loosen up the upper ball joint while still attached to the vehicle? It measures 1 7/8" across the flats, which socket tool to use? I looked at Summit, but looks like they only have one and it doesn't say which size it's for. I'm thinking it's the 1 59/64". Lastly, should I separate the spindle first?
IMG_2740.jpg
 
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I had better luck with the UCA still bolted on the car... and good solid jack stands. I believe i had the spindles off.
 
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