7260 U-Joint girdle???

[fishy68]

I'm getting my car dialed in and I believe when I get some slicks on it it'll be in the mid 12 sec. range. When I was underneath it measuring the pinion angle the other day it dawned on me I still have the stock bolt and strap type u-joint retainers. I'm concerned they may not hold up to slicks. I looked on Summit's site for u-joint girdles and something don't seem right there. They list the Moroso 85850 being 1.505 center to center using a .780 u-joint cup. Jegs shows it being a 1.505 center to center with a 1.0625 cup which is much closer to what I measured. But neither are exactly what I measured. I measured the cup diameter at 1.075 and the spacing between retaining bolts at 1.52 but the spacing measurement was pretty hard to do in the car so I could have been off some on that one.

I do know I have the smaller 7260 U-joint. Can anybody confirm the cup diameter and bolt spacing on it?

Thanks, Tracy

 

[USCG CHARGER]

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[64ragtop]

I would be interested in the answer to the original question. I haven't measured or researched this topic, but looking at those strap-type retainers does not inspire confidence. I would think something more rigid, looking more like a main bearing cap would handle lots more torque. That's the kind of stuff I want to learn here as I look forward to building my project Dart.

 

[fishy68]

I would be interested in the answer to the original question. I haven't measured or researched this topic, but looking at those strap-type retainers does not inspire confidence. I would think something more rigid, looking more like a main bearing cap would handle lots more torque. That's the kind of stuff I want to learn here as I look forward to building my project Dart.

That's exacty what I was thinking. The straps look pretty flimsy to be propelling a 3600 lb. car in the 12's. I still haven't found a deffinate answer. Looks like all the girdles are the wrong size but the Moroso 85050 is the closest. I'm going to order one and see if me and my buddy with the lathe can open it up .015 more. The bolt spacing is right. Just the cap i.d. of the girdle is .0155 small. I'll post it back here in about a week what the outcome is.

 

[jimbo]

I had the same question for my 65 cuda 340. It kept loosening up. I put the girdle on last summer, havent had a problem since. You will need to drill through the rear yoke with the supplied bolts, pretty good setup.

 

[fishy68]

I had the same question for my 65 cuda 340. It kept loosening up. I put the girdle on last summer, havent had a problem since. You will need to drill through the rear yoke with the supplied bolts, pretty good setup.

Hi Jimbo welcome to the board.

I haven't had any problem with them loosening up. I'm just worried they won't take the torque once I put sticky tires on it. Back when I was a kid I ripped one apart and now I'm leary anytime I get a car with the stock straps and alot of power.

Do you remember what girdle you bought? That's my hold up. I can't find one with the exact right dimensions. If I can't find the exact right one I found one real close and I'm going to order it and see if me and a buddy of mine that has a lathe can open it up a little.

 

[jimbo]

I got the Moroso unit from Jegs. I believe there or only 2 sizes, for the 2 sizes of u joints mopar makes. It looked a little small but it fit perfect.
Moroso 85850, CTC 1.505
Cap Dia.1.0625
Item# 710-85850
This is for the 8.75 w/ small yoke. 489 case.

 

[fishy68]

Thanks for the info Jimbo. I just ordered one of the 85850's from Mancini's. I also have a 489 case with the small yoke so maybe I'll get lucky too and it'll fit without any mods. The only difference I can find is the Moroso is spec'd out at 1.0625 i.d. and my u-joint cap measures 1.078 o.d. That .0155 difference is what concerned me. If worse comes to worse I have a buddy with a lathe and I think we can open it up a little. I just got my order confirmation so I should know something by the end of the week and I'll post back how it turns out.

 

[Locomotion]

If you can afford to do it, I believe the best way to go is the billet steel yokes with u-bolts sold by Mancini, Mopar and some others. If everything is the way it should be, the straps hold fairly well. But I have found that if there are other problems, like wrong pinion angles, misalignments and even the OEM yoke actually spreading over time, it can fail. I had a yoke spread on me and caused the u-joint to hammer itself out. I got the steel billet yoke and use solid Spicer 7260 u-joint and no problems for years now.

When you have a driveline failure, it's usually difficult to figure out what actually caused it or broke first. But the "spreading" can be caught with periodic inspections by making sure there is no play developing between the yoke and snap rings with the rear jacked up and in neutral.

My car has run mid-high 11's at anywhere from 3,540 - 3,700 lbs+.

 

[fishy68]

If you can afford to do it, I believe the best way to go is the billet steel yokes with u-bolts sold by Mancini, Mopar and some others. If everything is the way it should be, the straps hold fairly well. But I have found that if there are other problems, like wrong pinion angles, misalignments and even the OEM yoke actually spreading over time, it can fail. I had a yoke spread on me and caused the u-joint to hammer itself out. I got the steel billet yoke and use solid Spicer 7260 u-joint and no problems for years now.

When you have a driveline failure, it's usually difficult to figure out what actually caused it or broke first. But the "spreading" can be caught with periodic inspections by making sure there is no play developing between the yoke and snap rings with the rear jacked up and in neutral.

My car has run mid-high 11's at anywhere from 3,540 - 3,700 lbs+.

Thanks for the recommendations Myron. Unfortunately right now I can't afford to go with the billet pieces. I measured the 2 yokes I have and one is spread a little like you mentioned. The other (the one I'm using) measures right on.

I won't be racing much this year. It's mostly a street car that I plan on taking to the track a few times. I believe since I'm not going to be racing it much I'll be ok this year. rayer: I'm saving up to rebuild a 742 chunk I have and by next winter it'll be ready to go in. When I do it I plan on going with the billet pieces so it will be bulletproof. I'll also check into the solid Spicers you mentioned.