71 valiant distributer, pertronix ignitor 1, and points... questions

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MCPObr44

MCPObr44

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Hello
So I have been meaning to ask this for quite a while. I was doing a little diagnosis a while ago for my 71 valiant (225 /6) that had a odd misfire, and I found myself nose first in the distributor checking and replacing the cap and rotor. As I was fiddling around I noticed to my extreme surprise that at some point someone retrofitted the car with a pertronix ignitor 1 before I bought it. That's nice and all but I originally bought the car because I wanted... yes wanted the old points and condenser system. I understand the benefits of the electronic ignition but I would like to have a complete setup of points and condenser ready to stab in if something goes wrong somewhere down the line.

Since the original parts are long gone, could someone with personal experience installing those pertronix kits tell me what parts I need to buy in order to restore the original system? Do I just need the points and condenser set and nothing else? How about hardware, mounting plates, adjusting screws, wires, ect? I still have the ballast resistors and the coil looks to be original.
 
MCPObr44 said:
Hello
So I have been meaning to ask this for quite a while. I was doing a little diagnosis a while ago for my 71 valiant (225 /6) that had a odd misfire, and I found myself nose first in the distributor checking and replacing the cap and rotor. As I was fiddling around I noticed to my extreme surprise that at some point someone retrofitted the car with a pertronix ignitor 1 before I bought it. That's nice and all but I originally bought the car because I wanted... yes wanted the old points and condenser system. I understand the benefits of the electronic ignition but I would like to have a complete setup of points and condenser ready to stab in if something goes wrong somewhere down the line.

Since the original parts are long gone, could someone with personal experience installing those pertronix kits tell me what parts I need to buy in order to restore the original system? Do I just need the points and condenser set and nothing else? How about hardware, mounting plates, adjusting screws, wires, ect? I still have the ballast resistors and the coil looks to be original.
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You could send it to our member @halifaxhops and he can get it straight for you... He has a Sun distributor machine and rebuilds distributors... He does a great job and the cars run great after he goes through them... He's done a few for some of the members on here... I've had a few done by him....
 
Usually they just pull the points and condenser out and mount them in and remove the lead wire and of course the hold down screws.. I have all the Mentioned parts if you want to bring it back to OEM. Shoot me a message.
 
Just thinking you might want to check the distributor number to make sure the curve is right before you do it.
 
halifaxhops said:
Just thinking you might want to check the distributor number to make sure the curve is right before you do it.
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H.H.....: Factory stuff ,is SOOOO much more reliable, than the afternoon aftermarket stuff ,attention to detail, is absolutely key.
 
krazykuda said:
You could send it to our member @halifaxhops and he can get it straight for you... He has a Sun distributor machine and rebuilds distributors... He does a great job and the cars run great after he goes through them... He's done a few for some of the members on here... I've had a few done by him....
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Actually removing the distributor might be a little much for me considering my inexperience, and because this is a daily driver.
 
MCPObr44 said:
Actually removing the distributor might be a little much for me considering my inexperience, and because this is a daily driver.
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Before you pull the distributor, take the cap off and take a picture of where the rotor is pointing and make note which cylinder number it was on the cap so you can put it back in the proper orientation...
 
Pull the distributor, check the numbers and replace the distributor drive gear. That would suck to be stranded due to such a cheap part!
 
krazykuda said:
Before you pull the distributor, take the cap off and take a picture of where the rotor is pointing and make note which cylinder number it was on the cap so you can put it back in the proper orientation...
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Will I need a timing light for this job? I don't actually own one yet because I am on the lookout for a quality older one. I just ordered a dwell meter/VM/tach and it's on it's way in the mail.
 
I pretty much know what you need. Points, condenser, distributor lead and screw and yes a drive gear is a good ide to change now. I should have it all if needed. If the car runs pretty good now don't worry about the curve.
 
MCPObr44 said:
Will I need a timing light for this job? I don't actually own one yet because I am on the lookout for a quality older one. I just ordered a dwell meter/VM/tach and it's on it's way in the mail.
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When you do order a light make sure it has an inductive pick up. Way easier to use.
 
MCPObr44 said:
Will I need a timing light for this job? I don't actually own one yet because I am on the lookout for a quality older one. I just ordered a dwell meter/VM/tach and it's on it's way in the mail.
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Yes, you will need a timing light to set the timing when you reinstall the distributor...
 
MCPObr44 said:
Alright I'll redouble my efforts to get a timing light (inductive one).
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I like the advance timing lights with the dial so you can map your curve and it's also easier to set total timing with the dial advance timing lights...
 
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