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67 valiant redo

  1. So I've had this car since about 1999-2000, it was one of the first cars I ever owned. It started as a /6 3-speed manual car that my father and I got out South Carolina(if I remember correctly). We rebuilt it the first year and put together a 451 low deck stroker - 833 4-speed combo for it. The car was decently quick for the time(as a street car) it ran mid-low 12's at about 116 mph.
    old val1.jpg
    old val int 3.jpg

    You will have to forgive the front seat choice(I was 20 when these happened)... and yes they were the cheapest available then.
    old val in.jpg
    Over time, as I got newer nicer driving cars, I kind of lost interest in driving the old one. I couldn't bring myself to sell it, so it sat for the last 8 years or so. I would maybe drive it once or twice a year. However, I did manage to sell the motor and trans this Spring and so begins the re-imagining :)

    I've been redoing the interior:
    new int2.jpg

    Still need to paint the gauge cluster black
    new int4.jpg

    Got these seats from a Chevy Sonic RS

    Test fitting seats
    new int1.jpg
    new int3.jpg

    Re-did the trunk with spatter paint, it looks OK. I am not in love with how the spatter paint works.

    int new4.jpg

    new int2.jpg
  2. One other notable addition, HDK front end:

    Also trying out some LED projectors:
    new ext.jpg
  3. A 12 second E.T.,should be respectful anywhere..Nice to meet, you
  4. -- Me too. -- Nice one.
  5. Thanks guys, the next job is wiring up the car with the new American Autowire Highway 15 harness.
  6. Far out
  7. Good start on the build! The coilover and r&p up front make for a great driving machine. I no longer have to continuously turn the wheel side to side trying to keep it straight on the road and braking quality had improved a ton. Drives straight and brakes straight.
  8. Great looking car.
  9. Yeah, the reason I didn't drive the car much lately was the old manual box was so sloppy. At some point once you get used to driving the newer cars(99 z28 camaro & 01 z06 vette in my case) and I couldn't go back to the steering box.

    The other part I will probably buy in the next few months is a t56 Magnum trans if I can't find a decent deal on a used one. The end goal is modern fuel injected motor - 6-speed. I have a couple more small appearance changes to do as well.
  10. Check in with US Car Tool. Chris was the guy telling me about it. They were making a tunnel/crossmember for the T-56 but I'm not sure when it will be available. I bought their GM 200-4R crossmember to put in my Dart. Like you, I eventually want fuel injection, but the trans swap will be first. Will be nice to cruise 60mph @2K rpm with 4.10 gears and still run 10's all day long. The T-56 will be a lot of fun though!
  11. Thanks for the heads up on US car tool trans tunnel. I have been looking at doing their inner fender braces as well.
  12. US Car Tool has great products in my opinion. We used a kit. Front and rear torque boxes, frame connectors, core support brace, drive shaft loop, and inner fender braces. They all fit our Valiant very well.
  13. Nice looking ride. We don't see too many 67's around here. I have 2 at the moment.
  14. So, I had some time to work on the car this weekend and I got the US Car Tool inner fender braces installed and undercoated:

    fender braces.jpg

    Also, we put some hood vents from a 2013 mustang in the hood. I will admit that I felt a bit guilty cutting into the hood on an original paint car which is in decent shape.
    front vent.jpg
    hood vent.jpg

    Cut out hole and frame tack'd in place. Thankfully the hood is still rigid with the frame we made.
    vent cutout.jpg

    Also kind of hard to see in this picture, I have the OER camaro front splitter mocked in place:
    chin 2.jpg
  15. Lookin good. If you want the factory grille look back I have a few nice 67 grille sets
  16. I like what you did with the hood. Real nice touch!
  17. Thanks guys, I may look you up sometime for a grill Sedanman.
  18. I'm doing some garage cleaning and I have plenty for the 2 67's I'm working on so it's time to release my leftovers. I have 7 sets of taillights listed for sale also.
  19. Just a little update on some parts that showed up today.

    T56 magnum wide ratio
    t56 magnum.jpg

  20. nice restomod.I am not feeling the mustng vents but they dont look bad at all. That trans will make a TON of difference.
  21. Thanks man, I just couldn't go back to the older transmissions after being used to new cars.
  22. I got a few more items taken care of this week. Here's the guage cluster I am working on, still need to add a few lights and switches to it.
    guages 2.jpg
    The top line of the gauge bezel should straighten when it is actually screwed in.
  23. We also cut the trans tunnel for a test fit of the T56. Trimmed away quite a bit, Not as much would have needed to be removed(drivers side) if the car didn't already have a 4-speed tunnel piece.

    trans cut.jpg
    I'm trying to mount it as high up into the car as I can, to keep the exhaust tucked up as close to the floor pan as possible. We're probably going to trim it a bit more near the firewall for better access.
  24. We also did a preliminary test fit with the new engine and headers. Its a 6.0L lq4(ls type) engine. The headers were a tight fit, but seemed to clear everthing with no denting. The HDK front end played a huge factor in making header fitment issues minimal.
    Here is the driver side header clearance. I have a fair bit of wiggle room with the steering shaft to get more clearance.
    engine driver side.jpg

    Passenger side, there is a tiny spot on the pinch weld that I will need trim(red arrow)
    Engine pass side.jpg

    As far a the engine mounts go, I have a set of 5.7 hemi mounts and we are building a set off of them. The passenger side is shockingly close to working as is. It would probably work with a shim and slotting 2 of the holes like 1/4". The driver side mount is not very close.

    In case anybody is wondering, the headers are Speed Engineering 1-7/8" swap headers for GM A & X body cars. I am pretty impressed with the quality for a $280 set of headers. They even have merge spikes in the collectors. Also, the ground clearance looks very good.
  25. Putting a chevy motor in that car is like takin' a leak on your grandpappy's grave
  26. Here's a picture on the cross member we are making:

    We put mounting tabs on the backside of the torsion bar mounts and then attached them to the subframe connector as well.

    We also made a brace to go over the transmission and connect the original floor bracing back together.
    trans tunnel.jpg

    After completing the engine mounts and nearly completing the crossmember, the header clearance looks pretty decent

    header clearance.jpg
  27. sweet.....Thanks for the update. I will have to keep n eye on you for progress reports and suggestions.

    sometimes with all the different screen names and e-mail addresses....you guys are hard to keep track of.
  28. Nice work. Keep it up and keep posting pictures along the way!!!!
  29. Yeah, I'll take a picture of the motor mounts for you. I used the 5.7 hemi mounts you sent and we were able to make use of a lot of them with some adjustments(driver side mostly)
  30. More progress, I originally had a TTI 3" H-pipe system on it. We were able to re-use many of the pieces and with the help of a 3" pypes universal x-pipe, the exhaust is hooked up.


    exhaust 2.jpg

    We were able to get the exhaust tucked up nice and tight to the floor after the headers.
    exhaust side.jpg
  31. Does anybody have pictures(experience) of the MP oval track springs on a Valiant? I am trying to get the rear ride height down a bit more. Ideally it will sit pretty level.
  32. Great looking build man. I just ordered the HDK kit and I'm preparing for a T56 swap too. Your pictures are very informative. I like the crossmember design. Where did you find your trans?
  33. :popcorn:

  34. Here are a couple pictures of what we did for engine mounts(based off of 5.7 hemi mounts)

    driver mount 1.jpg
    pass mount.jpg

    Here is a more open view of the driver side mount
    driver mount.jpg
    Still some trimming, grinding, and painting to do on the mount.
  35. Only 1 hater comment so far? Damn....
    I have an LQ4/4l80e that will be going into my 69 Dart. Have a HDK as well. Emailed Denny about motor mounts...will be waiting..
  36. Not long I hope......be the first thing in the mule once I get the new shop organized. Be nice to get back to K's and instead of windows, floors, doors, trim, paint, ets.

    I love hot roddin'......
  37. What are those bosses used for on the side of the block near the very front?....utilizing the threaded bosses would provide a better / direct shot to the perch.
  38. I'm thinking you mean the holes I put arrows next to:
    driver mount holes.jpg

    I was considering those, but they are used for the accessory drive mounting I wanted(f-body accessories). Some other accessory drive options likely wouldn't use them.

    f-body alternator location:
    fbody alternator mount.jpg
  39. Very cool, I was quite pleased with the quality of my HDK kit. Post pictures of your engine/trans going in, the more information out there the better. :)
  40. I think I can work with them ....and still use the alternator /accessory.

    I got an idea already on the drawing board /cocktail napkin
  41. You are using the truck pan? Just curious...why the "f" body accessory drive? I am planning on using the trucks...very well may get a power rack. I got an LQ4 with a spun bearing. If the crank is wasted will be getting stroked. What are you plans for a cooling system? How are you going to address the steam tubes?
  42. I picked up an fbody pan setup(98-02) because the ground clearance is much better than the truck pan(about 3 inches). As for the accessory drive, the f-body setups are a bit more compact for radiator fan clearance. Also, I prefer the appearance and they aren't terribly priced. I've been looking at the Dirty Dingo setups.

    I went with the power rack option. I was a bit surprised at the cost of the powersteering pump. Realistically, once you get the pump, hoses, bracket, and pump pressure lowered for a mustang rack... you are looking at ~$500-600 extra over a manual setup. Which was a bit of a pill to swallow, but at the end of the day I think it is one of those things that makes you want to drive the car more.

    For cooling I already had a be-cool aluminum radiator and my dad knows a guy who can add a port to it for the steam port. So I'll likely just add an electric fan setup to it. I recall one of my friends mentioning that a ford windstar electric fan setup is pretty inexpensive, but decent.

    If you get a 408 stroker in yours, I will be jealous.
  43. Someplace out in the train wreck of a garage I have an alternator only mount that I stumbled onto. Very well may just use that...for years I drove a little Ford Ranger with manual steering...miss that feeling...have to see how bad my shoulder gets by the time I get to it.
    What did you do for an engine harness? I have a completely uncut oe one. Will be visiting a local shop that a few folks suggested for the tuning...
  44. You do know about Kevin? He is a member here...don't know if he is on much anymore....Kevin did LS swaps for a living for a decade or so. I have picked his brain more than once. If you would be interested in talking with him I can ask about giving get you his cell #.
  45. I'm considering using an EZ EFI 2.0 LS mfpi kit, when you add up everything the price(~1400 on sale) is pretty competetive with using a GM ECU. Plus it has a few perks.
  46. Place I picked up the motor from included the ECU, complete harness, underwood fuse box (that's going away) and the throttle body. Has the alternator and ps pump on it. Will be visiting a local shop that does tuning before I decide if I keep the factory stuff. Would like to keep the factory stuff. But if the $$ end of it is close to aftermarket stuff will have to think about. May look into Megasquirt...partially depends on what the tuner says...
  47. Really would like to run drive by wire...and have cruise control...
  48. Here are some pictures of the OER camaro spoiler mounted and brackets made.
    chin spoiler 2.jpg
    chin spoiler.jpg
    Here are the brackets we made to mount it:
    chin bracket center.jpg
    chin bracket side.jpg
  49. Just found this build thread. Good work! Love it!
  50. Have a favor to ask....can you post a picture of the total engine bay? Like to see what kind of distance you have from the front of the heads to the inner fenders and radiator support...long story..,Thanks...
  51. Got a bit more done on the car. I tried out some Mopar oval track springs 0" arch(part number ending in 414). I am pretty pleased with how they fit.
    oval track 2.jpg
    They do move the wheels back a small amount. Here are some measurements since I couldn't find any online when I was looking:
    circle track measure.jpg
  52. Sure, it will be a little while though, since the engine is not in the car currently.
  53. Not rush....thanks...
  54. Another little quick update. I got the Holley HP EFI setup and made an aluminum bracket to mount it under the dash.
    ECU mount.jpg
    ECU mount 2.jpg
  55. I had a bit of delay waiting for some parts, but we are back in action. I did a bit of cleanup on the engine before reassembly:
    The new clutch install - RAM 9.5 dual disc
    clutch resize.jpg
    Got the engine back in and working on an intake setup:
    engine install.jpg
  56. Very interesting project! What made you choose an LS over a Gen-3 Hemi? For someone considering a similar project, is the LS a better engine?
  57. Price is a factor. The biggest benefit is the LS swap community, aftermarket support, and parts options being massively in favor of the LS. Also, I have had a few LS vehicles which I was pleased with the results I had gotten. So some of it is familiarity as well.
  58. I have SS springs on my 67 and you can see the difference in axle center line between the two. pic 1 is the front of my wheel opening and pic 2 is the rear with 255/60/15.

    Picture 3517.jpg

    Picture 3518.jpg
  59. Thanks for posting that, it is nice to have a reference in the same place.
  60. Did you move your springs into the frames? Is your axle narrowed? I have another 67 that I picked up and the previous owner had installed the front boxes in the frame already and I picked up a CalTrac set up dirt cheap with mono leafs for the springs inboard. I'm wondering if I can adjust the leaf back to about where yours sits. The other 67 is a future project for when I get done with putting this one back together and driving it.

    Picture 4490.jpg
  61. I do have the old mopar offset spring hanger package installed. The rear end is stock A-body width. I would guess that you could move the bolt hole in the front hanger back ~1/2 inch to get the wheel placement I have.
  62. Super clean buildup. I like it. The fab work looks great. Personally i think making em run and drive like a new car takes away the charm and personality of having an old car, i love the whir and clunk of an old 4 speed gear box myself. I like your trans crossmember setup though and will prob use a variation of it on my sons 69 notchback to use a 2004R trans. Did you sell off the pieces you pulled from the car when updating it? Also are you planning on a color change to black? Wish you all the best on your build.
  63. Thanks man, yeah I sold of the old engine/transmission and front suspension. The plan is to paint it gloss black with a mopar flat-ish black hood. That part still feels a ways off though.
  64. More progress made this weekend. We made some radiator hoses to connect the LS to the Be-cool A-body radiator I already had. We used the 38mm coupler(used for the LS steam port vent) I picked up to couple the upper radiator hose.

    intake rad.jpg

    Also, you can see we switched the air intake to the other side. which worked out MUCH better. It originally couldn't go that direction with the contour fan setup, but with more trimming of the intake 90* off of the throttle body and some trimming of the fan shroud it cleared. Below is the amount we ha to trim off the fan shroud.
    fan trim.jpg
    The intake turned out simple enough. Just a big round hole in the core support with a 6" hole saw.
    intake cutout.jpg
    Then the filter fit nicely inside the grill.
    intake driver side.jpg
  65. Somehow I picture this car finished with a sinister dark charcoal metallic paint job, and semiflat black hood, and smoke tinted windows?​
  66. Y
    You are not too far off :) Assuming I ever get around to painting it... only had the car for 17 years and still haven't done it.
  67. Getting closer to firing it up hopefully. Made some progress over the weekend.

    I got the complete Tanks Inc setup and the install was pretty straight forward. Just need 2 6 -an 90* fittings and the install will be complete.
    5-30 gas tank.jpg
    Running it on a fuel pump relay mounted in the trunk by the battery.
    5-30 fuel pump relay.jpg

    I got my dad to paint the exhaust black while I was away using high temp grill paint. It turned out nicely.
    5-30 exhaust.jpg
  68. Check the location of the filler neck on the tank in relation to the hole in the valiant trunk floor. When I spoke with the guys from tanksinc at MATS, he indicated that he had to modify the floor hole location in his 69 valiant trunk by an inch or something small like that. Apparently the filler neck location on the tank differs between the 67-76 years slightly.
  69. Interesting, I didn't need to alter that. Mine seemed to fit with the stock hole in the trunk floor.
  70. That's good to hear. I think it might have been the guys from Aeromotive that I spoke to at MATS, actually. Anyhew...something to check.

    Good progress on your project. Thanks for posting.
  71. We also made a lower radiator support out of roll bar tubing to tie the frame rails together.

    5-30 lower rad brace.jpg
  72. You don't have to add a steam port. Just t into the pressure line from the water pump out to your heater core and it'll work. Did it on my LS swap. That's how trailblazer ss with 6.0's do it.
  73. Are they just the ss springs or mopars drag spring? Thanks
  74. Nice build! Nice details!
  75. Thanks! Fit typical A body or require mods to work?
  76. Does this picture have the ss springs on it or no? Thanks.
  77. A very nice direction on this great build sir :thumbsup:
  78. Great fabrication! I like post cars.
  79. In the picture you quoted those are the old SS springs.
  80. this right here is how you state your differing opinion and tastes in someone else's build thread, but stay respectful and supportive of your fellow enthusiasts. very rare skill sometimes..

    this thing is going to be sick when it's all buttoned up. looks fast just sitting there..
  81. I just got a set of these Mickey Thompson SC-5 flat black wheels 17x9 & 17x10 that are being cleared out online now.
    MT SC-5.jpg
  82. Finally running! It was quite a thrash the last couple weekends to get it together. There are still a few things to button up, but I was able to take a short little test drive. The HemiDenny front end felt great, massive steering feel change. Very precise and with good weighting(not too light). The clutch and trans felt light and easy, better than expected on the clutch, since it is rated for 800-ish hp. I still have to get the idle tuning sorted out. I'll post a video when I do. Here are a few pictures of it nearly completed.
    7-3 front.jpg
    7-3 engine.jpg
    7-3 interior.jpg
    7-3 rear.jpg
  83. Nice! Nice! Nice!
  84. Looks like a pro touring build. What are you hoping to accomplish going to the LS series of engine? Less expensive parts,more power, better handling for pro tour? Just wondering...
  85. I wasn't necessarily trying to make it a pro touring build. More just a moderate budget street car that would be enjoyable to drive. This will be my 3rd LS vehicle, so I am pretty familiar with the motor. Parts cost and massive swap community are the big bonus in my opinion. I'll take it to the drag strip once or twice, maybe an auto-x. I really just wanted to make something I was into now in 2017, rather than the car I wanted when I was 21. 38 year old me has different requirements of a car.
  86. Understood. I've had an LS and driven a few. My swap is an ls3 going in a 67 cuda. I was going to do a 451, but intend to drive it a lot. Figured the 451, like some 440's I've had wouldn't allow that. These platform makes great power and is quite docile doing so as you know. Nice build btw. I'm a follower. Good luck.anxious to see how it runs compared to the 451.
  87. Yeah, the 451 had ok power and ran decent, but I expect this one to be a bit quicker and not leave a small puddle on the garage floor constantly. I didn't put too many engine details in the thread since mopar folks might not care too much about how I built the lq4, but it has:
    A.I. 232cc ported 243 heads milled for 10.6-.7 compression(on lq4)
    230/238 on 113 LSA cam from A.I.
    Dorman ls2 intake manifold home ported.

    Hopefully it will trap 120+ in the 1/4, but time will tell.
  88. Please let me know. I was a mopar guy years ago. Now it's what works. I was comparing a 451 to an LS3, but very few videos of 440's or451's vs LS motors. Hard to believed I considered the swap, but like you, I've driven a few and the hemi isn't user friendly. I love my cuda but it's gonna have a gm heart. I like the simplicity of the 451 but the mileage,lightweight, and relialibility of the LS has it beat... Imo. Are you running a 6 speed?
  89. Agreed, and yes the car has a t56 magnum 6 speed now.
  90. I'd like to know a comparison between your car with the previous 451 compared to the LQ4 you have in there now
  91. Quick update, the car is running and the tuning is getting better.

  92. Sounds BADASS
  93. Awesome!
  94. Sounds great! Let us know how ur numbers are when you out get to the track. How's it feel compared to the 451 power wise? You have the power to settle the dispute,,, If it's worth it or not to do.
  95. Where did he go?