68 Dart Circuit board query

Jason Maitland

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Hi All, I am replacing my Instrument Cluster circuit boards, and noticed the connections on the new board do not have impregnated "Washer" type mounts as per the original board for ALT and OIL gauges; where the respective wires hook up from behind. I was wondering if this means anything, and of course if they will still function without these metal mounts?
Please refer to my pic for a direct comparison between the old BLUE type circuit board, and new installed GREEN board showing no metal impregnated.

PXL_20221007_035408689.jpg
 

Dana67Dart

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and noticed the connections on the new board do not have impregnated "Washer" type mounts as per the original board for ALT and OIL gauges
Huuuhhhhhh!

I have no idea what you mean.

The alt gauge should not have any connection to the copper traces on the cir board. The oil "gauge" is just a idiot light.

If you are talking about the pins, the newer style pins are soldered to the cir board vs crimped to it like the OEM boards.

Some of the new boards have a solid post for a pin, some have a split / hollow post soldered to the board



Solid

Screenshot_20221007-070032.png




Hollow
Screenshot_20221007-065903.png
 

67Dart273

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Hi All, I am replacing my Instrument Cluster circuit boards, and noticed the connections on the new board do not have impregnated "Washer" type mounts as per the original board for ALT and OIL gauges; where the respective wires hook up from behind. I was wondering if this means anything, and of course if they will still function without these metal mounts?
Please refer to my pic for a direct comparison between the old BLUE type circuit board, and new installed GREEN board showing no metal impregnated.

View attachment 1715995013
Your photo is about an 1 1/2 wide........................As mentioned, the ammeter has no connection to the board.
 

Mattax

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Hi All, I am replacing my Instrument Cluster circuit boards, and noticed the connections on the new board do not have impregnated "Washer" type mounts as per the original board for ALT and OIL gauges; where the respective wires hook up from behind. I was wondering if this means anything, and of course if they will still function without these metal mounts?
Please refer to my pic for a direct comparison between the old BLUE type circuit board, and new installed GREEN board showing no metal impregnated.

View attachment 1715995013
A closeup would help. Probably just a reinforcement.
Aas already mentioned the Ammeter hookups are with ring terminals and MUST be insulated from ground and all other circuits.

All of the wires connected to the battery are hot. The ammeter is like a section of wire, except its a metal plate with two studs.
1665175359525.png




The '68 Dodge Chassis manual probably shows the boards if you need reference. Also how to take it in and out.
This is from the assembly manual and shows the routing and support.
1665174190370.png
 

Jason Maitland

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A closeup would help. Probably just a reinforcement.
Aas already mentioned the Ammeter hookups are with ring terminals and MUST be insulated from ground and all other circuits.

All of the wires connected to the battery are hot. The ammeter is like a section of wire, except its a metal plate with two studs.
View attachment 1715995195



The '68 Dodge Chassis manual probably shows the boards if you need reference. Also how to take it in and out.
This is from the assembly manual and shows the routing and support.
View attachment 1715995192
Hi Mattax/all, thanks for sending this through - awesome! I have downloaded the FSM for the 69 mdl, but to be honest I usually find the FSM to be quite ambiguous for most procedures, maybe it's just me!
Anyways, i have attached another photo for reference - please refer to the 2 metal washer type rings impregnated on the board; the new board does not have these. I'm not referring to the pins etc, I know all about these as I snapped a few off and hence replacing both boards!... Hopefulyy this photo comes through and you can see the 2 metal washer type silver coloured rings I am referring to!... there is 2 threaded studs that locate through these holes repectively and attach to wires which are secured with nuts/washers on passenger side of instrument cluster... thats why I thought it was the ammeter/oil connections, thanks

PXL_20221007_210423037.jpg
 

Mattax

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Dana knows the Dart panels.

Important thing is the power is insulated. Some use fibre washers. Might depend on the amount clearance around them.

Not sure what manual you have that's amiguous.
The '68 Plymouth FSM is pretty specific.

Here's this is a snip from the '67 Barrcuda I made a copy and printed off to have with me in the garage when I was working on it.
1665186031403.png


Also used it to mark up and keep track of the wire positions on the pins.
1665186103217.png


It also had a step by step on how to remove it. While not perfect it was a decent guidance. Dana probably can say more about the Dodge books.

Thing is these car lines are different in the '60s and also there are minor but often important small changes to the wiring from year to year. So you really want a '68 for your '68.
 

Dana67Dart

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Blue is the cluster housing
Green is the cir board
White is the washers

On the back of the ammeter is a rectangular fiber insulator.

On the cluster housing there is a space for the posts to go through ( rectangular holes IIRC)

Then the cir board is attached to the back of the cluster housing

Then the washers


Then 2 nuts


Then the eyelet connectors, one from the alt, one from to the battery

Then 2 more nuts.

The " impregnated Washer" you refer to is just the washers that got stuck to the cir board coating after 55 years.

They should just pop off with a small screwdriver or a razor blade.


Screenshot_20221007-180201.png


PXL_20221008_003121087.jpg


PXL_20221008_003223181.jpg


PXL_20221008_003136544.jpg

Note the bright green is the copper traces, the dark green is the protective coating (sometimes it's blue)


There is NO copper traces under the coating where the ammeter goes through.

On the green cir board you can see the outline of where the washers sat at one time



On a side note.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUTS EXCESSIVLY.

you can damage the gauges.
 
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Jason Maitland

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Blue is the cluster housing
Green is the cir board
White is the washers

On the back of the ammeter is a rectangular fiber insulator.

On the cluster housing there is a space for the posts to go through ( rectangular holes IIRC)

Then the cir board is attached to the back of the cluster housing

Then the washers


Then 2 nuts


Then the eyelet connectors, one from the alt, one from to the battery

Then 2 more nuts.

The " impregnated Washer" you refer to is just the washers that got stuck to the cir board coating after 55 years.

They should just pop off with a small screwdriver or a razor blade.


View attachment 1715995266

View attachment 1715995271

View attachment 1715995273

View attachment 1715995272
Note the bright green is the copper traces, the dark green is the protective coating (sometimes it's blue)


There is NO copper traces under the coating where the ammeter goes through.

On the green cir board you can see the outline of where the washers sat at one time



On a side note.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUTS EXCESSIVLY.

you can damage the gauges.
Hi Dana... Thanks so much for answering my question about the washers that are stuck!!
Now, is it absolutely necessary that I remove them and fit to the new circuit boards? I tried removing them, as I thought , as you have stated, that they were simply stuck due to age; however mine are stuck proper, and I fear I may damage the old circuit board if I pry too hard to remove them? Perhaps, IF it's absolutely necessary to have them installed on the new circuit board I could use fresh washers? For now I have just fitted the nuts etc without those washers... Thanks again!
 

Dana67Dart

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The washers distribute the load.

I would buy some at the hardware store.

They are just washers
 

RustyRatRod

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Ok, since nobody else is gonna say it, you said impregnated. heh heh heh huh huh huh.
 

Jason Maitland

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Hi Dana... Thanks so much for answering my question about the washers that are stuck!!
Now, is it absolutely necessary that I remove them and fit to the new circuit boards? I tried removing them, as I thought , as you have stated, that they were simply stuck due to age; however mine are stuck proper, and I fear I may damage the old circuit board if I pry too hard to remove them? Perhaps, IF it's absolutely necessary to have them installed on the new circuit board I could use fresh washers? For now I have just fitted the nuts etc without those washers... Thanks again!
Hi Dana... so today I refitted the instrument cluster, however... I could not figure out how to plug the pin type connectors back in; I tried doing it before fitting up the cluster but couldn't seem to that way, so thought best I just fit the cluster itself, including the steer column etc, and I'll be able to patiently push the connectors on. However, I tried and tried and cannot seem to get them plugged back on; I also do NOT want to force anything especially given I already broke one of the original ones. Just thought I'd reach out and get your experienced thoughts on this, as I'm obviously a bit deflated after all the effort I've gone to restoring the plastics etc, and consequently damaging some of that work in the process of refitting...
 

Jason Maitland

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Hi everyone... here's an update to my cluster resto, reinstallation...

So, somehow I got everything in and re-connected (not sure how I connected up the circuit boards / pin connectors without breaking anything, as they are such a tight, tight fit. Maybe I should use some elec grease lube next time!), anyways everything was working as it should, including 1 turn signal indicator light! (better than none as was before!)... however, after about 1 day the light for the speedometer starting fading and has now died completely on me. Does anyone know IF you can possibly reach in behind and unscrew the globe/holder from the circuit board? I've had a look but it seems there's no way you can successfully reach in and unscrew any of the bulb holders insitu? So, rather than face the prospect of pulling it all apart again (Steering Column drop is most annoying), I thought I would ask here first!
On a side note, my fuel gauge has started to work intermittently - one day it does, another day it doesn't, irrespective of fuel level - please see pic attached of my sender, which seems to be self grounding to the tank itself... I've read other threads that say to test the sender simply, I should attach a wire to the connector on the sender (where the gauge wire attaches to) and run that wire I've attached to a ground on the body, then turn on the ignition to see if the gauge reads / goes to full... If someone can advise around this would be great... thanks again:)
 
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