68 barracuda 383s "Driver Paint Resto"

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Darren

Darren

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Hey guys I am starting a tread about the progress of my 68 Barracuda 383s paint resto. I am looking to give the car a driver paint job, not looking for a Mona Lisa just something to drive around and enjoy with the wife and kids. Speaking of kids that's one reason why I will have limited time to spend on the car. And also as most know kids are reducing my budget also.. I am pretty much a rookie painter so advice will be appreciated. I am looking to keep the windows intact and doors and fenders if possible. I already rebuild the engine and painted the engine bay with single stage GG1 PPG paint myself. So the engine will be staying in.. here are some pics of the car a few weeks ago and it's current state.. I don't mind spending money on good products and it's a possibility I might even get it ready gor color and have the car painted elsewhere... thanks

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I'd leave it alone and enjoy it instead of painting it and worrying about people scratching or denting it.
 
Few more.. I know how you guys like your pictures. .

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Sedanman said:
I'd leave it alone and enjoy it instead of painting it and worrying about people scratching or denting it.
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I have drove for 2 years in this condition. .. time for a little change.
 
Pretty sweet patina you have going there.

Engine bay does look good, though.

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Unless you have access to a booth and a quality paint gun, and have experience, I'd say your plan to find somebody else to spray the color and clear is a good idea.

With body work, prep is where the majority of the labor is. It's also crucial to getting a good finish. Luckily, it's amenable to trial and error. You can keep trying until you get it right, and the added cost is your time and some relatively inexpensive filler or primer. You can even do it in your driveway with a cheap harbor freight gun and a small compressor.

On the other hand, if you screw up the base/clear, you've wasted some serious money, and starting over is not attractive. You walk into the booth, and you've essentially got one chance to get it right.

If you can find someone who is willing to spray over your prep, and he will spend the time to inspect your work and tell you where it's lacking, I'd say that's the way to go. With guidance you might even pull off the color sanding and polishing, although the risk of burning through is substantial.
 
As with any paint job, the sub-structure is the key. Its all in the body work, primer, blocking etc...Is it the original enamel paint? If so, just to strip enamel or laquer is a pain cause your paper "loads up" and it takes alot of material. Nothing like doin it yourself, so go for it!
 
This is the advice and knowledge I am looking for.. I have been in the process of purchasing the correct tools that I will be listing within a few days.. thanks
PocketAces said:
Unless you have access to a booth and a quality paint gun, and have experience, I'd say your plan to find somebody else to spray the color and clear is a good idea.

With body work, prep is where the majority of the labor is. It's also crucial to getting a good finish. Luckily, it's amenable to trial and error. You can keep trying until you get it right, and the added cost is your time and some relatively inexpensive filler or primer. You can even do it in your driveway with a cheap harbor freight gun and a small compressor.

On the other hand, if you screw up the base/clear, you've wasted some serious money, and starting over is not attractive. You walk into the booth, and you've essentially got one chance to get it right.

If you can find someone who is willing to spray over your prep, and he will spend the time to inspect your work and tell you where it's lacking, I'd say that's the way to go. With guidance you might even pull off the color sanding and polishing, although the risk of burning through is substantial.
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Pocketaces is correct in the fact that the more the you spend on prep the better the paint job comes out. Sand, sand, sand and then sand some more. The smoother the base is the better the overall paint will look. I am a very amature painter but have had some decent results. Base/clear is very east to shoot The base coat goes on and dries quickly so it makes it easy to repair a spot before you shoot the clear on if you run it. Pretty hard to run though. Clear is a little trickier as you have to find that fine line between too dry and runs. Getting in a hurry only gives you problems to take care of later. Paint boot is nice but a nice paint job can be done in a garage or even a temporary setup outside.
Not the greatest pic but I shot this in a makeshift booth at work (wet the floors and dropped a couple of tarps down from the ceiling)
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This one I cannot take credit for, my brother painted it. It was painted in a home garage and the bed was shot outside the garage on some saw horses.
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Point is don't be afraid to give it a shot. The worse that can happen is you will have to sand some more
 

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Sweet looking car, I like the old green paint. Wish someone hadn't painted the front clip on my 67 383 FB but you never know what happens back in the day.
 
First of all, i have to say i love the car and especially the color. It looks to be in outstanding condition (other than paint.)
Secondly, to paint it yourself or not is your choice, not anyone else's
Thirdly, and last, if you want a nice finish that will last, then do your homework and be honest with yourself about your abilities.
Leaving it the way it is with the patina has grown old with you and i understand that. To me, the car needs a new paint job.
"Driver quality" paint is a good choice in my opinion, (FWIW)
Enjoy the car, and post lots of pictures of the progress for us to enjoy as well!
It's all about smiles per gallon, and whatever makes you happy, bottom line............
 
Thanks Toplscuda and Dartnut well said.. the car is rust free and in no need of rust repair (from what I can see). It is mostly original paint..
 
Strip it all the way to the metal! Last one I did, I used some sanding discs for a 4" grinder. They look like a scuff pad, but they're stiff. I got them at Lowes, and it takes about one per panel. They were $7 each at the time, but may be a little more now. They won't heat the metal up and warp it like sanding discs on a big grinder. You could use Aircraft Stripper, but if you don't get it all off the car when you're done....it can ruin your new paint later. Use epoxy primer on the bare metal after you clean it with wax and grease remover, and do any filler work OVER the epoxy primer. Use a good 2K primer for all your blocking. Alternating between dark gray and light gray primer between sanding will help define low and high spots. If you decide to paint it yourself, practice on an old hood or something before you tackle the base clear. There's a lot of educational painting videos on You Tube. Good luck....and kudos to you for not being afraid to tackle it yourself!
 
Sounds like a good plan JDmopar. What do you suggest I do with the jams and inside the doors and underside of decklid? I would like to just scuff and prime..
JDMopar said:
Strip it all the way to the metal! Last one I did, I used some sanding discs for a 4" grinder. They look like a scuff pad, but they're stiff. I got them at Lowes, and it takes about one per panel. They were $7 each at the time, but may be a little more now. They won't heat the metal up and warp it like sanding discs on a big grinder. You could use Aircraft Stripper, but if you don't get it all off the car when you're done....it can ruin your new paint later. Use epoxy primer on the bare metal after you clean it with wax and grease remover, and do any filler work OVER the epoxy primer. Use a good 2K primer for all your blocking. Alternating between dark gray and light gray primer between sanding will help define low and high spots. If you decide to paint it yourself, practice on an old hood or something before you tackle the base clear. There's a lot of educational painting videos on You Tube. Good luck....and kudos to you for not being afraid to tackle it yourself!
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red scotch brite. If he paint is in ok shape in the jambs and under the hood and trunk you can scuff it and shoot it. No need to strip it. For the out side I would strip it. epoxy prime, Do any body work that needs to be done. Then high build primer, block and shoot.
 
Darren....I agree with AdamR on the jambs and under the hood + trunk. I did exactly that on the last car I stripped. You might as well expect to get a hunk or 2 torn out of your fingers in the jamb/trunk/underhood sanding process! Some of the factory spot welds may have a sharp piece of slag sticking up.....and are hard to see! Your finger tips only hurt for a month or 2 though. :eek:
 
Seeing that I am limited to time to spend on the car I was thinking if I start stripping 1 panel at a time. So say if I get a fender and door stripped in one night, how long can I let it sit before I get a coat of epoxy on the bare metal ? I should add that I will be doing all the work in my garage in Ontario Canada in summer like temperatures.. thanks
 
It won't hurt to let it sit a day or 2. It will depend on how much humidity you have in your immediate area, as to how fast the bare metal will flash rust. When I do that, I just go over it with a DA sander before applying the epoxy. I usually use a piece of half worn out 80 grit, so it will give the metal a little tooth for the epoxy to bite....but not so rough that it leaves deep scratches in the metal. I have used PPG's DP90LF epoxy, and recently used Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) epoxy primer. I like SPI's stuff better. Google Southern Polyurethane Inc. , and see if they ship to Ontario.
 
Well I got some work done today. I started stripping the paint with a 5" paint stripping pad, but it started clogging up pretty fast and it seamed to heat the panel pretty good. So I switched to a 7" (slightly used) 36 grit disc on a low speed grinder, then I hit the panel with 120 grit on a DA . I am pretty confident the grinding marks will be filled by the epoxy and high build primer. On a side note I always suspected there was some filler on the driver side fender, and sure enough it must of been hit earlier on in life. There was quite a bit of filler (maybe 1/4" thick). It was pulled and filled. I hope I can reapply the filler how it was because it was a pretty good job. Any comments or advice will be appreciated thanks.

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Darren said:
Well I got some work done today. I started stripping the paint with a 5" paint stripping pad, but it started clogging up pretty fast and it seamed to heat the panel pretty good. So I switched to a 7" (slightly used) 36 grit disc on a low speed grinder, then I hit the panel with 120 grit on a DA . I am pretty confident the grinding marks will be filled by the epoxy and high build primer. On a side note I always suspected there was some filler on the driver side fender, and sure enough it must of been hit earlier on in life. There was quite a bit of filler (maybe 1/4" thick). It was pulled and filled. I hope I can reapply the filler how it was because it was a pretty good job. Any comments or advice will be appreciated thanks.

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If you want to save time having to reapply filler, as your stripping and come across bodywork/filler leave it and hand block the filler areas with your longest hard block until the old paint is gone. Use the old paint as a guide coat. If the old filler is bubbling or cracking then you will need to dig it out
 
I'd dig it all out. You can apply a little heat to it with a propane torch, and it will scrape right off with a putty wrench or gasket scraper. When you got it off that fender, you may have noticed some surface rust on the fender, under the filler. That's why you spray the epoxy primer, and do your filler over the epoxy. When the filler starts setting up, the chemical reaction causes it to heat up. I'm talking....almost burn your hand hot! That heat creates condensation between the filler and the cooler bare metal. It can't escape....and causes the surface rust, which can eventually make the filler turn loose. Filler on top of epoxy bonds to the epoxy, but can't cause the flash rust because the epoxy has the metal sealed. If it was hit early in life, the filler nowadays is WAY better than the best thing available back then. I like Evercoat Rage Gold. Just keep working it until you get it straight. It will take several applications of filler, and plenty of sanding with a long board...but you'll get it.
 
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