74 Duster

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John Cailey

John Cailey

Crizila
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
279
Reaction score
168
Location
Payson, Az
This is my "Pull-a-part" 74 Duster. Arizona rust free body - and trashed just about everything else. Sooooo, started by tackling the drive train and suspension. Engine ( 225 Slant / 904 ) starts and runs ok ( #4 hole is about 25 lbs down on the comp check ) after going through the ignition and rebuilding the carb. Trans shifts ok - has a leak from the shifter shaft. Went through the entire front suspension. Had to go with offset upper A arm bushings to get the camber in spec. Interior was completely trashed ( lovely Az heat ), so it is now completely stripped out. All the glass is out save for the rear window, which will be out tomorrow - as will the dash. This car will need ALL new soft parts - seals / moldings /head liner / rug / etc. I'm getting close to tackling the body work. I will do all the body parts that can be removed ( hood, frt fenders, doors, trunk lid ) on horses. Although the plan right now is to stay with the slant motor, I'm toying with welding in some subframe connectors while everything is out of the car? This car was only days from the crusher in the Pull-a-part yard. I think I had a weak moment. :lol:
duster1.jpg


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Southwest cars are often rock solid with crispy interiors. Northeast cars are rusted though but have nice door panels and dash pads.
What would YOU rather replace? Floor panels and frame rails or seats, carpet and door panels?
 
Check with Tony in the vendor section. I have purchased lots of part from him. He is under the FABO Sponsor Forums. Post a list of needed outside hard parts. I am in the valley a 90 minute drive from you. The back corner of the garage has some parts.
 
That looks pretty nice for a close to the crusher car.
I'm about an hour or so north west of ya in Prescott.
 
good looking body! score for sure!

I am always amazed at the people in the N E that will not pay shipping for these kind of bodies!!? luckily I have never had to live in the N E ! must be why I am poor!? ha
 
340fourspeedDuster said:
Check with Tony in the vendor section. I have purchased lots of part from him. He is under the FABO Sponsor Forums. Post a list of needed outside hard parts. I am in the valley a 90 minute drive from you. The back corner of the garage has some parts.
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Thanks. I'll make a list. Off the top of my head, car needs a front bumper, door panels, A & B piller moldings, dash pad of course, dash gauge bezel, some wiper linkage parts ( I'll know more once I get the dash out ), Any and all hood release linkage / cable parts, Glove box - box, hood and left front fender will need body work unless I can find better used. This car came with factory A/C. Lines between the condenser and the compressor / expansion valve / receiver-dryer are missing. Both the condenser and evaporator hold a vacuum, so I think they are reusable. Verdict is out on the compressor. I am still in the disassembly mode, so I'm sure my need list will grow.
 
I have the F&B bumpers, dash gauges, wheel well trim, bottom chrome trim that ran under the doors and some other stuff.
 
340fourspeedDuster said:
I have the F&B bumpers, dash gauges, wheel well trim, bottom chrome trim that ran under the doors and some other stuff.
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I'm interested in the frt bumper. Condition? $? Actually, all the gauges worked in this car. Unfortunately, some one tried to crowbar them out of the dash ( reminder - junk yard car ). What I need is the gauge cluster panel.

gauges.jpg
 
John
Sorry for the delay. I will be out at the garage and get a front bumper pic for you this week end. As I recall, it is in good condition.
 
John Cailey said:
This is my "Pull-a-part" 74 Duster. Arizona rust free body - and trashed just about everything else. Sooooo, started by tackling the drive train and suspension. Engine ( 225 Slant / 904 ) starts and runs ok ( #4 hole is about 25 lbs down on the comp check ) after going through the ignition and rebuilding the carb. Trans shifts ok - has a leak from the shifter shaft. Went through the entire front suspension. Had to go with offset upper A arm bushings to get the camber in spec. Interior was completely trashed ( lovely Az heat ), so it is now completely stripped out. All the glass is out save for the rear window, which will be out tomorrow - as will the dash. This car will need ALL new soft parts - seals / moldings /head liner / rug / etc. I'm getting close to tackling the body work. I will do all the body parts that can be removed ( hood, frt fenders, doors, trunk lid ) on horses. Although the plan right now is to stay with the slant motor, I'm toying with welding in some subframe connectors while everything is out of the car? This car was only days from the crusher in the Pull-a-part yard. I think I had a weak moment. :lol:View attachment 1715052805

View attachment 1715052806

View attachment 1715052808
Click to expand...
John Cailey said:
This is my "Pull-a-part" 74 Duster. Arizona rust free body - and trashed just about everything else. Sooooo, started by tackling the drive train and suspension. Engine ( 225 Slant / 904 ) starts and runs ok ( #4 hole is about 25 lbs down on the comp check ) after going through the ignition and rebuilding the carb. Trans shifts ok - has a leak from the shifter shaft. Went through the entire front suspension. Had to go with offset upper A arm bushings to get the camber in spec. Interior was completely trashed ( lovely Az heat ), so it is now completely stripped out. All the glass is out save for the rear window, which will be out tomorrow - as will the dash. This car will need ALL new soft parts - seals / moldings /head liner / rug / etc. I'm getting close to tackling the body work. I will do all the body parts that can be removed ( hood, frt fenders, doors, trunk lid ) on horses. Although the plan right now is to stay with the slant motor, I'm toying with welding in some subframe connectors while everything is out of the car? This car was only days from the crusher in the Pull-a-part yard. I think I had a weak moment. :lol:View attachment 1715052805

View attachment 1715052806

View attachment 1715052808
Click to expand...
 
Between excessive heat and 40 plus years of butchery, only one way to deal with wiring in this condition - replace ALL of it. Bit the bullet and bought a "Painless" 21 circuit system. What you see is just the engine compartment wiring. Under dash isn't much better. Someone please tell me what these two components are. Thanks, John

underhood wiring.jpg


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component2.jpg
 
Nice little kit from Schumacher. Supplied Zerks worked great to lube the shafts. Be prepared to use a little elbow grease to get the seals to slide over the wiper arm posts. Dish soap suggestion worked ok. Make sure you put the gaskets on before the seals.

wiper arm rebuild.jpg
 
I have these in the Apache Junction area. 1975 gauge set, all worked when removed. 1975 Front bumper with channel and nuts, no shocks.

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John Cailey said:
Between excessive heat and 40 plus years of butchery, only one way to deal with wiring in this condition - replace ALL of it. Bit the bullet and bought a "Painless" 21 circuit system. What you see is just the engine compartment wiring. Under dash isn't much better. Someone please tell me what these two components are. Thanks, John Ok, just finished my total rewire with the "Painless" wiring kit. No, it aint painless. After 40 + years of replacement T/S , ignition, headlight, and assorted other switches, a lot of the colors didn't match up. Had to use a magnifying glass to read some of the 18 gauge wire printing. Ended up with about 4 wires that I didn't know where they were supposed to go. Kit came with a new single ballast. The 74 came with a dual ballast. Ignition modules are different for both, so I ended up using my dual ballast over again. I opted to use the heavy duty alternator wiring ( 70 amp fuse) system as the car had already been modified with a large GM alternator (internal regulated) - of unknown amp output. Kit came with an awesome wire wrap kit - which I used most of. Here are some before and after pics. Keep in mind that I still have some minor wire routing to do.
wiring1.jpg
painless1.jpg
Click to expand...

wiring2.jpg


painless4.jpg


wiring3.jpg
 
From the wipers the hose runs through the firewall down to the foot pump. From the foot pump follow the hose through the firewall grommet to the washer bottle.
 
rumblefish360 said:
From the wipers the hose runs through the firewall down to the foot pump. From the foot pump follow the hose through the firewall grommet to the washer bottle.
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Ya, I got that much. I need to know the routing along the cowl area. If you look at the second pic, the hose coming from the pump is lying next to the top of the resivior. I believe it attaches to a fitting just to the right of the first clamp ( broken in my case and not much left to look at ). I believe this broken fitting had 3 ports. One was for the line next to the top of the resevoir and the other two went to the left and right squirters. ???? I can't find any in tact pics to look at. I had to free up the check ball in the pump outlet port and then I got the pump to work properly.
 
John Cailey said:
Ya, I got that much. I need to know the routing along the cowl area. If you look at the second pic, the hose coming from the pump is lying next to the top of the resivior. I believe it attaches to a fitting just to the right of the first clamp ( broken in my case and not much left to look at ). I believe this broken fitting had 3 ports. One was for the line next to the top of the resevoir and the other two went to the left and right squirters. ???? I can't find any in tact pics to look at. I had to free up the check ball in the pump outlet port and then I got the pump to work properly.
Click to expand...
Found the part I needed on E-bag for $10.
 
340fourspeedDuster said:
Ahh the wonderful EBay!
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Ya, a lot of stuff was just plain missing on this car when I bought it. Hood release cable for one. I bought a new one, but have no idea how it is routed ( from the hole in the firewall ? to the hood latch ). Also the 2 vacuum lines that run from the engine through the firewall to the heater / AC dash controls. Again, no idea where they go through the firewall hole ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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