74 Duster 11.75 rotors

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Steve Agrella said:
Will going with drilled and slotted rotors make much of difference over the stock rotors using the stock calipers
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None, zero, zip, unless your racing. There designed to stay cooler in the heat of competition. Rush hour traffic does seem like so but it is not nor is having fun with your buddies. Just don’t say, “Hey! Watch this ****!” And you’ll be fine. (LMAO!)
 
I went with EBC green brake pads a bit dusty but they work really well, so well I will never use another brake pad , pricey though. I imagine with the larger rotor it’s got get better
 
Good mention about a quality brake pad Steve.
 
If I remember the math right, I believe just going from the 10.95” to the 11.75” rotors works out to about a 8% improvement in braking force. It’s not gigantic, but it absolutely makes a difference.

If you have ‘73-‘75 A-body calipers they also have a 2.6” piston, the ‘76 calipers, and all the B/E/F/J/M/R use 2.75” pistons. So going to the 2.75” piston calipers also increases your braking force a bit.

EBC Greens are an organic pad, so, if you’re not overheating those with anything you’re doing you probably won’t see much if any benefit to using drilled and slotted rotors either. That stuff is for heat dissipation, so if you’re already not overheating anything then it’s not going to change much.
 
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I own two Mazda’s, one is a Mazda 6 Grand Touring the other is a Mazda 3, changed both cars to drilled and slotted rotors and green pads, the difference is night and day from the OEM pafs.
The reason that I did this on both cars was because of the stop and go traffic in California is a nightmare,.
Both cars were suffering from warped rotors from the heat, after the change which was maybe close to a year no more warped rotors and the cars stop on a dime.
The rotors I used were same as stock dia, the brake feel and the stopping power of the new setup really is quite amazing.
 
Most slotted or drilled rotors using new brake pads are for venting out-gasses, not really sure how much that really works when new brake pad designs don't produce much out-gas.

I can tell you that slotted and drilled rotors might stop slightly better by chewing on the pads more. But I've also had drilled rotors crack. I really heated the brakes up once, stopped my car and jumped out and when I was walking away I heard a metallic "PING". Instantly I thought it was the rotor but didn't see anything most likely because it cracked right where the pads were on the rotor... but when I jumped back in the car to experience a severe shake. When I pulled back in, I saw the rotor cracked right through the drilled holes.

And if you don't run a brake pad designed for slotted or drilled rotors the hole chamfer's and slots can plug up with brake dust and cause your brakes to shimmy. The wrong pads are the ones that when you go to wipe the dust off your rims and it seems stuck on. Those are usually the pads that will plug up the holes and slots. Then you will have to take the rotor off and re-chamfer the burnt pad out of the holes or scrape out the slots when you feel the shimmy start.

High dust pads usually stop better but can also produce so much dust it gets everywhere, won't allow the caliper piston's to retract. And if you have caliper slider pins, those can get so dusty the caliper will stick more to one side. So blow them off with a air hose often. If you are running steel rims with hub caps you might not see the dust and it makes the cleaning the calipers a bit harder.
 
Steve Agrella said:
I own two Mazda’s, one is a Mazda 6 Grand Touring the other is a Mazda 3, changed both cars to drilled and slotted rotors and green pads, the difference is night and day from the OEM pafs.
The reason that I did this on both cars was because of the stop and go traffic in California is a nightmare,.
Both cars were suffering from warped rotors from the heat, after the change which was maybe close to a year no more warped rotors and the cars stop on a dime.
The rotors I used were same as stock dia, the brake feel and the stopping power of the new setup really is quite amazing.
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Oh no doubt the green stuff pads are better than OEM, they’re much better. They’re still an organic pad, that’s all. In general organic pads don’t hold up super well with higher brake temperatures, although I know the green stuff pads do better than most organics.

I’m well aware of traffic issues and stop and go use, I’m in California too. I run semi-metallic pads on my cars, they withstand higher brake temperatures better in my car experience. I ran drilled and slotted 11.75’s with semi-metallic pads on my Challenger for over 70k miles, it worked great even on the larger car. The semi-metallic pads do wear the rotors faster, but I still managed 70k with the same rotors and only one pad change. But the drilled and slotted rotors are really only necessary to cool the brakes faster, so if you’re not having heat fade issues they’re not really a necessity. They don’t really hurt anything either, at least not anything night and day compared to conventional rotors.
 
I’m going with the Red stuff pads on the Duster with Dr Differential 11.75 rotors and adapters.
Running 500 ponies in that car, probably going to the rear also
 
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