TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
With a 6300 converter and a 4.86:1 gear a monkey on a tricycle could go 10s.
66 cuda/5.9 mag. Run 10s? Recipe?
- Thread starter Budget mopar guy
- Start date
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Here's the engine in his Camaro "HeadHunter". I don't know WHAT it is and nobody else does either. It's not slow. I'm not sure Mark even drives it anymore. He had a really BAD bike wreck several years ago and broke his back and lots of other bones. Almost killed him. He had to learn to walk all over again and he's still not right. I don't know how much he can do sitting down so I THINK he lets another friend drive it now.
But COULD he hold on?
...and it wasn't an idiot question. How do you know if you don't ask? ...and I'm not talkin about the OP here but a lot of these cats sayin "I want 700HP" and such have never driven a well prepped car with an honest 350HP. You can get jiggy with that kinda power in a well prepped A body.
*three raccoons have entered the chat*
*promptly click off 11 flat at 127*
*proceeded to sell off the converter for thai food and two AVS 500's and trade the 4.86 for a 3.23 and a bag of sour patch kids (the BIG bag)*
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Budget Mopar guy, if you are gonna use a stick, in MY opinion, you just made your job exponentially more difficult.... and less budget friendly.
It will probably be a lot of fun as long as you don't break stuff
I ran a 406, good for about 500 hp, in a very light car, with a glide and a brake. I left at full throttle, max stall, so similar (kinda) shock loading to a stick.
I had a 4" shaft, with billet yokes and 1350 joints on both ends, a nine inch with a nodular center, spool, 33 spline strange axles, and 14"slicks/4.57 gears.
In a heavier car (maybe just a little bit in your case) with a stick, you will likely need a similar level of driveline beef, probably starting with a dana 60.
Low budget, it's probably not.
No offense, but I think 2500 lbs for your car is optimistic.
It will probably be a lot of fun as long as you don't break stuff
I ran a 406, good for about 500 hp, in a very light car, with a glide and a brake. I left at full throttle, max stall, so similar (kinda) shock loading to a stick.
I had a 4" shaft, with billet yokes and 1350 joints on both ends, a nine inch with a nodular center, spool, 33 spline strange axles, and 14"slicks/4.57 gears.
In a heavier car (maybe just a little bit in your case) with a stick, you will likely need a similar level of driveline beef, probably starting with a dana 60.
Low budget, it's probably not.
No offense, but I think 2500 lbs for your car is optimistic.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
LS based with a big ole snail.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Not sure if that question was meant to be a jerk and question my ability or not but yes I have driven low 10 second cars before and my dart runs low 11s consistently . What is your point exactly? Let’s clear that up.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
only the scale will tell. Maybe I should just put an LS in it lol. Forget all the old school mopar small block stuff that apparently doesn’t make very good power for the cost in all reality
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
My dart. Pretty nothing special setup that runs 11.2
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
At the track
The combo that was run in the car in my avatar was as follows: LA 360. Stock crank/stroke. 340 rods, KB191 Pistons. Calculated 13 to 1. Hughes stage 2 iron 596 heads. Hughes 268/272 @ .050 solid flat tappet. Hughes 1.6 roller rockers. Edelbrock TR5 intake with Holley 450 tunnel ram carbs. Slick shifted A833 that was in the car. Mr. Gasket inline shufter. Scattershield with McLeod clutch(I forget number/NOT a Soft Lok). Back braced 8 3/4, 4.56 spool. 28 x 10.50 M/T slicks. Super stock springs. Frames tied with homemade torque boxes.
When the clutch was fresh, it would do pretty violent wheel stands. Could only muster mid 12's. Accidentally did a burnout in 4th gear once, cooked the disc pretty good. After that, it quit doing wheelies. Clutch would slip enough time get the car out. Very consistent 11 teens after that. When the air was good it would print 11.12's. No rev limiter, foot on the floor tap the clutch and bang the gear. Shift 7200ish. Trap at 7500. Oh, with simple 6 point bar, aluminum panels, even 3000 wo driver.
When the clutch was fresh, it would do pretty violent wheel stands. Could only muster mid 12's. Accidentally did a burnout in 4th gear once, cooked the disc pretty good. After that, it quit doing wheelies. Clutch would slip enough time get the car out. Very consistent 11 teens after that. When the air was good it would print 11.12's. No rev limiter, foot on the floor tap the clutch and bang the gear. Shift 7200ish. Trap at 7500. Oh, with simple 6 point bar, aluminum panels, even 3000 wo driver.
Well I KNOW that. lol
I didn't get that vibe at all. We don't know if we don't ask. Maybe if we had one of these...
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
What does someone’s driving ability have to do to do with minimum hp numbers on known high 10 second combos? As the thread was asking
I know this was directed at Rusty, but, it has everything to do with it. You can take a well sorted high ten combo, put some schmuck behind the wheel and i guarantee it will not run the number. If they don't know the burnout routine, the shift points, where or what temp the engine needs...... Lot of variables that takes time to sort out. Most of the time, the driver and car builder are one in the same. They truly "know" the car.
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It's called a discussion for a reason. I didn't see you lay down any ground rules. It was a legitimate question. As I said, don't know if you don't ask. If you don't want help here, just say the word.
Oh and he didn't ask about your ABILITY. He asked if you had been that fast or quick. Simple question.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
All I’m really looking for is data here. Engine combo data. If I want to run a 10 second pass the first thing you need is an engine that’s capable of producing enough power to do it in an early a body. That’s fine if people give me the engine set up they’ve seen, and they mention the suspension and tires and transmission and converter that we run with it. For instance in an extreme circumstance, you’re not going to run a 10 second pass with a bone stock 318 no matter what you’re driving ability or your suspension set up is. I’m just seeing if I even have the very first part of the equation before I tackle the rest of it. Or if that’s not something that can be figured out with lack of data that I can supply then maybe some combinations that people have seen in similar vehicles would be helpful.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Agree! Especially with a stick car. It takes familiarity and skill with any stick car to get the most out of it.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
At the point the question was asked, we didn't know you had a low 11s dart.
Did we "know" he had anything?
I don't know your budget but a 500 inch with good alum. heads can easily make enough power. I've had over 800 ponies on a good motor and 660 hp on a 10.5 street motor. easy 9's in a early A body. It's cheaper to do it once.
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
Just asking, not trying to offend anyone. Personally, I have not driven a car that fast. If you have, you should have a good idea of what it takes. Especially, with a car built from ground up. There should be certain steps to take in order to achieve your goals. Sorting out a car could/should take multiple T&T at the track. JMO/JME. 65
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