67 Notchback disc brake/suspension questions

[NewCudaGuy]

I have a 67 notchback, it’s complete, running, good little cruiser. Underpowered with the 273 but it’s completely rebuilt and I’m not going to really do anything to power it up. My concern is the suspension/disc brakes. It has custom built Coy wheels fitted for sbp. I want to do a disc brake conversion/rebuild the front end/steering box. It’s so sloppy driving this car I get nervous going above 50 mph! There’s so much play in the suspension/steering wheel travel that I have to use both hands and white knuckle it because I never know how much I have to correct the steering wheel when I go over the smallest bump doing 45-55 mph on the road. It’s frustrating because I can’t drive it literally anywhere except to go get ice cream on Sunday’s. I want to keep the Coy wheels...how do I do a disc brake conversion without changing the bolt pattern

 

[mycuda]

Welcome.
And nice car!
Plenty of aftermarket options depending on
Your budget.
SSBC multiple piston brake caliper kits.
Or single piston caliper kits cheaper/simpler Pirate Jack.
Either way better than factory front drums
IMO.

Google up.....

D.

 

[4spdragtop]

We have factory disc on ours. Work great, BUT can be pricey to replicate and a pain in the *** to locate everything. Call Dr Diff, they know their stuff and have EVERYTHING.

Cool car by the way!

 

[Car Nut]

aboard!

Your notchback looks top notch.

 

[Dartsun]

Welcome aboard. For gear box you can go PST or bergman autocraft sells borgeson boxes top notch. I have a manual PST steering on my 65 and I like it. Very nice barracuda

 

[RedFish]

Too much we don't know. a new steering gear and or disc brakes may not have much effect on how it handles/stays in its lane. We don't know if its original 67 gearbox or if gearbox has ever been adjusted.
Someone may have simply went at the torsion bar adjustments to fit over sized shoes under there. Suspension geometry may be screwed up and causing bump steer. Offset upper arm bushings and alignment may cure some of it.
We don't know the condition of any steering related parts starting at the box coupling.
You haven't complained that the drum brakes wont stop it, so do whats needed to make it drive right first. Brakes can come later.

 

[Mopar-Mitch]

Welcome from Kentucky!

 

[Demonracer]

Tell us more about the "rebuild".
1. Did they rebuild the front suspension, or did it get a rattle can rebuild?
2. Were the upper & lower bushings replaced, & what shape are they in?
3. Were all of the ball joints replaced?
4. Were all of the tie rod ends replaced?

Personally, I would get it up on stands & take a really good look at all of the suspension components & their attaching points to see exactly what it all looks like. Unless I have put my looking grapes on something, or see the receipts & the old parts, I never take anyone's word that it was totally rebuilt.

Ask me how & why I know this & take action first. LOL

 

[67notchb]

I just got a disk break conversion for my 67 Notchback from CPP and will keep you posted but I have the same wondering problem and will start here to fix it although I know other parts will need to be replaced.

Not to change the thread but what wheels and headers do you have on your notchback?

 

[NewCudaGuy]

I just got a disk break conversion for my 67 Notchback from CPP and will keep you posted but I have the same wondering problem and will start here to fix it although I know other parts will need to be replaced.

Not to change the thread but what wheels and headers do you have on your notchback?

I have Hedman headers and Coy wheels. Love the wheels...

 

[my68barracuda]

I have Hedman headers and Coy wheels. Love the wheels...

It has already been said, but it is important enough to say it again, you have what should be a great handling car. If it is not, something is either worn or just adjusted wrong.
Do a search here on FABO for the Skosh Alignment chart and then get the car to a good muscle car friendly alignment shop. Figure the handling issue out first, then work on the brakes.

the play in the steering wheel could be something as simple as a worn steering shaft coupler, rebuild parts are available and not expensive.
1966-1976 Dodge Dart Parts | MP50119 | 1966-76 Mopar Steering Coupler Rebuild Set | Classic Industries

and an easy way to get front disks and keep the SBP is to go with the OE style Kelsey Hays calipers and disks. Do research on the KH disk brakes, I think that I read that some of the parts are shared with early Ford Mustangs so may be re produced and available through vintage Mustang part retailers.

 

[66fs]

First, tighten up every bolt and nut to spec. Second, get a good alignment from someone good that knows Mopar cars. The alignment shop should also find any problems. As said before, these cars can handle very well. Next add a front sway bar. I'd try some good brake shoes before you go through the trouble of swapping to disc brakes, if your drums are good. Assuming you have 10 inch brakes.

Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

 

[67notchb]

I got my CPP disc brake conversion kit together (im pretty sure it comes in the SBP also) with the PST greasable poly LCA bushing and mancini racing 1" strut rod with bushings. everything went together really well and made a world of difference. Suspension components were very wore out and it really tightened things up. next thing I will do is the replace the steering box with a 14:1 quick ratio steering box kit from Borgeson. Its a little more than I want to spend but ill have this car a long time so it will be worth it.

I have Hedman headers and Coy wheels. Love the wheels...

Those wheels look great, Ill be taking a page from your book and getting a set for my notch back. What size tires, wheels and backspacing did you get?