727 kickdown lever which one is correct
- Thread starter Heywodja
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
The one on the right because the lokar cable end uses that linkage hole for it's connection point.
The correct arm will be the one that matches your throttle travel: butterflies closed to wide open. That lever when mounted on the shaft, when you have the Lokar adjusted correctly, should be gently pushed back just against the kickdown valve in the valve body, but not moving the valve, at closed throttle, and when you press the throttle to wide open that kickdown lever should go all the way back to it's end of travel. I think the Lokar instructions clearly state how it should be adjusted. You may need a different lever with a ratio that matched your chosen carb.
The one on the left is like what I used. Mine came from a 46rh trans from a 1994 dodge ram. They used a kickdown cable and it conveniently had the ball stud already on it. I questioned it since nobody has ever mentioned using it, so I called up A&A transmission and told them I used a demon carb, 727, and a lokar cable. They sent me the correct lever and it's the EXACT same piece I already had.
Exactly. I installed the Lokar kickdown on a 727, using a Demon Street carb. The old lever I had was off a slant six 1-bbl carb/727 setup. I tried drilling a new hole on the lever to give me the right ratio, , no go. I cut the lever and rewelded it. There are levers available which would be the easier route. You want a lever that the carb throttle travel will push all the way back yet at closed throttle the lever rests in the proper position.
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Would the offset on the mount for the shaft be just as much a factor as the length of the pivot?
How hard can it be? Just see which one works best and make it work. Not like you're doin brain surgery. It's a lever. Two levers to be exact. You'll get it.
All that matters is the distance between the two centers (the hole that fits on the shaft and where the cable connects) The lever positioning on the shaft only would shorten or lengthen the kickfown cable or rod. Of course it will function best if at half travel it is at 90° to the cable
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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In a streeter, with a shortage of low-rpm torque;a lot times if the pull-point is too close to the pivot, then the trans is forever kicking down. So then You spend a lot of time dicking with the TV pressure or or the governor pressure, to get it where you like it. When it would be easier to play with the pull-point.
Same goes if it chirps the tires on every shift, at light throttle.
So perhaps start with the long one. And if you don't like the delayed kickdown, then move to the short one. And if you..... well you get the picture.
But if you have a shift kit installed per the directions, then I think you will like the short 904 one,even more so if you're running it in full-manual mode.
Otherwise : what TB or Rusty said.
Same goes if it chirps the tires on every shift, at light throttle.
So perhaps start with the long one. And if you don't like the delayed kickdown, then move to the short one. And if you..... well you get the picture.
But if you have a shift kit installed per the directions, then I think you will like the short 904 one,even more so if you're running it in full-manual mode.
Otherwise : what TB or Rusty said.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
It’s still possible u have the wrong lever. There is a few different length 1s. Urs are 1968 and earlier and 72 up B C and truck. A bodies have a flat lever unless u have the newer style. Kim
I am working on my 73 challenger, doing a 440 swap.. Pretty sure I will need to work on this as part of the final tuning..
Thanks
Then the 1 on the right should work for u. What do u have for the kd linkage now as the chally uses the 2 piece. Kim
Great, good luck 2 ya. Kim
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