72 Scamp Street/Strip Build. Looking for some opinions and combos

Mopar Racers Forum

  1. dugascarman

    dugascarman Member

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    Hi FABO Members,
    I'm 19 and building my '72 Scamp to run on the track with the occasional street drive to cruise, go to the occasional car show, etc. Looking to run 7.30-7.50 in the 1/8th. The car is going to have no back seat, no heater box, will have a fuel cell. Car has currently been mini tubbed with the springs relocated in about 3-4 inches. At this time I am currently unsure of the weight of the car. So far I have acquired a small block 360 LA, a pair of J heads with 2.02/1.60 valves and mild port work done, Keith Black KB107 Pistons, Proform (Holley) 750 Race Carb, Holley Strip Dominator Intake. Car Already has an untouched A Body 8.75 Rear End. I'm looking for some ideas/reccomendations on combos. Was thinking possibly a 4.30 gear with 4,000-4,500 stall as per previously stated that the car will see the occasional street drive. Looking for some fairly cheap ideas on engine work, transmission etc. Would love to hear some of your guy's combos as well. Thanks for the help - Chris
     
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    • Bobzilla

      Bobzilla Well-Known Member

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      Sounds like you already have most of your engine parts, so get the shortblock set up, measure everything for the actual compression ratio figures, and then call a good camshaft grinder and get their recommendation for a camshaft based on your combo.
      Sounds like it will be a good combo to reach your goals.
       
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      • QuickDart360

        QuickDart360 Well-Known Member

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        For cam I went with a mopar 292/508 cam. Since it's a hydraulic no need for adjustable valvetrain. I have same engine and KB107 flat top pistons but X-heads instead. But other grinds from companies like howards or racer brown are nice cams too!!! Not a fan of comp cams. Lunati also comes. To mind.
         
      • 72Dart6pack

        72Dart6pack Harder Better Faster Stronger.

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        Stroke that Bad Boy to a 408. 360's are for Grandpa's car. Lol
         
      • AJ/FormS

        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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        At 3100pounds and sealevel, that calculates to 350 hp, for superstock suspension.Doable for cast-iron heads.
        At 3300 you'll need 375 hp, getting tougher for a 360
        At 3500 you'll need 400hp and good thing it's mostly a racecar
        As you can see, each 200 pounds translates to 25hp , or another way of looking at it is; every 8 pounds costs you 1hp ; start dieting,lol.
        Happy HotRodding.... wish I was 19 again.
         
      • rumblefish360

        rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away

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      • JBurch

        JBurch Well-Known Member

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        Suspension and tire work: 6 cylinder T-bars up front, with 3 way adj shocks, make sure your drums do not drag. You may want to consider up grading to front disks and big bolt pattern rear axles; small bolt pattern wheel selection is slim. 275x60/15 drag radials, or 28x9/15 slicks is all the tire you need. SS rear springs and an adj pinion snubber; you'll need some one to weld a reinforcement plate on the floor pan where the snubber will hit; other wise you'll just pound a dent into the floor pan, adj rear shocks.
         
      • furrystump

        furrystump Well-Known Member

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        Well on your way for making the power, so I’ll just stick to gear and suspension. 4:10 is about as low as I would go and drive it on the street. 318 front torsion bars gives you a good amount of stored energy for the front end. Are /6 bars better for the racing yes, but aren’t cheap. A good adjustable shock for the front would help. I run QA1 R’s single adjustable. Keeps a good bit of compression with bigger changes to extension. Not cheap though, but you can change settings easily without undoing the shock. Stock rear leaf springs unless they are toast. You can clamp the front section if you want, but a bodies have such a short front section they rarely hop, unless you have big power and very sticky tire. Don’t need pinion snubber. You can remove the rear spring clamps to let the leaf fan out.
         
      • furrystump

        furrystump Well-Known Member

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        I run 7.50 in the 1/8 with 1” over arch rear leafs, kyb rear shocks, original 340 torsion bars and QA1R’s in front. Nothing else
         
      • dugascarman

        dugascarman Member

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        What kind of work has been done to your drivetrain with you turning 7.50s? If you dont mind me asking. Thanks!
         
      • dugascarman

        dugascarman Member

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        Thanks for the advice! The car already has been upgraded to big bolt pattern disc on the fronts and will be putting stronger axles in the rear. Even with the car being mini tubbed you wouldnt recommend more than a 28x9x15? I was going to try a 28x10.5x15 and see how that works. Planned on putting super stock springs in when I find some and have a pinion snubber right at home. How big should the plate be on the floor? Just about the size of the top of the snubber? And what company do you recommend for the adjustable shocks? Thank you!:steering:
         
      • JBurch

        JBurch Well-Known Member

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        I'll say this, in my 65 Barracuda, I ran as quick as 6.94's on a 275/60x15 M/T drag radial in the 1/8th and 11.10 in the 1/4 on 28/9x15 Hoosiers . You can run the 28/10.5x15's if you want, I'm just saying you don't need them to get where you want to go.

        6x6
        QA1's, Competition Engineering are 2 possibilities
         
      • furrystump

        furrystump Well-Known Member

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        The motor is a 360 based 4” stroker, stock 340 intake with the divider cut down, ported x heads by Dwayne Porter, stock 340 exhaust manifolds, cam is solid flat tappet lift .555-.558. 800 eddy thunder avs, cope racing 727, PTC 9.5” converter flashes to about 3400 rpm, 4:10 rear gear and f-70 14 redline reproduction rear tire. 60’s are about 1.76
         
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        • flyfish

          flyfish C8H18+N2O = :-D

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          My Barracuda is also mini tubbed, and I ran Hoosier Quick Time Pro's 28x11.5x15's for a lot of years. I switched to Hoosier 275/60/R15 drag radials about 5 years ago and have never looked back. The are much more stable at high speed and have no "slick shake" on the big end. Yes, a 9 inch slick is all you need (and would work very well)....but with the mini-tub a 10.5 tire just looks SICK, not to mention that if track conditions get bad (like mid summer), you might be glad you have a little more tire. Just my 2 nickels on the subject.
           
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