72 Duster Resurrection

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Just an FYI, KYB gas adjust shocks are listed at rock auto for A body mopar half what you would pay for em on ebay.
 
Guess I need to finish breaking the front end apart and look at everything to decide how far I want to go here.

For example, do I need new tie rod sleeves or can I reuse them? I will need to see what condition they are in to decide that.

I called PST and they said they were not able to split/customize rebuild kits...hmm

So using your suggestions, I have put together my own kit piece by piece so I can get exactly what I want. Have a look at these two orders:

Prothane for all control arm bushings (and lower bump stops)
Front_end_Prothane_order.JPG


All other parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, tie rod sleeves, shocks,etc. from rock auto:

upload_2017-9-28_11-31-11.png


Am I missing anything?

Also, got any experience with Monroe for shocks? These look hardcore and are only a few bucks more for the pair than 2 KYB shocks:

monroe_shocks.JPG


I am also putting together this order for the brakes:

brakes_rockauto_order.JPG


Let me know if anything jumps out at you.

Thanks!
 
moparmat2000 said:
I even got new LCA pins that are drilled and have grease fittings in them from somewhere else on the net, i think "firm feel inc." to grease the poly LCA bushings.
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I like that idea, but new greasable LCA pins are $100 for the pair from Firm Feel Inc, so i may just stay with the stock ones and spray some grease on em if need be

moparmat2000 said:
Do you plan on painting and spiffing up when you do the front end?
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I will at least sandblast and paint everything I take off. I know a guy around town who has good prices on powdercoating......the money pit continues.

moparmat2000 said:
Also do you have a grease gun, since you will need to pump up all the joints w grease before you drive it down to a wheel alignment shop when your done.
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Yep, I have one....somewhere. May just get a new one. A man can not have too many tools.
 
Check the tierod adjusting sleeves. If really crusty when they come apart then replace them.

I ordered a complete set of ball joints and tie rod ends made by XRF off ebay. Normally i wouldent suggest Ebay, however i know the XRF brand. They sell to repair shops only. The parts are priced about competitive with moog and AC delco however they dont cut corners because they dont sell to retail stores, plus moog quality went down hill when they moved manufacturing off shore.

If curious about XRF, research them online. They are a little known Canadian company. Their stuff is designed and manufactured to a high standard for longevity since they sell to repair shops only typically, they dont want a high failure rate, because shops wont carry them if they did, because shops wouls lose customers if the parts failed.

I got mine from an ebay seller called undermycar. The shipping added up individually to $66, but prior to me buying, he agreed to refund all the shipping charges except $20 after i clicked buy it now in my cart. I thought that was pretty fair. I have a full set of XRF for my 67 cuda, and now for the 69 cuda.

I did not order the XRF brand idler arm from them, because i got one on closeout from rockauto for $9.20 in another order of stuff. That idler arm is still on closeout but is $11.20 now.

If you order these from undermycar tell the seller that moparmat2000 sent you.
 
On your ball joints you have not mentioned if you are using the large joint upper arms. If so then you will need to order

1974-1976 A body disc brake front end
Upper ball joint (2)
Lower ball joint L
Lower ball joint R
Outer tie rod end (2)

1968-1972 A body front end (disc or drum)
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Inner tie rod end (2)
 
Found the greasable shafts on evilbay for $85. Still pricy. My sons 69 we will just grease em up good on installation. I have greasable ones 4 my car i bought from firm feel w poly LCA bushings before they were available seperately.
 
Easy way to look up XRF parts for your car is to look on rock auto even if the only XRF part it seems they have listed is the idler arm. XRF uses moog part numbers example

Moog mopar large upper ball joint is K772
XRF part number for the same part is XRF K772

They just add the XRF prefix to the front
 
Thanks for the info on the XRF stuff, I will look it up.

I will refine my shopping list and report back.

I will be traveling for the next few days but should be back at the duster next week
 
moparmat2000 said:
Just an FYI, KYB gas adjust shocks are listed at rock auto for A body mopar half what you would pay for em on ebay.
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Random question on those KYB's, I bought a 72 Demon off a guy 2 weeks ago and it had KYB's all around. Are they decent? Will I need to swap em out when I move up to a V8 or can I still use em?
 
Good shocks for the price. Hotchkis sport suspension sells these with i believe bilsteins as an upgrade. So they must be decent. I bought a set of 4 for my 67 notch, car shell is on rotisserie. When done i cant wait to install them. I need a set for a 69 notch i got. If you dont want em, and they look fairly new, pull em out, and make me a deal on em i cant refuse. I can get em for $20 and some odd each new at rockauto.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Good shocks for the price. Hotchkis sport suspension sells these with i believe bilsteins as an upgrade. So they must be decent. I bought a set of 4 for my 67 notch, car shell is on rotisserie. When done i cant wait to install them.
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Ok good, I have the KYB shocks and hotchkis tie rods. Torsion bars and control arms also aftermarket, idk which brand. Hoping to keep using them all after I drop in a 340 so it's a smaller shopping list down the road.
 
I am using them with a 408-410 i plan on building. Same number lists for a big block. The shocks are only essentially vibration dampers, so slsnty to big block it makes sense for it to be the same part numbers.

Heres an FYI for you. Follow along, If you have stock 340 torsion bars and an all steel small block and front end, and you lighten your front end by 200 lbs, weather it be using aluminum on the engine, or fiberglass front clip parts, or both, you essentially stiffen the 340 torsion bars to a stiffness as if you used 383 bars.

So using V8 340 bars and putting your front end on a 200 lb diet, stiffens it right up.
 
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On my 67 I am going to run manual disc brakes, my engine will have alum heads, intake, i updated the front of the engine to run an aluminum late model water pump instead of the stock steel pump. I am using a mini denso alternator, with .125" thick aluminum brackets. Also using an aluminum and plastic M body master cylinder, and an aluminum radiator. I'd love to run one of those lightweight modded borgeson GM power steering boxes. I dont have the coin so its not happening. Anyhow this removed a bunch of weight. 340 torsion bars can also be found in 318 cars with factory A/C mopar installed them because of the added weight of the A/C
 
moparmat2000 said:
On my 67 I am going to run manual disc brakes, my engine will have alum heads, intake, i updated the front of the engine to run an aluminum late model water pump instead of the stock steel pump. I am using a mini denso alternator, with .125" thick aluminum brackets. Also using an aluminum and plastic M body master cylinder, and an aluminum radiator. I'd love to run one of those lightweight modded borgeson GM power steering boxes. I dont have the coin so its not happening. Anyhow this removed a bunch of weight. 340 torsion bars can also be found in 318 cars with factory A/C mopar installed them because of the added weight of the A/C
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This sounds like a similar route that I'm going with my Demon. 340 with lots of alum. on the motr and front end. I think it was on jegs, there was an aftermarket steering box that cut out the slop the stock ones had, only catch is you had to shorten your steering column Borgeson 800126: Power Steering Conversion Box 1962-1972 Mopar | JEGS

Other than that I just need to get a V8 k member, get a 8.75" rear, get a 340 and sturdy 5-6spd manual (855 or Tremec t56), and in the meantime do some body work. Costs will no doubt drag out my build for a while
 
Yup thats the box.

I am going with a faster ratio M body cop car box, and using longer C body idler and pitman arms. To speed up the ratio. The longer C body arms were what they used on the T/A and AAR E bodies to speed up the steering ratio. Plus i am using a 74 K frame. Theres some differences.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Yup thats the box.

I am going with a faster ratio M body cop car box, and using longer C body idler and pitman arms. To speed up the ratio. The longer C body arms were what they used on the T/A and AAR E bodies to speed up the steering ratio. Plus i am using a 74 K frame. Theres some differences.
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I figure that upgrade box will do, the stock box is manageable for me so an upgrade on that will be just peachy

Don't mean to hijack the Captain's thread, but do you think you could sub to my thread? 72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto

I'm probably gonna be doing a bunch of work along the same lines as him, and throughout the whole thread you definitely seem to know your stuff. That'd be a huge help once mine gets underway.
 
I'm back in town and now having to deal with a an issue with my roof (thanks Harvey) so time to work on the Duster is limited but Im still getting all the parts I need ordered.

I will post an update when I can
 
I think I have most of my parts picked out and ready to order but I have a question:

moparmat2000 said:
You will need the A body disc brake hoses from 74 to 76, disc brake proportioning valve for A body from 74 to 76
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So all drum brake cars did not have proportioning valves and now that I am putting disk brakes in the front I will need a prop valve, correct?

Any thoughts on which one? Standard places like rock auto and autozone dont have them.

I found this thread: Which proportioning valve should I use??

which discusses these two parts from summit:

Classic Performance Brake Proportioning Valves PV-2

Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves 260-11179

Anyone have thoughts? Just for reference, Im putting 1974 front disk brakes in a 1972 all drum car.
 
i would check with Inline Tube, I bet they carry the correct distribution block for your app. your brake lines are 40 years old and very small to begin with. repop lines are cheap investment to your safety. I know, it ALL adds up!!
 
I got a kit from inline tube for 74 disc brake duster for my 67 barracuda since i upgraded everything to 74 up disc drum combo, and the 67 barracuda is the same wherlbase. Its cheap compared to the aggravation of double flairing your own lines. Plus the 74 disc brake kit will set the lines where the proportioning valve is supposed to go alongside the framerail. I have a double flair kit, and did double flair all the brakelines in a 1960 el camino i redid. I upgraded to discs and a dual master. Nobody made a kit for that. If they had a kit, i woulda just bought it.
 
I also recommend if your going thru it and changing everything out for new lines included, use DOT 5 silicone based fluid, and mark your master cylinder as such so dot 3 doesnt get mixed in later on by accident. Dot 5 is silicone based. It doesnt collect moisture like dot 3 does eventually causing rust in the system, also dot 3 will strip paint off your cars paint job like paint stripper will if left on long enough. Dot 5 wont do that.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I also recommend if your going thru it and changing everything out for new lines included, use DOT 5 silicone based fluid, and mark your master cylinder as such so dot 3 doesnt get mixed in later on by accident. Dot 5 is silicone based. It doesnt collect moisture like dot 3 does eventually causing rust in the system, also dot 3 will strip paint off your cars paint job like paint stripper will if left on long enough. Dot 5 wont do that.
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Can definitely verify that. Had a spare bottle of it in the back of my dakota, tipped over and leaked thru the tool box. Paint just gooped up and peeled off :( Curious, where does DOT4 come into the brake fluid mix?
 
I dunno. But dot 5 is what they use on motorcycles. Nobody in that crowd wants effed up paint. When we restored my dads 79 lil red express,we put a dot 5 placard on the reservoir, and dot 5 in the system. Braking performance was unchanged.
 
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