71 duster all signal lights shorted

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slidey06

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Long story short, I have a 71 duster, I rewired the bulkhead connector wires so they just run through a grommet in an aluminum plate. after this, my battery + and - were shorted together. With the back of the dash unplugged the battery was no longer getting continuity. I Tested around, cut all of the wires, found that my power was grounding through all of the 1157/1156 bulbs in the front and rear, with the old bulbs in, my power wires grounded, with them out, they were fine. I replaced one with an LED and it was fine. The blue wire for the fuel sending unit and the two horn power spades are also showing to be grounded. What could have caused this, should I be fine if I just replace the lights or should I search further? let me know if I can provide anymore information.

Thanks, Jeremy
 
What you are claiming is mostly impossible. In other words you are missing something important, and probably a lot simpler
1....What did you mean, "tested around and cut all the wires?" Cut WHAT wires?
2....Just how did you determine that the "battery + and - are shorted together?"
3....Just how did you determine that the "bulbs are grounding?"

WHAT are you using to conclude all this?

SO.............

A...DO NOT use continuity/ ohms to test for grounding like this

B....If you believe the battery connection is shorted to ground, do this: Get a large wattage bulb, such as 1156/ 1157 and socket, and wire that from the battery NEG post to the battery NEG post clamp. This puts the lamp in SERIES with ground, so that if there is a short, the lamp will light brightly. Then you can "casually" go around and look for the short---remove fuses, disconnect components (and don't for get the alternator) The test lamp will protect the system from burning anything up

C....Is the car wired "stock" other than you eliminating the bulkhead connector? Are you reasonably sure you reconnected the wires through it the same as they had been?

D....What about the big red and the big black ammeter wires which have eyelets attaching those wires to the ammeter on the cluster? For testing, you must bolt or jumper them together and SAFELY insulate THEM FROM GROUND. BLACK is ALMOST NEVER GROUND and both those ammeter wires are ALWAYS HOT

E....If you seem to get nowhere, disconnect the alternator big wire from the stud and tape it, and pull all the fuses. See if your test/ safety lamp in the ground goes out. Make certain all switches, dome lights, etc, everything is switched "OFF."
 
I've posted this before, and I'm not trying to single you out. WE cannot see what you have. We only know what you tell us. This board, here is a two way street. If you want meaningful information, and if you expect some of us to put time in trying to help you, YOU need to answer questions asked of you. I, and others, have a good reason for asking them.
 

I guess I should start with what does work If finding ground through continuity doesn't work well. everything works exactly has it should and has except for my radio which isn't powering on even with power at the fuse its jumped to, and im not getting power back out of my holley fuel injection system. im getting 12v going in at both wires that should be powered.
 
Man I'm sorry, I simply do not understand. You say "everything works except the radio." That surely is not true or you would not have posted what you did earlier???

Please go up and read post2 and answer those questions

What do you mean you are "not getting power OUT of my Holley EFI? Power out of what?

And since you have EFI, this must mean that at least PART of the car must not be stock wiring.

What DOES work?

1...Does the key power up ANY accessories in the ACC (not the run) position? Like wipers, heater blower, etc?

2....Using the key as intended, does anything that is supposed to be powered in "run" work? Warning lamps? gauges?

3...Twisting the key to start does the starter operate? Do you have spark?


You have got to get the idea here THAT WE CANNOT SEE what you have. You have to explain in a way that makes sense
 
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