70 Duster suspension parts..detail colors

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carcrazyguy

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Does anyone have a picture of a correctly detailed front supension on a 70-71 A body? I am wanting to get my suspension somewhat close to the way the factory did it and would like to verify colors (and paint dabs) if possible.

Are these colors close....?

K member - gloss black
lower control arms - silver with gold (no gloss) cosmoline coating
upper control arms - gloss black
spindles - natural metal
torsion bars - flat black
center link for steering - natural metal
rods from lower control arm to front of K member - silver/grey
 
Does anyone have a picture of a correctly detailed front supension on a 70-71 A body? I am wanting to get my suspension somewhat close to the way the factory did it and would like to verify colors (and paint dabs) if possible.

Are these colors close....?

K member - gloss black
lower control arms - silver with gold (no gloss) cosmoline coating
upper control arms - gloss black
spindles - natural metal
torsion bars - flat black
center link for steering - natural metal
rods from lower control arm to front of K member - silver/grey

First off, what kind of level of restoration are you aiming for?: OE Nats, to place at large judged mopar shows: Nats, Carlise, Spring Fling, Vegas...

Here's the corrections to those colors.

K member - semi gloss black
lower control arms - natural and the LCA was dunked in gold no gloss cosmoline coating Trick- use kylon battery protectant spray and let is drip down toward the bushing.
upper control arms - semi gloss black
spindles - natural metal
torsion bars - semi gloss black with line of drips from being dunked in paint.
center link for steering - natural metal
rods from lower control arm to front of K member - natural metal

All of the "natural" bolts and nuts are black phosphate, silver cad, or gold cad plated. About the only bolts and nuts you don't have to plate are internal engine and engine-paint-covered bolts and nuts.

The thing is, natural metal is not very practical on a vehicle that is driven much. Natural metal should not all look the same. There are unpainted natural surfaces that are: forged, cast iron, stamped sheet, swaged rivets, machined areas, etc. Each will have an unique look. That seems like a big task, but there are ways around it and the result will look a lot more impressive than spray bombing everything the same grey color. Contrast looks impressive on the undercarriage.

Troy from Westoaks Mopar Performance restored a 40K mile Challenger T/A to OE-like standards. BUT he wanted to be able to drive the car. So he painted all the natural metal areas. But each different type of natural surface got an unique rattle can spray shade/color/treatment.

Here's a VERY helpful how-to link for refinishing natural metal finishes on the undercarriage: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=A12&Number=2669919&fpart=&PHPSESSID= Those techniques can surely be done at home by the non professional.

That T/A was restored in a two car garage without a rotisserie OR lift. Only things that were farmed out was the paint, individual gauge restoration, and the engine machining.

Here's some of the results (sorry for the size but it helps):

9_16_07TroyTA18.JPG


http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a1_06TroyTA01.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a2_16_07TroyTA06.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/9_16_07TroyTA17.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/9_16_07TroyTA18.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA05.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA15.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA22.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA42.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA43.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA49.JPG
http://www.cpwclub.com/membercars/a9_16_07TroyTA55.JPG
 
Thanks for the info...

As for the resto. I would call it more of a "garage built" restoration. I just want it be close to the way the factory did it. This car will most likely never be entered in a judged car show. I am just trying to do each one of my cars better than the car before.
 
Thanks for the info...

As for the resto. I would call it more of a "garage built" restoration. I just want it be close to the way the factory did it. This car will most likely never be entered in a judged car show. I am just trying to do each one of my cars better than the car before.

Totally understood. It doesn't take really that much more time to paint and plate things the right colors. It may seen a pain to plate all the bolts and brackets but that stuff actually preserves the parts and keeps them looking better for longer.

When there is just enough space to walk between your engine block and your washing machine.... you have a garage built.

a2_16_07TroyTA06.JPG
 
Great posts autoxcuda........Thank You :thumbup:
 
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