66 cuda/5.9 mag. Run 10s? Recipe?

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RustyRatRod said:
Oh and he didn't ask about your ABILITY. He asked if you had been that fast or quick. Simple question.
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He asked me if I’ve ever driven a mid 10 second car. And I specifically said idk if he meant it that way or not. Being a younger hot rodder us young Guys often get $h@t on by older enthusiasts. So I read something like that and think he MIGHT mean it in condescending way.

I ask the question of how to build a 10 second car.

Then I get asked if I’ve ever driven a mid 10 second car. Meanwhile I stated above I’d be Happy with 10.9 10.8. And also stated my dart runs 11.2 so we’re only talking 3 tenths faster than I’ve raced dozens of times
 
Anyway ……. I have a feeling it may need some n2o to get there . I guess it will just be an experiment . We’ll see how fast a cheap motor with a really good top end can go.
 
Budget mopar guy said:
All I’m really looking for is data here. Engine combo data. If I want to run a 10 second pass the first thing you need is an engine that’s capable of producing enough power to do it in an early a body. That’s fine if people give me the engine set up they’ve seen, and they mention the suspension and tires and transmission and converter that we run with it. For instance in an extreme circumstance, you’re not going to run a 10 second pass with a bone stock 318 no matter what you’re driving ability or your suspension set up is. I’m just seeing if I even have the very first part of the equation before I tackle the rest of it. Or if that’s not something that can be figured out with lack of data that I can supply then maybe some combinations that people have seen in similar vehicles would be helpful.
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I think you have the first part of the engine equation, by having a good pair of heads. Good starting point. Next would be camshaft and compression ratio.
Match the cam and cr, and the rest is fairly simple.
I ran a 260°/.610 reground solid roller, 11.5 flat tops, stock rods cast crank, and Brodix heads, untouched ootb. California catpiss 91.
It made around 500hp, 400 to the wheels, 6.30s 1/8th in a 2500 lb car including driver.
My guess? Mid tens in a 2900 lb car (depending on driver skill in a stick car, NO SLUR on Budgets ability!)
 
Budget mopar guy said:
He asked me if I’ve ever driven a mid 10 second car. And I specifically said idk if he meant it that way or not. Being a younger hot rodder us young Guys often get $h@t on by older enthusiasts. So I read something like that and think he MIGHT mean it in condescending way.

I ask the question of how to build a 10 second car.

Then I get asked if I’ve ever driven a mid 10 second car. Meanwhile I stated above I’d be Happy with 10.9 10.8. And also stated my dart runs 11.2 so we’re only talking 3 tenths faster than I’ve raced dozens of times
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He was not impuning your ability, he was asking about it.
You must know there are some out there that have never driven a 14 second car, but want a nine second one, and have no idea what it would cost or what's involved.
 

33IMP said:
I think you have the first part of the engine equation, by having a good pair of heads. Good starting point. Next would be camshaft and compression ratio.
Match the cam and cr, and the rest is fairly simple.
I ran a 260°/.610 reground solid roller, 11.5 flat tops, stock rods cast crank, and Brodix heads, untouched ootb. California catpiss 91.
It made around 500hp, 400 to the wheels, 6.30s 1/8th in a 2500 lb car including driver.
My guess? Mid tens in a 2900 lb car (depending on driver skill in a stick car, NO SLUR on Budgets ability!)
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In all reality I’ll suck with the 4 speed at first for while anyway. Herb Mcandless published an article on a 500 hp 360 a long time ago. I wish I still had the article . It was a pretty impressive package
 
Budget mopar guy said:
In all reality I’ll suck with the 4 speed at first for while anyway. Herb Mcandless published an article on a 500 hp 360 a long time ago. I wish I still had the article . It was a pretty impressive package
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If you build enough drivetrain strength to not break anything, it will be a bunch of fun wringing it out, finding out what it wants, and learning to be good with a stick.It's an impressive skill to be acquired.

I had a little skill, many years ago, now completely lost, as a stick racer. (Yes, I can still drive a stick, lol. Even a three on the tree, and at the knee!)
 
Budget mopar guy said:
He asked me if I’ve ever driven a mid 10 second car. And I specifically said idk if he meant it that way or not. Being a younger hot rodder us young Guys often get $h@t on by older enthusiasts. So I read something like that and think he MIGHT mean it in condescending way.

I ask the question of how to build a 10 second car.

Then I get asked if I’ve ever driven a mid 10 second car. Meanwhile I stated above I’d be Happy with 10.9 10.8. And also stated my dart runs 11.2 so we’re only talking 3 tenths faster than I’ve raced dozens of times
Click to expand...
Knock the chip off your shoulder. The view will be much better. No one here did any such thing. You've blown this way out of proportion.
 
33IMP said:
If you build enough drivetrain strength to not break anything, it will be a bunch of fun wringing it out, finding out what it wants, and learning to be good with a stick.It's an impressive skill to be acquired.

I had a little skill, many years ago, now completely lost, as a stick racer. (Yes, I can still drive a stick, lol. Even a three on the tree, and at the knee!)
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I’m really looking forward to it. Will definitely be a new challenge. I bet three on the tree was an interesting experience . My buddy had a duster we would rip around in as kids that had a slant and a 3 on the tree. It was a fun little car
 
TT5.9mag said:
If you put a 300 shot on ANYTHING you better have your poop in a group.
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A friend back in the 80s put a 300 hp nitrous on his mustang, 428 auto big tires roll bar and ladders. Normally ran 12.20s, hit the button from the go and went 10.57 3 times in a row. Never heard it shift just a scream down the track. I ended blowing it up racing using the gas in high gear and burnouts behind the line. Valve stuck open and flooded engine, I knew what it was, turn switch off and cranked for 30 seconds sitting at the line, hit the on switch and cranked BOOM, jacked the head off block, bent two rods and cracked the block. Destroyed, nice 428 too. Be careful, Alderman did same thing on his pro stock. But what a rush!
 
Ceedawg said:
A friend back in the 80s put a 300 hp nitrous on his mustang, 428 auto big tires roll bar and ladders. Normally ran 12.20s, hit the button from the go and went 10.57 3 times in a row. Never heard it shift just a scream down the track. I ended blowing it up racing using the gas in high gear and burnouts behind the line. Valve stuck open and flooded engine, I knew what it was, turn switch off and cranked for 30 seconds sitting at the line, hit the on switch and cranked BOOM, jacked the head off block, bent two rods and cracked the block. Destroyed, nice 428 too. Be careful, Alderman did same thing on his pro stock. But what a rush!
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That’s pretty crazy . Insane the nitrous made that big of a difference
 
Hey Budget mopar guy. I hit 10.80 @ 127 mph in my '65 Barracuda some 24 years or so ago. It weighs roughly 3,000 lbs. It has an R3 block w/ something like 12.5/1 compression. Mopar 3.79 stroker crank which with stock bore is 389 cubes. It has Indy/Edelbrock CNC ported heads with 2.05" intake valves. Direct Connection .620 purple shaft cam. Has 1-7/8" fenderwell headers. Hemi 4-speed Liberty lugged. McLeod Soft Lok clutch. It has a back braced 8-3/4 with spool running 4.86 pro gear.

I never won much but I did get a beer from someone for my effort. :) It was all a blast!
 
DC 340 said:
Hey Budget mopar guy. I hit 10.80 @ 127 mph in my '65 Barracuda some 24 years or so ago. It weighs roughly 3,000 lbs. It has an R3 block w/ something like 12.5/1 compression. Mopar 3.79 stroker crank which with stock bore is 389 cubes. It has Indy/Edelbrock CNC ported heads with 2.05" intake valves. Direct Connection .620 purple shaft cam. Has 1-7/8" fenderwell headers. Hemi 4-speed Liberty lugged. McLeod Soft Lok clutch. It has a back braced 8-3/4 with spool running 4.86 pro gear.

I never won much but I did get a beer from someone for my effort. :) It was all a blast!
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That car sounds awesome!
 
If it helps, my stock 5.9 mag short block (9:1) puts out around 420 hp with heavily ported LA-based edelbrocks, 222 @ .050 / just under.550" lift hyd roller cam, shorty headers with restrictive 2 1/4” down pipes, RPM intake, 750 cfm Street Demon carb. It's run 12.65 in a ~3500-lb Duster with 904, cheap 2800-stall converter, 3.55 gears with sure-grip and no wheelspin (sticky launch pad at track). I'm pretty confident it would get to 500 hp with bigger solid roller cam, bigger headers, tunnel ram with dual quads, compression bump to 11:1. Cut 500+ lbs from the car, 4.30-ish gears, optimize suspension for increased power, skinny front tires, might just break into the 10s? Hard to tell because mid-12s to high 10s is a big jump and so many factors involved.

Not sure how relevant that all is but I believe in a light car like your early cuda a similar 500 hp SBM could do it if everything else is dialed. Making sure the right clutch is selected to give the right amount of slippage would be a key factor, like someone mentioned earlier they picked up quite a bit once their clutch got worn in and started slipping a tad on launch instead of grabbing instantly.
 
MopaR&D said:
If it helps, my stock 5.9 mag short block (9:1) puts out around 420 hp with heavily ported LA-based edelbrocks, 222 @ .050 / just under.550" lift hyd roller cam, shorty headers with restrictive 2 1/4” down pipes, RPM intake, 750 cfm Street Demon carb. It's run 12.65 in a ~3500-lb Duster with 904, cheap 2800-stall converter, 3.55 gears with sure-grip and no wheelspin (sticky launch pad at track). I'm pretty confident it would get to 500 hp with bigger solid roller cam, bigger headers, tunnel ram with dual quads, compression bump to 11:1. Cut 500+ lbs from the car, 4.30-ish gears, optimize suspension for increased power, skinny front tires, might just break into the 10s? Hard to tell because mid-12s to high 10s is a big jump and so many factors involved.

Not sure how relevant that all is but I believe in a light car like your early cuda a similar 500 hp SBM could do it if everything else is dialed. Making sure the right clutch is selected to give the right amount of slippage would be a key factor, like someone mentioned earlier they picked up quite a bit once their clutch got worn in and started slipping a tad on launch instead of grabbing instantly.
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That’s all really great info . Thank you for sharing . I’m sure the car is a lot of fun to drive.
 
My guess will be even if the car hits 11s it’s still going to be a blast to drive . I really need to find that article by herb mcandless . I may be able to mimic aspects of that with my build
 
Budget mopar guy said:
Basically, if any of you guys can provide examples of cars and set ups that you’ve seen that have been able to run that number. I’m just looking for ideas and guidelines for things that have worked in the past.
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This is my daughters car, 340 Edelbrock heads not ported, KB pistons, flat tappet cam, pump gas 10.70s no problem, the car has gone 10.60s, the heads you have are way better and you have more stroke. you don't need a stroker crank or N2O.

IMG_2796.JPG
 
Back around late 90s Ritter and Weber were running a Daytona C Altered or something like that, 360 W2 heads one four, PG. I was shocked how fast it ran, 7.70s in the quarter at over 150 mph. I looked it over and it looked so simple, I think he weighed in at around 3100 for that class. Paul Rossie put a 360 in a Rampsge and ran 9.60s, he was around 2800 pounds. A stock 360-380 crate engine went 11.10s in a full size Duster, power can be made with these engines. I’m shooting for mid to high 10s in my 340 70 Duster running the E/STOCK class.
 
This is like the joke... What's 80yo pussy taste like... Depends...

Weight and hook are the key components here. If those are high and not good, the HP needed to run a number goes up.
Great hook, light weight (sub 3k weight), you might get by with 450-460hp.

A magazine engine with 480ish hp (trimmed out with mufflers we figured 465-470hp) was put in a car that hooks like a ****... the car weighed around 3200 with an off the shelf 10" converter., Ran low 6.90's
The kicker... it went 1.43 60' That's a low 10 second 60' time. Car might have run a high 10 at best. Realistically, it was probably a 11.10ish et.

Take the 5.9 (should be a roller), put a 240 @.050 juice roller in it with true 550 lift using 1.6 rockers, air gap/victor intake and it should make enough to get you in the ballpark sub 3K. Smack with a 100 shot and 10's no problem.
 
ValiantRacing said:
This is my daughters car, 340 Edelbrock heads not ported, KB pistons, flat tappet cam, pump gas 10.70s no problem, the car has gone 10.60s, the heads you have are way better and you have more stroke. you don't need a stroker crank or N2O.

View attachment 1716511751
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That car is beautiful. Could we talk a little bit more about your set up? I’m really intrigued. What compression ratio do you think you’re running, is she on ladder bars or super stock Springs? And is that an automatic car with a high stall converter like 4000 or so. Much knowledge to be gained off of this set up. You did a really fantastic job on the car too. It looks awesome.
 
crackedback said:
This is like the joke... What's 80yo pussy taste like... Depends...

Weight and hook are the key components here. If those are high and not good, the HP needed to run a number goes up.
Great hook, light weight (sub 3k weight), you might get by with 450-460hp.

A magazine engine with 480ish hp (trimmed out with mufflers we figured 465-470hp) was put in a car that hooks like a ****... the car weighed around 3200 with an off the shelf 10" converter., Ran low 6.90's
The kicker... it went 1.43 60' That's a low 10 second 60' time. Car might have run a high 10 at best. Realistically, it was probably a 11.10ish et.

Take the 5.9 (should be a roller), put a 240 @.050 juice roller in it with true 550 lift using 1.6 rockers, air gap/victor intake and it should make enough to get you in the ballpark sub 3K. Smack with a 100 shot and 10's no problem.
Click to expand...
Great info. I’m going to do as much weight reduction as possible . I’ve considered an aluminum dash. I’m not sure if the straight front axel will be lighter than the k member setup or not. I should weigh it and pst the data
 
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