'66 Barracuda starts then dies right away

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Rustyfish

Rustyfish

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Title says it all. Here are the current conditions relative to the topic:

Pertronix Ignitor II.
New correct for application Flamethrower Coil (msd liquid filled mounted horizontally prior).
Electronic Voltage Regulator Upgrade (car was dying before upgrade was done).
Ballast resistor bypassed.

After it dies, it will start again right away, just won't stay running.
 
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rustyfish said:
Title says it all. Here are the current conditions relative to the topic:

Pertronix Ignitor II
New correct for application Flamethrower Coil (msd liquid filled mounted horizontally prior)
Electronic Voltage Regulator Upgrade (car was dying before upgrade was done).

After it dies, it will start again right away, just won't stay running.
Click to expand...
Not sure if you're running a ballast resistor with that setup. If you are, I would check it to make sure it's good. 65'
 
barracudadave67 said:
See My post on "Double Bypass". Mine wouldn't stay running either, 66 B-Cuda.
barracudadave67
Click to expand...

I've already done the mod where you run a wire to the starter solenoid to relieve voltage to the ammeter (path of least resistance). This has been a quickly deteriorating condition. First started last week when moved the car to the end of the driveway and it just died. Then I took a test drive around the block and next day and it died 3 times. Made it home though. Now it just won't staying running after I turn the key to run position. Feels like it might be the ignition switch. Seems like if it the bulkhead connector or the ammeter failed it wouldn't start at all.
 
If it's dying when the key is in RUN, it sounds like you've got a bad wire or loose connection in the RUN circuit (or a bad switch which I doubt). I believe it's labelled IGN2 on the wiring diagrams and is the blue wire, not the brown wire coming off the ballast resistor, at least on the '69 diagrams. I know it's been bypassed but the wires are probably still there, just tied together. The bulkhead connector is the likely culprit, but with 40 year old wires, anything goes. If I've got my colors right, when the key is in START, the brown wire provides current to the coil and in RUN the blue wire does. Start by checking the bulkhead connector for burned or loose terminals. Once that's cleaned up and good to go, if it still won't run try running a jumper from the + battery terminal to wherever the brown and blue wires are tied together and if it runs in RUN, the problem is probably one of the wires so you'll have to check them all, but remember it still could be that bulkhead connector. I solved this one on my '69 by running a manually switched wire from the battery to the ballast resistor because 1) it was simple and 2) I got sick and tired of thinking it was fixed. Stuck it up under the dash and works as a hidden kill switch. Just don't forget and leave it on overnight.
 
mad accountant said:
If it's dying when the key is in RUN, it sounds like you've got a bad wire or loose connection in the RUN circuit (or a bad switch which I doubt). I believe it's labelled IGN2 on the wiring diagrams and is the blue wire, not the brown wire coming off the ballast resistor, at least on the '69 diagrams. I know it's been bypassed but the wires are probably still there, just tied together. The bulkhead connector is the likely culprit, but with 40 year old wires, anything goes. If I've got my colors right, when the key is in START, the brown wire provides current to the coil and in RUN the blue wire does. Start by checking the bulkhead connector for burned or loose terminals. Once that's cleaned up and good to go, if it still won't run try running a jumper from the + battery terminal to wherever the brown and blue wires are tied together and if it runs in RUN, the problem is probably one of the wires so you'll have to check them all, but remember it still could be that bulkhead connector. I solved this one on my '69 by running a manually switched wire from the battery to the ballast resistor because 1) it was simple and 2) I got sick and tired of thinking it was fixed. Stuck it up under the dash and works as a hidden kill switch. Just don't forget and leave it on overnight.
Click to expand...

On my diagram it looks like the "run" from the ignition switch is dark blue to the bulkhead connector, dark blue with a white tracer to the ballast resistor, then dark blue from the BR to the voltage regulator. And the brown from the ignition switch is "start." Sound about right?
 
Check the voltage coil + (also low side of ballast), when key is in "RUN" position. Bulkhead position from ignition switch "RUN", (high side of ballast), also goes to IGN of regulator, is "Q" terminal.
 
rustyfish said:
On my diagram it looks like the "run" from the ignition switch is dark blue to the bulkhead connector, dark blue with a white tracer to the ballast resistor, then dark blue from the BR to the voltage regulator. And the brown from the ignition switch is "start." Sound about right?
Click to expand...
Probably close enough. I'd put the key in RUN and make sure you have voltage at the end of that blue/white wire, the one that comes out of the connector to the ballast resistor, if no voltage try wiggling the wire at the bulkhead connector. If you get juice there, it's a bad connector. If not, probe the contact at the bulkhead connector at that wire's slot for voltage, both under the hood and the dash. If you've got juice under the dash but not under the hood, again bad connection at the bulkhead connector. If you want to confirm the car will run once you track this down, run a jumper from the + batter terminal to the + terminal on the coil. Should start and run no matter what. Its probably time for me to mention that I in no way shape or form are an expert at electrical stuff, I hate it as much as the next guy and know even less. This one, though I spend months tracking down myself before I figured out that help was available.
 
mad accountant said:
Probably close enough. I'd put the key in RUN and make sure you have voltage at the end of that blue/white wire, the one that comes out of the connector to the ballast resistor, if no voltage try wiggling the wire at the bulkhead connector. If you get juice there, it's a bad connector. If not, probe the contact at the bulkhead connector at that wire's slot for voltage, both under the hood and the dash. If you've got juice under the dash but not under the hood, again bad connection at the bulkhead connector. If you want to confirm the car will run once you track this down, run a jumper from the + batter terminal to the + terminal on the coil. Should start and run no matter what. Its probably time for me to mention that I in no way shape or form are an expert at electrical stuff, I hate it as much as the next guy and know even less. This one, though I spend months tracking down myself before I figured out that help was available.
Click to expand...

Never the less, I appreciate the help. That's why I love this board so much. So full disclosure now, I went back out, rechecked my upgrade work and pulled on some bulkhead wires etc. It started up and stayed running for about 5 minutes until I shut it down. I think it may be either a loose connection/bad wire or a fuel issue as well.

I will say I am becoming much more competent with my electrical work. Thank goodness these cars are pretty simple. If I could get all the correct wire colors I would probably rewire everything. May end up doing that circuit by circuit over the long haul anyway.

I have an LD4B waiting in the wings and will be getting a 4bbl carb to go with soon. It's never run very smooth so...on with the saga of 50+ year old cars and wiring.
 
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