66 Valiant Dual Master Conversion

[66Signeto]

Currently pulling my hair out with an Inline Tube kit to convert my 66 Signet to a dual master cylinder while keeping the drums. They say the kit is correct and I have no reason to believe it's not, however some of the lines aren't even close to fitting. I bought this to avoid the situation of bending and flaring my own lines. Has anyone used this 7 piece kit and found it can be made to work? Everything lines up near the flex line connections but goes to heck shortly thereafter. Yes I've removed the shipping bends. The left front hardline is bent and is the correct length to fit the OE distribution block which I'm no longer using. The new distribution block seems to want to much further forward on the frame based on where the lines coming off the new master go. I could probably bend the heck out of the new line and make a long loop to bring it where the new distribution block wants to go but that's so much extra tube hanging around. The other main issue so far is the right front crossover hardline. Is there ANY way to get this in while the engine is in the vehicle without cutting it into 3 pieces and adding unions? Would rather not have those potential leaks. I cannot for the life of me figure out a way to get that line in without destroying it.

The pictures below show where the new master cylinder hardlines want to go. Obviously nowhere near the original distribution block. Does this look correct? All the old hardlines aren't out just yet while I mock this stuff up so ignore those.

 

[MDchanic]

I bought this to avoid the situation of bending and flaring my own lines.

Why? It's much easier to bend your own lines, using copper-nickel, than it is to screw with "perfect-fitting" "custom" lines from any manufacturer.

Think about how much more you want to mess with these, and if its not much, just cut your losses, buy some line and some nuts, do it yourself, and do it right.

– Eric

 

[66Signeto]

Why? It's much easier to bend your own lines, using copper-nickel, than it is to screw with "perfect-fitting" "custom" lines from any manufacturer.

Think about how much more you want to mess with these, and if its not much, just cut your losses, buy some line and some nuts, do it yourself, and do it right.






– Eric

Kit came highly recommended so I went that direction. I can do a little tube work but the amount I would need to do from scratch is a no-go with my old hand injuries.

 

[MDchanic]

That certainly is a strong limiting factor, but considering how much easier the nickel-copper is to bend than the steel (especially stainless), it might be easier to make up a set of the copper ones than to adjust the steel ones.

I've bent plenty of steel lines with my hands before the copper ones came out, and it's really a big difference. Feels like cheating.

– Eric

 

[64Signet]

I just recently went through this same problem on my 64 Valiant. It was a bit of a fiasco on their part. From what I was told, the master cylinder lines design weren't completed at the distribution block end. They had me bend coat hanger templates for the lines I needed remade, sent them and a bunch of pics and they bent new ones for me. I modified the front lines to meet up with the distribution block myself. Rear line was perfect. I ended up welding frame connectors in, which interfered with the rear line and had to move the distribution block for possible header clearance so, I decided to bend copper lines instead.
They have quality stuff and it looked great. Customer service wasn't great. In fact, one rep I spoke to told me I just need to use the original distribution block!
I ended up dealing with Chuck, he was the sales manager. He ended up quitting during all this and nobody knew my replacement parts were done and ready to be shipped. Eventually I got all the lines I needed, but it was a little difficult getting there.
I would call and let them know the problems you're having.