727 kickdown band adjustment and oil capacity

[trebor75]

I was doing some work under the car on my 727 and noticed something about the throttle pressure lever (kickdown lever on the transmission).
When removing the linkage and moving the lever by hand I don't need to apply any pressure at all to move it at first (moving it by hand towards the back of the car).
Only after moving it a bit I can feel something like a spring engaging and then when releasing it it moves it back some.
It feels like it is a bit of slack. Is this normal? Could it be that I need to adjust the kickdown band and that play will dissapear? I was gonna adjust the bands anyway. But this got me curious, and I'm new to working on transmissions. It's a 74-74 727 and when searching the serial it appears to also be called Hvy Duty.

Been doing some reading and what I have found is the band is initially adjusted to 72 inch/pounds and then backed off two full turns. Does this sound right? I doubt I'll be able to get a torque wrench up there on the side of the trans though.

Also, I'm suspecting I might have the wrong dipstick. What would you say is the oil capacity for a 727 with normal depth pan and a 10" converter? I think I might have been overfilling it.

Thanks!

 

[RattyBarracuda]

The throttle lever in the outside of the transmission makes contact with the throttle valve in the valve body of the transmission. It never contacts the band.

I believe the spec on the throttle valve adjustment on the valve body is .625" or .624" between the arm and throttle valve, with the valve compressed into the valve body.

If the slack is excessive before you feel spring pressure its possible that the valve is stuck or sticking.

Your adjustment at the band is about right. You'd have to check the FSM for the exact spec.

Adjustment of the band will not change the feel of the throttle valve.

 

[trebor75]

The throttle lever in the outside of the transmission makes contact with the throttle valve in the valve body of the transmission. It never contacts the band.

I believe the spec on the throttle valve adjustment on the valve body is .625" or .624" between the arm and throttle valve, with the valve compressed into the valve body.

If the slack is excessive before you feel spring pressure its possible that the valve is stuck or sticking.

Your adjustment at the band is about right. You'd have to check the FSM for the exact spec.

Adjustment of the band will not change the feel of the throttle valve.

Thank you for explaining that, much appreciated. So after reading your explanation, am I i right to think there should be some slack? .625" is about 15mm (mm is easier for me as a swede to understand). Or am I understanding this wrong?

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

I was doing some work under the car on my 727 and noticed something about the throttle pressure lever (kickdown lever on the transmission).
When removing the linkage and moving the lever by hand I don't need to apply any pressure at all to move it at first (moving it by hand towards the back of the car).
Only after moving it a bit I can feel something like a spring engaging and then when releasing it it moves it back some.
It feels like it is a bit of slack. Is this normal? Could it be that I need to adjust the kickdown band and that play will dissapear? I was gonna adjust the bands anyway. But this got me curious, and I'm new to working on transmissions. It's a 74-74 727 and when searching the serial it appears to also be called Hvy Duty.

Been doing some reading and what I have found is the band is initially adjusted to 72 inch/pounds and then backed off two full turns. Does this sound right? I doubt I'll be able to get a torque wrench up there on the side of the trans though.

Also, I'm suspecting I might have the wrong dipstick. What would you say is the oil capacity for a 727 with normal depth pan and a 10" converter? I think I might have been overfilling it.

Thanks!

There should be some slack before you feel the spring pressure. Most stock setups have way too much slack. I have modified lots of valve bodies using the Fairbanks shift kit. This kit is excellent! After removing the valve body This kit shows to tighten the kickdown arm so putting a 1/8" drill bit just fits between the arm and valve. This mod makes the kickdown action much more responsive. If you can get the kit and reprogram the valve body including a few other mods for the servos. You will be glad you did.

 

[trebor75]

There should be some slack before you feel the spring pressure. Most stock setups have way too much slack. I have modified lots of valve bodies using the Fairbanks shift kit. This kit is excellent! After removing the valve body This kit shows to tighten the kickdown arm so putting a 1/8" drill bit just fits between the arm and valve. This mod makes the kickdown action much more responsive. If you can get the kit and reprogram the valve body including a few other mods for the servos. You will be glad you did.

Vey interesting. Thanks for the input!

 

[RattyBarracuda]

Also...4 to 6 quarts on a drain and refill with a stock depth pan.

 

[trebor75]

Also...4 to 6 quarts on a drain and refill with a stock depth pan.

Thanks

 

[68Bee]

Tighten the band hand tight with a normal short 5/16” wrench, then back off the 2 turns. The short wrench will be real close to 72in-lbs torque.

 

[trebor75]

Tighten the band hand tight with a normal short 5/16” wrench, then back off the 2 turns. The short wrench will be real close to 72in-lbs torque.

Thanks. I can actually reach both bands with my small torque wrench. I read in so many places to back the adjusting screw back 2 to 2.5 turns so I backed it of 2.25 turns. A happy medium.

 

[68Bee]

One of these days when nothing to do; use the wrench one-handed and then put your torque wrench on it. You’ll be surprised how close it is.

 

[trebor75]

One of these days when nothing to do; use the wrench one-handed and then put your torque wrench on it. You’ll be surprised how close it is.

I actually did it today. The car is still up on jack stands. I was so curious. You are right

 

[trebor75]

Another question. I don't have a stock oil pan, I never had. I have a chrome TCI Replacement Steel Transmission Pan. I don't like the chrome at all, but you'd be surprised how hard it is to get a decent pan here in Sweden.

I'm thinking I might scuff up the gasket surface lightly with a scotch brite or a very fine sand paper to get it to seal better. Is this a good or bad idea? I have a Mopar Performance Cork/Rubber gasket. It's a bit thicker gasket.

 

[68Bee]

Scotch brite should be fine, don’t over torque.