Paul King
MrPJK
removed my cluster today and their are four prongs on both side of the rear of the cluster that stick out were the plug in,s go .some are lose .will this be a problem for me when I reinstall this .I hope I described this okay. Thanks
66 Dart Cluster
- Thread starter Paul King
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66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
Yep most people will re-solder the pins back in to keep a good connection to the thin copper. I took mine apart and redid mine "white face" after re-soldering the pins I think there is a sticky on this board about it I also added a separate dedicated ground wire going to the ash frame to make sure I had a good ground instead of relying on the 4 screws to provide ground , you can see it in picture # 2
Yes you will probably have issues with loose pins. I may have a spare circuit board . Let me check tomorrow and I will get back with you. You pay the USPS prepaid box or envelope and I will send it to you. Keep your fingers crossed.
Paul King
MrPJK
Thanks I have a spare board also,but one is purple and one is green
Purple, must be a Canadian thing.
Both mine are green. ANybody know what the coating is? Lacquer? You're still welcome to one if you need one.
Paul King
MrPJK
Can you tell me what you used to solder them ,a liquid solder ,and did you remove the board and solder from behind .
Paul King
MrPJK
Thanks toolman ,the car came from Phoenix Arizona.LOL I will keep this in mind though.Purple, must be a Canadian thing.
Paul King
MrPJK
Thanks guy,s I can use all the help I can get with this
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I used a tinning fluid and then used a small 40w soldering iron with a pointed tip to solder it with low temp electrical component solder, yes I removed it from the housing and I tapped the mushroomed pins back down a little flatter to fit tighter to the board, cleaned everything with electrical component spray and then re-soldered on the front side to the copper traces and pins, flipped it over and lightly soldered the mushroomed ends of the pins to help it to NOT collapse or get loose again. then cleaned it again to remove tinning solution and flux. SMDIN100 Chip Quik Inc. | Soldering, Desoldering, Rework Products | DigiKey
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
if this is the one you are talking about , I installed this one for a customer who had bought it for his car (yeah did the white faced gauges too) Circuit Board | 1966 A-Body Standard | Dart, Canadian Valiant | eBay
The light holes for the sockets are a bit loose you'll have to bend the connector pins on the socket out quite a lot to make the original sockets fit, replacement sockets are somewhat tighter (depending on vendor) but still need bent to be tight.
I have a separate ground wire on mine also, I guess you can use any of the hex heads or the phillips for the condenser...
Paul King
MrPJK
I would also like to replace the speedo cable with a new one ,My car is Automatic,any ideal which one it would take ,Thanks .Also I will add an extra ground wire .
I have a 4 speed but got a Balkamp cable from Napa that fit prefect.
Paul King
MrPJK
Im also wondering if my speedo would be 63inch or 83 inch,i haven't taken the old one out yet but I can order a new one
Don't know for sure. My old cable was a replacement and it was too long, probably the 83" one. Too long is asking for trouble. It had a loop in it to work. The short cable fit perfect for me. 4 speed though. That might be the difference. I think the speedo gears are in about the same place between the two transmissions though.
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A-body speedo cables are 63 inches long. The aftermarket has cable lengths and cable ends all kind of screwed up in applications. We know yours has collector nut at instrument end and those are all the same size so no confusion there. There are different sizes of collector nut at trans end. Good luck
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