727 Leak Inside Bellhousing

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Just looked under the car. Not 1 drip since last night at 9:30pm. So definitely only leaks while running, unless, being a used converter, could someone have used a flex plate bolt too long and damaged the converter? Did I by chance have that hole "up" and that is why it didn't leak? Running low on thoughts.
 
The converter can have a hairline crack or leaky weld. Some torque flights the fluid need to be checked hot and in neutral. I dunno why this is what I remember :)
basically you can think its topped off, when it gets warmed up it is actually over full.
 
I don't know if it's my old eyes or what, but I seem to have more trouble reading dipsticks, now, than I did a couple of decades ago. It seems to take more tries and now looking at both sides of the dipstick to get a valid reading.
If you pull the pump to reseal it, you'll need to get some new sealing washers for the pump bolts, or at the very least put a small dab of rtv under the head of the bolts.
 
Well, I pulled trans out today, while waiting for UPS with new parts, I examined the trans close. There was a leak run of fluid from the front seal. So I changed the seal, and once UPS delivered (2pm) I put in the new B&M holeshot converter and B&M external balanced SFI flexplate, installed trans and took for a 10 mile drive. No Leaks!! Pic of the leak... my assumption is the converter snout was worn..

20210514_115816~3.jpg
 
Well, I ended up getting an externally balanced B&M SFI flexplate and 2400 stall. That better fit the 2.94s for the trip. I do have a 3000 on the shelf, but this compliments the engine and new cause rpm well. I can always go to 3000 if/when the 3.91s go back in. I have to admit, the cuise rpm is so much better now, less high strung...
 
I feared the heat build up if too high of a stall vs cruise rpm. I didnt want it in a partial slip for 10 hours of driving (round trip).
 
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