72 duster 440 swap

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Duster 72

Duster 72

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Thompson falls Montana
Hi there my name is Josh and I live in Western Montana having a little trouble with my rb swap into my 72 duster. Motor and transmission is in the car but everything acts like it's got to go back 3/4 of an inch to clear the steering and bolt to the trans crossmember looking for some advice and words of encouragement FYI all work that is being done is outside on the dirt in the elements
 
motor mounts on the wrong side of the bosses?? Welcome, by the way :)
 
Duster 72 said:
Yes was a slant 6 my wife bought me a set thru trans dapt
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never experienced trans dapt, but heard there were some fitment issues. I'd personally start with the tranny, and get it mounted first. We know the cross member is in the correct location. If you have the correct tranny mount for the car, then we know the tranny would be located correctly. It's just a matter of seeing what's wrong with the motor mounts at that point.
 
The first thing I do when doing the big block swap is locate the transmission to the mount, install bolts loosely.
 
Ok will give that a try if the motor mounts need to be slotted will that cause any issues with integrity? I wouldn't think so. Won't be able to give it a try until this weekend.well with weather permitting been snowing and raining here
 
Duster 72 said:
Ok ... Will that cure the steering issue with the oil pan? And I made sure I bought the right pan I got the one with the factory dent
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I'm not there, so I can't tell you.
I can tell you the trans needs to be located in the proper spot first.
I use shims to raise and manipulate the engine on the mounts.
I also use manual steering boxes and manual brakes.
 
fishmens67 said:
I'm not there, so I can't tell you.
I can tell you the trans needs to be located in the proper spot first.
I use shims to raise and manipulate the engine on the mounts.
I also use manual steering boxes and manual brakes.
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Shims? My car is manual steering and brakes I understand what a shim is but how thick do you use and how do you use them? First car build always built trucks and ramchargers so plz elaborate lol I'm not stupid but a sever lack of a body knowledge if that makes sense
 
The shims go between the mount and k frame. how many ? depends ,try to get the intake carburetor mounting pad level.
Sometimes it don't work that way, but you need to get it as close to level as possible.
I cut various gauges of sheet metal for shims
 
Ok got motor and transmission in and bolted down pulled everything ack out put my hipos on and did a little cutting and grinding on my steering column however can't get it to work am I missing something? How far back do I need to cut the coupler?
 
Duster 72 said:
Shims? My car is manual steering and brakes I understand what a shim is but how thick do you use and how do you use them? First car build always built trucks and ramchargers so plz elaborate lol I'm not stupid but a sever lack of a body knowledge if that makes sense
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go to the hardware store and get several 3/4" flat washers . About $4.00 worth . cut a slot in each washer the same width as the hole . Set engine on the mounts loose . If something hits , jack up engine and insert one washer per side between the k-frame and the mount . Lower engine and check for clearance . If still hitting raise engine and put another washer in per side . Lower engine and check clearance . If something still hits do not add more washers something else iswrong . If all goes well tighten everything down . The engine MUST be level side to side . To accomplish this the car must be level side to side . Ask me how I know . Good luck and welcome ! Also , previous posts are valid too , start with the tranny attached to the tranny mount .
 
383Scampman said:
go to the hardware store and get several 3/4" flat washers . About $4.00 worth . cut a slot in each washer the same width as the hole . Set engine on the mounts loose . If something hits , jack up engine and insert one washer per side between the k-frame and the mount . Lower engine and check for clearance . If still hitting raise engine and put another washer in per side . Lower engine and check clearance . If something still hits do not add more washers something else iswrong . If all goes well tighten everything down . The engine MUST be level side to side . To accomplish this the car must be level side to side . Ask me how I know . Good luck and welcome ! Also , previous posts are valid too , start with the tranny attached to the tranny mount .
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Are you talking 3/4 inch in diameter because 3/4 inch thick seems odd forgive the stupid question but wanted to make sure
 
Ok guys been awhile since I have posted anything on here. Long work hrs and bad weather been keeping me inside. However motor and transmission are mounted in car along with front suspension and disc brake conversion also rear end is in and wheels and tires on all four corners. Here's a few pics
IMG_20200315_103146.jpg
IMG_20200328_130308.jpg
IMG_20200322_174733.jpg
IMG_20200329_180718.jpg
 
Duster 72 said:
Ok ... Will that cure the steering issue with the oil pan? And I made sure I bought the right pan I got the one with the factory dent
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Josh

Nice Duster, & great wheel choice. Post more pictures!

I believe I'm using the same oil pan as you on my '68 383 Dart. If you are using the one with 187 stamped on the rear 1/2 of it, mine interfered with the center link right where the cutout ends. A little hammer persuasion created the clearance I needed. Hopefully, with your completed installation/mounting, you didn't need to--please report back & let us know what pan you used (is it the 187?), and if your installation gave you the clearance you needed!

Duster 72 said:
Ok everything bolted up into car everything is level however manifolds won't fit header choices? Can't afford shumacher or tti
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Can you show us pictures of the left side of the engine bay & how your manifold fits? It looks like you are using a mid-70's manifold that I used to see on 400's in C-bodies back in the day. But show us how all that looks.
 
6-david-5 said:
Josh

Nice Duster, & great wheel choice. Post more pictures!

I believe I'm using the same oil pan as you on my '68 383 Dart. If you are using the one with 187 stamped on the rear 1/2 of it, mine interfered with the center link right where the cutout ends. A little hammer persuasion created the clearance I needed. Hopefully, with your completed installation/mounting, you didn't need to--please report back & let us know what pan you used (is it the 187?), and if your installation gave you the clearance you needed!



Can you show us pictures of the left side of the engine bay & how your manifold fits? It looks like you are using a mid-70's manifold that I used to see on 400's in C-bodies back in the day. But show us how all that looks.
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I don't know if it gave me the clearance on the pan yet. Don't have the column in. It is the 187 pan however the manifold I have is wrong for my application I gotta find a hipo exhaust manifold bought for a different project and tried to use it but no luck
 
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