Dome light doesn't work. During troubleshooting found both switches corroded. Top one is from pax side and cleaned up good...now delivers continuity/break in continuity. Bottom one is from driver's side and the prongs don't make contact You can see plastic coming down which keeps two of the prongs from making contact...any insight? Does anyone know if it's normal to have plastic under two of the prongs? Most sites show the driver's side door jam switch to be the same as the driver's side...I bought he car when it was ten years old...so it might not have the original driver's side switch. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

Here is the photo...hopefully.

 

Thanks for the info Dubob. The 3 pin connector has one stud that is badly corroded so I'll need the plug too....if I can't find one to wire in, I'm contemplating seeing if I can carefully remove the metal pins from the plastic and push new ones in....OR using the two prong connector and putting two wires together on one prong. When the switch opens it provides continuity to ground for all three wires so open it should work fine...I don't know how connecting two of the wires will work when the switch is closed with no continuity...seems to me like it should, but I'm electrically challenged.

 

Going with the original 3 prong...I traced out the wires and got positive test results on 2: yellow-dome light; black-door buzzer. Didn’t know how to test yellow striped-time delay. Now to get a new switch from Van’s.